• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Evaluating a 5-ton for value?

R3Fab

Member
66
83
18
Location
Nevada, USA
The hoarder I work for part-time has asked me to help sell some of his stash.
Among the mass of wrecks and hulks sits a five-ton that "Ran when parked".
Not sure of the model, set up as a tractor, soft top cab.
Pretty much rust free as it's been kept in the dry Nevada desert.
Soft parts such as upholstery are long gone.
If the market will support a price he will accept I will post it to the for sale board.
I have no idea what he will want for it, I do expect it to run and will no doubt get the job of making that happen. Fortunate that diesels seem to be more tolerant of sitting than gas trucks.
Need an idea of fair market value, assuming a running engine and probable need of brake work.
This will not be a drive it home vehicle, tires are gone due to age and exposure.
 

Attachments

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,308
893
113
Location
Fargo ND
R3fab this truck looks rather crispy being out in the sun and other elements for so long, but should have little to no rust? In looking at the truck it looks to be a haul away unless a buyer is willing to spend some time attempting to get the truck running, that is going to potentially a bit involved, then you come to other realities, every seal and gasket on the truck is going to dried and hard, tires are done, batteries are done, there is no spare, is the soft top in there somewhere? I as a buyer would want to see the engine run or that is going to greatly effect what I am going to offer. Lets say the engine is running and I can hear it run, the clutch works and the trans feels good, the transfer case appears to be operating correctly and I would offer you 2K for the truck. buying the truck as is I am going to assume the worst and the best I would give would be 800.00 the only unknown in this case is what I can see and there is a thousand unknowns based on what I cannot see!
It would pay greatly to spend a bit of time to at least get the truck running!
Good luck
Karl
 

R3Fab

Member
66
83
18
Location
Nevada, USA
In a couple of weeks it will become my task to get it running.
Dry climate helps a lot.
Not certain how long the hoarder will remain in the mood to sell.
I think he's overextended himself at the moment.
I know he will not let go of any generators or mobile kitchens.
Not sure if there would be any interest here in some of the non-Mil stash?
There is a giant antique Gardner-Denver air compressor as used in mining for air drills.
It uses a pony motor to start the diesel which drives a massive compressor.
A mobile crane that "runs" but has a broken drive axle and bad upholstery.
An earth mover that runs, not sure what it is called but is so large the wheels have to be removed to truck it.
Hundreds of items, all of which need some repair even if they are being driven daily.
As I said, a hoarder, not the same as a collector!
 

GopherHill

Well-known member
474
1,250
93
Location
Thomaston, TX
Best prime the oiling system well before cranking that Continental. Bad stuff happens with dry bearings. You will have enough problems with other things.
 

GopherHill

Well-known member
474
1,250
93
Location
Thomaston, TX
You can use a pump bug sprayer. Cut the end off the wand, use some fuel line, clamps, and a fitting that will screw in the oil pressure sender hole. Use 2 or 3 quarts of oil. Pump up the sprayer and put the pressurized oil in the engine. You won't disturb the ignition timing. Best use a cheap new sprayer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cwc

Dirt71

Well-known member
490
738
93
Location
Jacksonville, Florida
Bug sprayer is not gonna work, all you would accomplish is filling the oil pan with what ever oil that is in the bug sprayer. The oil sending unit is the first place the oil goes when the engine is running and there is no check valve between the 2 of them which would result in the oil taking the path of least resistance back to the oil pan. What I have done in the past is pull all the spark plug's, put the batteries in and spin the engine over that way and you will build oil pressure in 5 or 10 second's...one more word of advise is to install a battery switch (disconnect)... the starter solenoid on that truck is the same as on the M125 10 Ton Gasser it is mounted on the inside of the frame rail behind the batteries, I was trying to free up a stuck engine by pushing on the starter button on the floor when the solenoid got stuck and it was all I could do to disconnect the batteries with a wrench in a panic before it burned up the positive lead from the battery to the starter and the starter....you can also remove the solenoid and disassemble it, check for corrosion , clean, reassemble and reinstall...no picnic getting to it.
 

R3Fab

Member
66
83
18
Location
Nevada, USA
My first step is going to be pulling the plugs and squirting some Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder.
Let sit for a couple of days before even thinking of cranking it over.
Let me confirm, 24V?

Will also try to examine the carb for dry gaskets, check that linkage moves freely, etc.

Clutch is hydraulic or mechanical?

I hate to see it just sit, so hoping I can get it to run and moved to a better home.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 98G

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,715
3,845
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
If that R6602 engine runs (and they usually do), it might be a real item if not used for lots of travel. A beautifully engineered engine, from the era of truck road motors before Diesels took over. 7 main bearings, some were fitted with chrome cylinders and soft rings, sodium-filled valves and Stellite seats, eTc.

It will be thirsty (4 to 5 MPG), but makes a boatload of torque and will move that truck down the road just fine. Besides, the exhaust sound of that big 602 cubic inch is really special today.

Just saying, as there aren't too many left in the wild. And one could nuts-and-bolts swap the 5-speed straight for the 5-sp OD trans from a multifuel and pick up a bit better road speed and mileage.

DG
 
  • Like
Reactions: 98G

R3Fab

Member
66
83
18
Location
Nevada, USA
Been out of town for a few days. 1200 mile drive to help a proverbial "Little old lady" reach her old home town and favored doctors for medical care.
Only to find the air too thick with smoke for her comfort/safety. So now will probably be driving her back much sooner than originally planned.
Hopefully my schedule will return to normal soon.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
1,265
633
113
Location
Mesa, AZ
Definitely a gas job. Haven't seen one for 30 years but I believe their is a hand priming feature on the fuel pump. Definitely have to flush the fuel system to get this to run. As built they have a 24v electric system with 2 6TA batteries mounted under the passenger's side of the cab.
 

R3Fab

Member
66
83
18
Location
Nevada, USA
Hey man, did you ever get the R6602 fired up?
Not yet, been busy trying to get a home loan so that I may work on some of my own projects.
Being told that it has little value in unrestored condition is not inspiring to put a lot of time and $$$ into it.
 

Dirt71

Well-known member
490
738
93
Location
Jacksonville, Florida
Not yet, been busy trying to get a home loan so that I may work on some of my own projects.
Being told that it has little value in unrestored condition is not inspiring to put a lot of time and $$$ into it.
I wish it was closer, I would buy it, love the old 5ton gasser's!!
 
Top