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Exchanging the brake actuator pintle to ball

3dAngus

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I was wondering if anyone has tried the Northern Tool 2" ball brake actuator, or exchanged the pintle actuator for a 2" ball actuator. I will send a picture of the actual assembly from Northern tool and a link.

It seems this would be ideal for people who have the M101 series trailers but want to stick to the 2" ball rather than going with a pintle hitch assembly, but I don't know if it is compatible with the military version trailers. Of most concern would be the screw that plunges horizontally when brakes are applied, and if it would be the same size or not. It really seems cool, but have no idea if it is a fit. I'm going to Northern tool this afternoon to take a look while I pick up a bolt on pintle hitch/2" ball combo for retrofitting my tractor 3 point hitch for easy lift of all these multiple level trailers. No more getting out and making adjustments on levels while going from the M101 trailer to the M106 level, where it takes me about 25 minutes to get the level of the M106 just right to hitch on my pickup for moving. Hydraulics on the tractor are much quicker for moving around the yard. Anyway, here is the link and a quick picture for those interested.

Has anyone done this. Please report on problems and solutions if you have.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_757383_757383?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Pagehttp://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_757382_757382
 

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3dAngus

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Thanks gimpy. I've got that for the pickup end. I'm trying to rework the trailer end and keep the brakes, for resale purposes to those who want to keep the 2" ball. Some people don't like the pintle hitch and don't want it on their pickup. They are not MV guys. At least, that's what I've been up against, so I was wondering if this would work on the trailer.

BTW, I think I have some more new hoses for you. I had them in bins where I took all the new hoses as soon as I got the Laundry unit, and put them all in storage. Forgot all about these. These are longer hoses and new. You still need some?
 

gimpyrobb

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I never looked to swap out the hitch on the trailer. I would start be trying to remove the pintle, so you will know what will fit in it's place when you go shopping. I got the other hoses, a couple more would be nice. You going to Ga rally? I could pick them up there.

Thanks again.
 

3dAngus

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I plan on being there. I'll be taking more measurements at Northern tool this afternoon. Looks like it is for a 3" wide tongue frame. Going to measure the tongue on the trailer now.
 

porkysplace

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I would think changing a military trailer to a ball hitch would lower the value not increase it.
90 % of tow vehicles have reese style hitch mounts nowdays . It's cheaper and easier to get a pintle set that fits the receiver in the truck .

Edit ; the actuator you have pictured is for disc brakes and is not compatible with drum brakes , they have a check valve to hold pressure on the pads this will keep drum breaks from releasing.
 
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3dAngus

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According to the manual you disconnect the check valve for disk brakes.

"
WARNING - DISC BRAKE USE
When installing disc brakes to use with part #47200/86167 actuator, a check valve inside the actuator must be disabled. See disc
brake installation instructions. If you do not properly disable the check valve, pressure will remain in the system causing the disc
brakes to drag, overheat and fail. Part #47201/86165 actuator, has a disabled check valve for use on disc brakes - DO NOT use

part #47201/86165 on drum brakes."

On the resale value, it is all about what a person wants. I sold a M101A3 trailer yesterday to a guy who went out and bought a receiver for a pintle hitch. No problem.

But I could have sold that same trailer three times prior if it was a 2" ball. People don't want to be inconvenieced, so I'm trying to find a new way to make it easier for them. I like happy people when I sell them something.
Like I said, on these M101 series trailers, which are great for pickup trucks, these people are not your typical MVers we might see on this site.

Here's the full manual;
http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/128205.pdf
 
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Stretch44875

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I have two of these brake actuators, drum version. One is on an old pickup bed trailer, hooked to the original truck brakes. Other is on a car trailer with hydraulic brakes. Both of them I installed. They work just fine. I don't know what the trailer braking system is like on the MV trailers, if it is a non boosted hydraulic brake, then I would think it would work.
 

Ripcord01

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I would think changing a military trailer to a ball hitch would lower the value not increase it.
90 % of tow vehicles have reese style hitch mounts nowdays . It's cheaper and easier to get a pintle set that fits the receiver in the truck .

Edit ; the actuator you have pictured is for disc brakes and is not compatible with drum brakes , they have a check valve to hold pressure on the pads this will keep drum breaks from releasing.
Where are you buying your Pintle and plates from ? I spent more money on buying a new pintle hook and adjustable plate for my truck than it would cost to purchase the 2" ball conversion.

I would think it make the trailer more appealing and have better markability to others since, they would not have to convert anything to tow it. Most people can afford a 2" ball, comapred to a 60 dollar Pintle.
 

bob95065

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Pintle hitches are here: Tractor Supply

You can get a 10 ton hitch and a 7.5" mounting plate for $114.98 + tax.

I for one woudl rather have the lunette. It articulates better off-road, it is an OEM part so it looks and functions properly and I have a setup that will tow other military trailers behind my truck
 

porkysplace

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Where are you buying your Pintle and plates from ? I spent more money on buying a new pintle hook and adjustable plate for my truck than it would cost to purchase the 2" ball conversion.

I would think it make the trailer more appealing and have better markability to others since, they would not have to convert anything to tow it. Most people can afford a 2" ball, comapred to a 60 dollar Pintle.
You can pick-up the adapter and pintel for under a $100 ,a couple of the local trailer supply dealers usually have used ones complete for under $50 . You got $140 + shipping for the actuator shown above time and material to fab the mount , misc. parts to make it work . If you figure the cost of materials and your time you will have close to $ 300 in converting it.
 

Nonotagain

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As part of the lunette/brake assembly, the jack is attached. Too much time involved fabricating a custom mount to attach the surge coupler.

The OEM of the mil brake assembly sells a piece that replaces the lunette with a ball mount, but the cost is more than a Dico surge coupler.

The un-named auction site has a fair number of dealers that sell the combo pintos/ball hitches.

Easternmarine sells the rise plates for $60 or so.

Harborfreight no longer carries a pintle mount.
 

Ripcord01

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My Jack is attached to my frame, and swings up and down when you pull the pin! You turn the crank and it move the front of the trailer up and down. :jumpin: It sits on a plate that is attached to the frame ..So If I were to do the conversion; I would not have to change the jack. See pics.
 

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AMX

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I have seen them done. Isnt the m105a3 the same setup without the ball mount? I am thinking about doing this to one of my trailers anyway.
 

toddm

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I think I'll leave my hitch alone on my trailers, people get kinda quite when you tell them it is not a standard ball hitch. Plus I think it takes away from the original look of the trailer. This is just my 2cents not trying to knock anybodys ideas.
 

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Ripcord01

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I think I'll leave my hitch alone on my trailers, people get kinda quite when you tell them it is not a standard ball hitch. Plus I think it takes away from the original look of the trailer. This is just my 2cents not trying to knock anybodys ideas.
you should take that little chain and hook it to the tow hitch, that way if you loose the trailer the brake will lock..
 

3dAngus

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toddm, that is the way mine is and I'm happy with it too. I'm trying to do something different for people who don't like the pintle hitch on back kicking their wife's in the shin every time they go shopping.

It's going to be different for different people. Just trying to find a way to make even more people happy with the M101 trailers.

Today, I started tearing down the pintle and brake assy. It is not going to be easy. There are two difficult to get to bolts inside the A-Frame. I could take teh entire assembly off easier, and might have to, but the A=Frame assembly removal will take apart the entire front end of the trailer and let the A-Frame arms wobble where they would need support. Even so, it appears to be the easiest way to remove and dissect this thing to see if I want to try to remount a modified 2" receiver in the pintle hitchs place, or replace the entire receiver and brake assy mechanism. My neighbor stopped by and said, "Why don't you jsut cut off the pintle and weld a new 2" receiver plate on it for $20. I don't trust my welding, but he has the simplest idea of all, and it's one I'm sure we have all thought about from time to time. There are a number of internal parts on the pintle receiver like the mechanism for emergency stop (which rarely works on these things, or if they do, they just burn up your brakes) and a screw that runs to the piston. Not sure how far I want to go at this point and this will required more overnight contemplation. I will be researching tonight for a patent, and if not there, will apply for one to make this entire process easy as pie. Here is a partial breakdown. Be aware, all these bolts have loctite on them, so don't go after them with a little 3/8" socket set. You need a breaker bar first and a 1/2" socket and ratchet next.
 

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toddm

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you should take that little chain and hook it to the tow hitch, that way if you loose the trailer the brake will lock..
It was hooked up just prior to the photo as I was about to unhook the trailer and decided at the last second to take a picture.:grin: When I went to pick the trailer up the safety chains were a little too short to make it to the proper place also. Gonna have to make them longer.
 

doghead

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If I were inclined to use the 2" ball/brake actuator that 3dAngus has posted, I would just remove the 4 bolts holding the whole stock pintle/brake assembly(triangle plate). I would then make a new plate to bolt on and weld a length of 3" box tube on it. Then bolt the new ball/brake mechanism onto that.

It would not be inexpensive, but it would look good.
 

porkysplace

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It's pretty easy to pull the pin on the hitch and store the hitch in the vehicel . All of our work trucks when not in use the hitch is either behind the seat or in the toolbox , stealing hitchs is pretty common around here . It takes all of 30 seconds to pull it and store it .
 
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