Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

[mikey]

Well, I am sure I didn't wait long enough for the full performance of the Behr stuff. No doubt on that. I now recall several such stories about it's performance after a period of time. I wonder how the oblique reflectivity is after a month. Have you had military CARC to compare against? I remember when we drove up to pick up my buddy's truck, it was dark out and raining. It was parked facing us on the other side of a narrow suburban street and if we had not had our headlights reflect off of the truck's headlights at about 15~20 feet away, we would have run right into the truck. That's how low the reflectivity is on the original stuff. I haven't tried painting a whole truck with other stuff (Behr, Gillespie, etc.) to compare against, but that is pretty impressive. Likewise, when we started driving it home at night, I was following the truck and people would pass me, get past the truck's rear marker lights and then try to merge back into our lane (right into the side of the truck) until they see it at the last second and swerve back over.
I don't want car accidents, but let's just say that, for other reasons, I want the reflectivity performance of original CARC.

The oblique reflectivity is substantially less after one month. I do have two trucks, one with CARC, but they are a few miles apart. I may have them together in a few weekends to compare. I'm willing to bet, just by memory, that the Behr does have more of a shine, but I can tell you with 100% certainty that the more the truck gets wet now, the painted one, and the more those soapy bubbles come off, the flatter it gets.

Below are pics from the day I painted. I'll get the same angles this weekend. Although, pictures obviously can't compete with the human eye.

Mikey

 

[Beerslayer]

As for oblique reflectivity, let's just say, it is water based house paint.

CARC has all kinds of secret stuff in it so that it can be washed down after chemical weapons exposure, and what not.

For the most part, the guys using flat water based house paint on these trucks just want it to look nice. It does that really well.

If you want the full performance of CARC, you are better off using it.

If you just want it to look great, well the Behr and Sherwin Williams exterior house paints really perform well.

 

[michigan4x4]

As for oblique reflectivity, let's just say, it is water based house paint.

CARC has all kinds of secret stuff in it so that it can be washed down after chemical weapons exposure, and what not.

For the most part, the guys using flat water based house paint on these trucks just want it to look nice. It does that really well.

If you want the full performance of CARC, you are better off using it.

If you just want it to look great, well the Behr and Sherwin Williams exterior house paints really perform well.

I agree with this completely. If one wanted a paint job with 0 reflectivity, better off using CARC. Most on this site just want to make their MV look as close to original as possible, without spending an arm an a leg to do it. I doubt any of our vehicles will be exposed to chemical weapons, infrared detection, or radiation. So, in lieu of CARC, the next best thing going is the house paint. Is it perfect? Nope... Does it hold up well and look good... Yep.

Just my $0.02
Jeff

 

[WizardBlack]

Great comments from everyone and I agree with all of you. Anyone care to comment where Gillespie paint falls compared to Behr vs. CARC?
BTW, sharp looking trucks.

 

[Pablo66]

I'm going to be painting my hmmwv with Gillespie 383 green paint hopefully within the next couple of weeks... I'll post some pics when I finish....

 

[MWMULES]

So, is CARC the formulation and 383 the color? If so, is there a 24087 color for the CARC formulation?

As far as the military there never was a "CARC" 24087 that I am aware of, now if you want the Behr codes for 24087 this is the one I use and is current.

UP Date 4/12/15 Remember a lot of the older posts with Behr #'s on the lids are not true FS they were color matched, so start with a clean slate.
Tell the clerk the list of the FS codes in the HD paint computer is found by going under "Competitor Color look up" and selecting Federal Standard as the manufacturer then have them enter just the five number code.

 

[WizardBlack]

So, is CARC the formulation and 383 the color? If so, is there a 24087 color for the CARC formulation?

CARC is a paint technology. A lot of us are using '383 green', but it is technically 34094.

Scan through this and you will see some useful color coding info and reflectivity, etc. for fabrics standards.


For posterity:

Federal Standard 595B
Numbering System
Five Digit Number (ex: 595B 30494)
•First Digit = Finish 1-High Gloss 2-Semi-Gloss 3-Flat or Lusterless
•Second Digit = Color 0 = Brown 5 = Blue 1 = Red 6= Gray 2 = Orange 7 = White, Black, Miscellaneous 3 = Yellow 8 = Fluorescent 4 = Green
xxx= last 3 digits refer to reflectance

 

[plym49]

CARC is a paint technology. A lot of us are using '383 green', but it is technically 34094.

Scan through this and you will see some useful color coding info and reflectivity, etc. for fabrics standards.

Fascinating!! Many thanks.

 

[Blueduce]

Has any one had any luck with putting that gripping material back on there fender tops and bumper. It's almost like a sand mixed into the paint. Anybody know what it is or the best way to apply it.

 

[SteveKuhn]

"...Has any one had any luck with putting that gripping material back on there fender tops and bumper. It's almost like a sand mixed into the paint..." Bluedeuce

Yeah. Try play sand mixed in paint. In my case, a color test mix of RustOleum.

Never took any photos to prove it works, but it does.

Steve

 

[Gunfreak25]

I am sorry I took the stuff off my bumper and fenders. I will be putting new grip stuff back on by brushing on a thick slurry of sand/behr too.

 

[WizardBlack]

I recommend you get the adhesive grip tape made for wet surfaces from Home Depot or Lowe's, etc. It will hold up much better than what you can get dissolved in the paint. You can just get the black stuff and then paint over it with a brush that is lightly saturated with paint. That's the kind of stuff I have seen on original trucks.

Stuff like this where it is pre-cut or this one is easy to roll out or this where you can get wider stuff for whatever you want.


By the way, I have some Gillespie 34094 drying on top of a factory CARC paint job and next to some Behr paint and where some original Vietnam-era paint has flaked through, so I can get some images of color and gloss in a side-by-side comparison as soon as they all have some more time to cure. So far, Behr is finally starting to harden although the Gillespie hardened much faster. Behr is way ahead on color match and gloss level, however.

 

[DAP]

We do not use these strips in aviation if we can avoid it. We use a wing walk anti skid paint. It is basically flat black paint with sand particles in it. Applied wet it doesn't peel like the strips. Of course a truck doesn't go as fast as an airplane - LOL so you probably aren't woried about it peeling. If you want a color match then use sand blasting sand not play sand mixed in with your paint to match. Sand blast sand is finer and more consistent in particle size. It makes it very easy to touch up as it wears. You can also tape the area off to any size and shape desired.

 

[SteveKuhn]

All depends on what you want for the final effect. You can repaint the whatsits out of the coarse sand mix before you start to lose traction because of the play sand's coarseness,

The bottom of the folded bumper step is the original military sand-in-paint. The bumper top and fender are the results after applying my recipe with a 10-for-a-dollar chip brush. Part brushing - part schtupping with the tip to break up the clumps; no masking 'cause the military didn't. Just get ready to pick out bristles. 1x use of the brush and toss it.

Gunfreak's description of 'slurry' is a good one. The sand doesn't dissolve - it suspends. Stir often. My mixture was like cake batter in consistency. Doesn't matter if it's alkyd or latex/acrylic. Used it on lots of dog agility equipment with house paint.

Hope this helps you make up your mind. I'm thinking of putting it on the cab steps and a couple of patches on the bed front's flat surfaces where I climb up, like above the pioneer rack and fuel tank.

Steve

 

[michigan4x4]

"...What about the porch and patio paint that someone mentioned?? Are there any advantages to Porch and Patio paint over regular exterior Latex house paint?..."

That was me. I rolled my bed floor and sides with it. No hint it wasn't sprayed. Great flow, no Floetrol. This report is since last fall, truck sitting outside, so judge from there.

The difference is that it's epoxy and made to be walked on. It's done very well for general wear. It has rubbed off where objects have been tied and rubbed against it for trips or where freight was dragged. I'd expect that from any paint. It's not Rhino, and my 101 w/ CARC takes the scraping of freight better. Just don't like the sandpaper finish.

P&F has proven far more durable than the Gillespie sprayed on the tailgate. It's satin - not flat or semi. On a fender, I think I'd be real happy except I want semi. This is just a tad short of it.

I'm not ready to say it's more durable than the industrial alkyd I used on the cab steps. They scratched too. The abuse is different, but I think that stuff is just harder. Example: I used the alkyd on my wheels. The right rear tandem was torn down with an impact gun to change a wheel cylinder. I got a few small chipped spots on nuts that you'd miss if you didn't look. It will go throughout the under carriage.

PREP properly!!!! I wanted to be bragging about now about my M105 done with direct to metal industrial acrylic, but I can't. After they blasted it, the shop's painter screwed up and and primed with epoxy primer. Just too smooth and hard for a grip, no paint solvent effect, probably not enough cure time, so spots are peeling.

They're going to blast again to bare metal then use the acrylic direct, sans primer. I expect to be very pleased a year from now because certain areas on the Deuce where I used it and the troop seats look very good.

It's going to the MTA show to transport a mule if you want to see it. My stuff will sport my Blowin'Smoke avatar picture and phone.

It goes back to the shop afterward for the fix.

Steve

Steve, You stated above that you used industrial Aklyd on the underside and wheels of your M105. What Brand did you use and how was it applied? Sprayed I assume? I want something durable for my M101A2 which I will be painting in the next two weeks. If the Aklyd is more durable than the exterior house paint, that is what I want to go with. Can the Aklyd be bought as a flat paint? Or is it gloss?

Thanks.. I am unsure what paint to use now. Want something as durable as possible as I use the trailer off road on logging trails a lot. The bed will be bed lined, I am speaking of the exterior of the bed. I have already painted my trailer frame with 2 coats of Chassis Saver (Same as POR 15) and then rustoleum Enamel over the Chassis saver.

Need something durable for the outside of the box that will take scratches from tree branches etc.

Jeff

 

[Blueduce]

We do not use these strips in aviation if we can avoid it. We use a wing walk anti skid paint. It is basically flat black paint with sand particles in it. Applied wet it doesn't peel like the strips. Of course a truck doesn't go as fast as an airplane - LOL so you probably aren't woried about it peeling. If you want a color match then use sand blasting sand not play sand mixed in with your paint to match. Sand blast sand is finer and more consistent in particle size. It makes it very easy to touch up as it wears. You can also tape the area off to any size and shape desired.

Thanks fellas, Dap sounds to me to have the best option for me using the anti-skid paint. That is of course if it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. If I can't find it or can't afford it I will try the sand slurry.

 

[Blueduce]

Looks like Homers has the anti slip paint. It called Sure- Step by Insl-x it's 100% acrylic latex and about $ 30.00 for a gallon. Looks like it comes in a Pearl Gray. I'll run down this week sometime to get more details. IE: can it be colored, does it come in smaller quantities, etc.

 

[SteveKuhn]

It's worth noting that I'm going for restoration on those vehicles so finish and color are important. My 105 is industrial acrylic (Ben Moore P29). The Deuce wheels, steps, etc. are industrial alkyd (Ben Moore P24). The Deuce bed is porch and floor (for a satin finish, fairly flat.) The flatest alkyd in BM can only be bought in those as low luster/satin (P23).

If you're looking for true modern exterior flat, you need to look at house paint or an industrial flat (mostly NOT exterior or tough abuse products that I can tell.)

I like the durability of the semi gloss alkyd P24/satin P23. Lug nuts show only minor chipping after a couple go-rounds with an impact wrench, but tips of branches and the like in the woods are a different scratch, made worse as sheen increases.

Perhaps right along with durable you should consider maintenance because anything will scratch. I might try house paint for an application such as yours - that is if I didn't go for CARC. Cured house paint is durable and flat is easy to touch up or redo a panel as long as it hasn't been on long enough for a shade change.

When the time comes I'm still thinking of using it on my 101 that serves as a utility trailer.

Hope that didn't confuse things more.

Steve

 

[michigan4x4]

Right on Steve. Thanks for the explanation. That is what I was looking for. As you said, from a maintenance perspective, I will probably just use the exterior house paint. My trailer is modded (fenders widened, LED tail lamps, and all brake parts removed) it is used strictly to haul hunting gear and to make the occasional home depot run. I am probably just going to paint it flat black as I am not worried about matching the 383 green.

Thanks!!!

 

[michigan4x4]

I am a Sherwin Williams guy. There is a Sherwin Williams store just down the road from my house. Wondering if anyone has had any experiences with the new "Emerald" exterior paint line. Looking at this stuff over the "Resilience" line.

Here is a link to a a press release:
Sherwin-Williams Takes Paint Quality to the Highest Level with New Sustainable Coatings and Colorant System - MarketWatch

And another link to the SW site:

Emerald

Let me know if anyone has tried this stuff. Waiting for the 100 degree temps to stop here in MI so I can start painting my trailer.

Thanks
Jeff