exhausted by tire and beadlock need help

[paramedic7831]

Ok. Here is my problem. I have some custom 10 inch wide 2 piece wheels. They have the internal beadlockers. The beadlockers are 8 inches wide. So when i got the beadlocker in the tire and put both sides of the rim in I have exactly 1 inch gap between the 2 rim halfs. I am using the 46 inch XL's. The lip of the tire is 1.31 inches. So a combined measurement should be: 2 tire lips @ 1.31inches x 2= 2.62 inches and beadlocker= 8 inches. both together should be 10.62 inches. I used 3 hand vices to try to get bead to crunch down to get rims together. I mean how much sqeeze should I have? I dont want to damage my wheels by forcing some longer bolts to wrench it down. Not sure if i need to trim maybe 1/2 inch off the beadlocks or what. Anyone else have this problem?

 

[paramedic7831]

pics. Maybe someone could also tell me what rims these are too? thx guys

 

[Trango]

When I assembled my old 53's on old Military combat rims, my preferred method of sucking them down into place was a highlift jack. Allow me to explain:

Because the dimensions didn't work out in any other way, I had to use a novel method. I sat the tire and main part of the rim under my truck (rim under the tire), sat the beadlock ring on top, placed a probably foot-long piece of rectangular tube steel on the beadlock ring, and then perched the highlift on top of that tube steel. So, I used the truck as the "fixture" in a press.

That sucked the beadlock rim down enough to start the first few bolts.

Best,
Bob

 

[Beerslayer]

Was just discussing this very issue with another member last night.

I am not a bead lock expert, so this is second hand...

There are many different tire bead widths. You do want some compression, but if the bead lock is too wide you can cut it down.

Skilsaw was suggested to me.

 

[emr]

A hand held circular saw like said above sure would be the best tool,manufacturer optional I would use a Makita , If one has no experience with one, they should first cut half the distance they want to cut first then make the final cut after getting the feel of the tool,

 

[glcaines]

Be careful using the circular saw to cut the beadlocks! Also, make sure you don't cut too much off because you do want some compression to remain. Similar to the story of using the highlift, I have forks on the front of my John Deere 5520 tractor which makes compressing the wheel halves very easy to the point where the bolts will pull.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I didn't see it stated, are you adding these beadlocks or did they come with the rims?

 

[Beerslayer]

make sure you don't cut too much off because you do want some compression to remain.

OK, that's what I figured;;;

So if one is doing the calculations before cutting.

HEMTT wheel 10" wide

1600.20 tire beads 2" wide each [or whatever they are I have to go measure]

That leaves 6" for beadlocks plus what you need to allow extra to put pressure on the beads.



So here is a question for an expert on this, how much wider should the beadlock be to provide the pressure needed on the beads.

Bonus question: Is it different for metal beadlocks?

 

[paramedic7831]

Hey guys thx for all the advice. Gimp the beadlocks came with the rims. I bought all 4 with beadlocks last year at the Ga rally. I have no idea who made them. I feel so stupid I was going to use a air dye grinder with a cutoff wheel to trim some. Starting with cutting just a small amount first and working my way to get them somewhat close and having some extra to squeeze beadlocks and tires together.

After reading this I think I might use my table saw. That would give me something sturdy to butt up the side allowing for a makeshift jig and allow me to cut small amounts off. Way faster I think than my original plan to use air dye cut off.

 

[Beerslayer]

Well my guess is to allow .5" to .625" extra width on the beadlocks for some big push against the beads but I am hoping that someone with actual technical expertise in this area will weigh in.

BTW, the two rubber beadlocks I have are both made by Hutchinson. They are also a big innertube maker.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I would imagine having the insert just barely touching would work fine. Seating the bead and breaking the bead take some effort. I would think that unless you plan to run 0-3psi, your not going to peel the tire off the rim.

 

[Trango]

Apologies - I skimmed the first post, and totally mis-read the intent. I saw "hand vices" and was off to the races on how to join recalcitrant wheel halves.

 

[Ridgerunner]

To give you some motivation, here's what your wheels will look like with some tires mounted on them.

 

[spicergear]

I sure as **** hope those first pics of the wheels aren't old USA6x6 dealies. GARBAGE...and a good chance the insert was wrong. Hopefully they're not...

 

[Beerslayer]

Ok. Here is my problem. I have some custom 10 inch wide 2 piece wheels. They have the internal beadlockers. The beadlockers are 8 inches wide. So when i got the beadlocker in the tire and put both sides of the rim in I have exactly 1 inch gap between the 2 rim halfs. I am using the 46 inch XL's. The lip of the tire is 1.31 inches. So a combined measurement should be: 2 tire lips @ 1.31inches x 2= 2.62 inches and beadlocker= 8 inches. both together should be 10.62 inches. I used 3 hand vices to try to get bead to crunch down to get rims together. I mean how much sqeeze should I have? I dont want to damage my wheels by forcing some longer bolts to wrench it down. Not sure if i need to trim maybe 1/2 inch off the beadlocks or what. Anyone else have this problem?

Spent some time today on this issue with a couple of old time tire guys. The consensus is that you should have about .5" to compress the rubber beadlocks.

Mine are too wide, I am going to trim about 3/4" off with a Skilsaw this weekend.

Will let you know how it goes.

 

[Trango]

In case you get too bogged down - just a reminder that rubber often cuts easier when cold (I.e. Frozen).

 

[Beerslayer]

Thanks for the idea. I will leave them outside where it's cold.