• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Exhaust Leak Procedure

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Guys I have a pretty good exhaust leak going on. While
it looks fairly straight forward in repair procedures I wanted
to ask a couple of q's perhaps of those whom have been
there done that before me.

The Magenta colored arrow points to the area where I have
a leak. It is from here back where it looks like this truck received
some work from a less than professional in the recent past
evidenced by the different colored parts.

Am I going to be smarter if I remove the whole shootin'
match starting with the exhaust outlet stack on top vs
trying to section in this pipe section alone?

It just looks like I might be wiser to pull it all, inspect
inlets and outlets for cracks and rebuild "fitting" each
joint tight and snug as I go vs trying to section it together
and expect a seal, which is what I think happened.

I see I need new exhaust gaskets, will the clamps come
undone and are they reuseable or better to get new clamps
too?

Any other suggestions?

Leaker-exhaust.jpg
 

zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
Squirting some light PB blaster on them turbo style exhaust clamp threads before twitching on this is good.
Its probably the seals in between the flanges that have burned out - unless the clamps have deterioated badly
I would reuse them and new seals - these are flanged exhaust pipes - I have used rolled aluminum foil as seals on other
stuff - but most have a heat resistant material to them. - I would check that flex pipe as well for leaks.
 
194
2
16
Location
Norfolk, VA
I would recommend spraying everything with penetrating oil well before you get started. The clamps should probably be reusable, but it never hurts to have a spare before you need it. I would also replace the nuts and bolts on the clamps with new as that will make your life a lot easier on the install. Sometimes the clamps will require a little motivation from a hammer to separate from the pipe flanges.

ETA Zout beat me to it
 

tigger

Medic.
In Memorial
2,177
50
0
Location
Butler TN.
Its real easy to not get them back together rite especially in a tight spot. may only need to put back together properly. and as Zout said liberal with the pb blaster!
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Well, I started at the top AND DANG GOOD THING I DID.

The mufflers uppermost flange was 50% rusted out! Not long and that
top pipe section would be falling onto the roadway, my luck
in front of a motorcyclist so off it all came up to the offending
joint.

I ordered up new gaskets and I am working on a replacement muffler.

I cut the loop UBolts and I have a better than new replacement
for them already being made. The existing were rotted away.
I thought they were 1/4" till I measured some good threads
and found they were originally 3/8"

The clamps are being bead blasted, new nuts and bolts ordered.

PS, I fired her up wide open for a few seconds !

Turn up your speakers and FEEL the RAW POWER ! HA!

http://youtu.be/jm0qYw56DWU
 

jonesal

Mission Specialist
Steel Soldiers Supporter
413
69
28
Location
Brookings, SD
Can you please tell us where you were able to get the gaskets? Did you find any civy equivalents? I need to do a repair as well but am having difficulty finding the gaskets.

Thanks,
Al Jones
'84 M923
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
You betcha Al, at ERIKS . Please tell Erik I sent you.

Hit all the bolts w/ PB Blaster,
Pull the bottom 2 Muffler guard shroud bolts.
Slightly loosen the top 2 (just a bit).
Start at the top pipe w/ a 9/16" Deep on an impact at the clamp.
Remove top pipe.
Pivot muffler guard up pivoting on top 2 bolts, or remove entirely.
Remove bottom muffler clamp.
With a pneumatic cutting wheel cut left and right sides of both muffler u-bolts.
(mine were rusted bad, not salvageable) Save ubolt "stands".
Remove top half of next clamp (1/2" ) of next pipe.
Remove next clamp Pull horz pipe section.

Kinda fun to start engine now and hear the power like I utubed above.

Beadblast and paint ubolt stands and maybe clamps. (Clamps might be SS)
Buy new clamps hardware. ( I trashed clamp hardware.)

There are 8 Ubolts left on epay w/ stands. I opted to save my ubolt
stands because they are a lil more substancial than what you see
on epay. I have my own ubolts that are 3/8" x Fine Thread w/ High
Nuts I will use. I'll PM you the two links for some other parts I found
you may want.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
SURPRISES!

When I first looked at this I almost threw in the towel
then I said I mine as well try to fix it...glad I did.

On one end there is a divot, almost looks like someone tagged
the flange w/ a cut off wheel. I welded it and ground it as new.

On the other end, the leaker end, it looks like someone
dropped the pipe making a section flat, out of round, BAD.
I put the whole deal in a vise, hit it w/ a rosebud tip
and smacked it a few times w/ a piece of 3.5" OD pipe
and SUCCESS! It was dented "in" as well, another heat up
and few well placed blows w/ a hammer and tool and
and I got lucky!

EXHAUST-1.jpg EXHAUST-SANDER.jpg EXHAUST-FLAT.jpg EXHAUST-FLAT-1.jpg


EXHAUST-DIVOT.jpg EXHAUST-DIVOT-1.jpg EXHAUST-done-1.jpg EXHAUST-done-2.jpg
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Next piece...............;


Ugg, the muffler is real bad...

Thinking harder on this one. . .

Yea I want to stay stock so I will look for a used muffler
from the dry states, no rusty's .
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,614
2,922
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
SECO Southeastern Equipment Co in Ga sells the gaskets. 1-706-798-7500 www.secoagusta.com. The V band clamps are common cummins or truck exhaust parts that should be easy to reuse. NAPA sells them. Changing the bolt to a grade 8 is very worthwhile.

The hold downs on the muffler are standard U bolt muffler clamps.

I have had access to a few parts trucks and most used mufflers are rough or well on the way to rough. There are some "new" on fleapay. In my mind they are worth the extra $ unless you can find a really new looking "used" one recently refurb. They are way too easy to hold water and rot out internally from sitting up. A rain cap is a cheap $10 2 min fix that justs bolts up and very worthwhile in saving your investment.

Been there, done that :)
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Well I need a muffler, I am on a hunt for a deal on one.

In the mean time another piece of the puzzle arrived today,
that being the U-Bolts that get / got cut off to remove the muffler.

I found some UBolt assemblyies claiming to be "Military" but
their bases are of a guillitine style vs my OE parts which are
more of a "stand". I saved my bases and replaced the UBOLTS
w/ quality parts I had made.

ubolts-m.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks