Ever see inside the Protective Control Box?

[simp5782]

So is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?

I will send it to you here shortly. Message me your email address

 

[Thomas18Z]

I just finished rebuilding my PCB, two brand new solenoids, and got rid of the circuit board. The truck fires right up now(no more beating on the box with a hammer).
I'll post pictures of it a little later on. I pretty much followed what a few others have done on here. I'm glad I didn't spend $150-200 buying a new one.

How did you bypass (get rid of) the circuit board specifically?

 

[Thomas18Z]

I will send it to you here shortly. Message me your email address

Thx so much! Hoping this can be done w/out diodes?

containersne@gmail.com

 

[simp5782]

Thx so much! Hoping this can be done w/out diodes?

containersne@gmail.com

Yes. Do you have a modern gear reduction starter or the stock unit?

 

[Thomas18Z]

I also had a question about your 59 sec Youtube vid on 'Fuel screw and aneroid adjustment'.

1. When you say, turn fuel screw 3 turns... is that actually 3x 360 degree full turns?
2. On the star wheel for pre-boost fuel, you say a couple clicks, but may need readjustment as necessary. How do you know when it is 'right?'
3. ... and while we're at it... this this DOES NOT like to start cold. I'm working through that issue now. I like the vid on the air nipple in fuel cap. How much pressure can you put to those tanks safely before they'll 'explode?' (M931A2 - dual tanks obviously)

 

[Thomas18Z]

Yes. Do you have a modern gear reduction starter or the stock unit?

I'm assuming it's the stock unit, as the rest of the truck is stock, but I don't know for sure.

 

[74M35A2]

So is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?

The small circuit board is there to prevent starter re-engagement on an already running engine. It looks at either AC output of the alternator or feed from an oil pressure switch. It can be eliminated. I’ll have to look at the schematic to do so. Give me a short amount of time, if listed in the P2P I’ll write back how to do so.

 

[Thomas18Z]

The small circuit board is there to prevent starter re-engagement on an already running engine. It looks at either AC output of the alternator or feed from an oil pressure switch. It can be eliminated. I’ll have to look at the schematic to do so. Give me a short amount of time, if listed in the P2P I’ll write back how to do so.

Here is what my current one looks like. Seems different than what others have in similar trucks?

 

[74M35A2]

You’ll basically be removing the circuit board and connecting the solenoids as they are in a PCB box without the circuit board. Simplistically, each solenoid is controlled from each dash switch. One for dash power and one for starter engagement.

You’ll want solenoids that are rated for 24V and 100% continuous duty cycle. You can remove the one for the starter if you switch to a gear reduction unit as its solenoid pulls much less power, but easiest to just rebuilt the PCB with 2 new solenoids and no circuit board.

 

[Thomas18Z]

You’ll basically be removing the circuit board and connecting the solenoids as they are in a PCB box without the circuit board. Simplistically, each solenoid is controlled from each dash switch. One for dash power and one for starter engagement.

You’ll want solenoids that are rated for 24V and 100% continuous duty cycle. You can remove the one for the starter if you switch to a gear reduction unit as its solenoid pulls much less power, but easiest to just rebuilt the PCB with 2 new solenoids and no circuit board.

I had ordered the CH 24063. I think I have it figured out. Thank you.

 

[Thomas18Z]

Here's my redone box:
View attachment 537847View attachment 537845View attachment 537844View attachment 537846
White wires are just grounds going to the case. I saw another one on here that just had the grounds daisy chained, but I don't like doing that. It's the amateur radio operator in me. Diodes are 1N5408. On the side with the 2 blue crimp on ring terminals, there is a piece of wire in there, it's just very short and the insulation from the ring terminal hides it...#6 copper. Solenoids I used are Cole Hersee 24063, 85 amp continuous duty. [h=1][/h]

Nice job with this... thx for posting pics.
Q: My original solenoids don't have the additional post that you have grounded with the white wires. They are single post only. Can you speak to that and also why you have diodes running between the two posts?

 

[simp5782]

Nice job with this... thx for posting pics.
Q: My original solenoids don't have the additional post that you have grounded with the white wires. They are single post only. Can you speak to that and also why you have diodes running between the two posts?

There are several variants. Some solenoids use an external post for ground some are grounded internally therefore when they are tack welded to the base they ground thru the mounting bolts to the truck rather than thru the wires in the other boxes.

Diodes are there in case of backfeed of power or someone hooking the batteries up backwards it blows the diode over burning the wire harness up.

 

[post 5466]

I'll have to go look at the circuit board to see what is on it and see if we can reverse engineer it. I'll post up pictures tomorrow of it, don't feel like going to grab it out of the garage now...work was exhausting today.

Anyone know where I can find a box for my 5 ton apparently cell annoyed, sticking something stay energized, draining you batteries and ABS light staying on

 

[post 5466]

Anyone know where I can find a box for my 5 ton apparently cell annoyed, sticking something stay energized, draining you batteries and ABS light staying on

Sorry, solenoid is sticking and draining batteries even after individually charged for brand new batteries 939 ABS truck

 

[juanprado]

The abs light could be a gizmo fried when your PCB failed but ABS has its own brain, sensors, and electronics separate than PCB. There is a diagnostics port by the passenger dash to pull code with a midland abs code reader.

 

[post 5466]

The abs light could be a gizmo fried when your PCB failed but ABS has its own brain, sensors, and electronics separate than PCB. There is a diagnostics port by the passenger dash to pull code with a midland abs code reader.

is that a midland GRAU ABS diagnostic reader

 

[juanprado]

I just Google that as I was not familiar. Not sure if it will work. I don't recall anyone posting about that one.

The military one is 24v and does not look like that.
Let me see if I can find a thread here or info to link to

 

[simp5782]

is that a midland GRAU ABS diagnostic reader

It's a haldex sn5000