External 24 VDC Battery Maintaining Station Project

[DrillerSurplus]

Does anyone have any experience with this unit?

http://www.pulsetech.net/PROHD-PulseTech1224Volt-Pulse-Charger-Battery-Recovery-Unit-7340.aspx

If anyone has one of these for sale please contact me Thanks Frank

GL was selling quite a few of these several months ago. I think I recall one that had been posted for sale on SS.

 

[Plugugly]

Did mine today. Took about ten minutes, I just snipped the eyelets off the fused connector that came with the NOCO Genius 7200 charger, and replaced the ends with crimp on connectors to fit the spade terminals in the plug I had. A little left over cord insulation to give the strain relief something to squeeze on, and I was in business. I did have to meter and mark the terminals in the plug first, they don't have markings from Greywacke for some reason.

Mine's not as nice and permanent as OP's, but I will drive my truck year round and just use this for a little maintenance charging or extra help when it really gets cold.

 

[DeuceRoadTripper]

Today I received a pair of 500 amp NATO connectors for a jump start kit. It was a bit over-kill but using 6 feet of 16/2 SO cord and one of the connectors changed out the plug on the BatteryTender station. The M35A2 is fully charged using a 2-pin NATO adapter and two of the M923A2 trucks are fully charged. It was definitely the connector not the charger causing the problem.

 

[jhooah]

I'm cheap, I bought Harbor Freight solar panel when it was on sale for under $20 and tossed it in the window for the Winter on my Deuce. It does voltage from 9-28V supposedly. I'll see what happens in a month after letting it sit. Usually just a trickle charge is all they need, as the altenators on them put a constant drain of a few milliamps or such to sense the voltage to begin charging when starting up the engine.
Disconnecting the batteries with a main kill switch would do for most warmer climates.
V/R W. Winget

 

[85 USMC M998]

I am cheap like jhooah, so I just have two battery disconnect switches from Harbor Freight one to separate and one to disconnect from the system. I then put my 12v AGM battery charger on either battery until it is charged and switch it to the other battery. I didn't go cheap on the AGM charger; I am sure there are others out there but I have very good luck with a CTEK MULTI US 7002. It has revived 3 batteries that I thought we garbage. My HMMWV is in a garage that gets no colder than 35.

 

[TLambert]

I had an issue where after extended periods of sitting, the truck wouldn't kick over (click/click). One battery was at 12.8v and the other near 11.6v.

I purchased the NOCO 26000 on Amazon. For the price differential, why not go to the most amperage charger and one that does both 12 and 24v. NOTE: the NOCO website is not up to date with their latest products, but Amazon is. The 26000 now has a 30A starting option (fast charge). In addition, the connector between the charger and "jumper" has changed in he upgrade, so be cautious if you purchase the GC006

I initially used the charger and the alligator terminals and charged the batteries separately (it has a repair circuit).

I then modified the "jumper". I removed the ring terminals and wire them into a plug paying attention to polarity. So the POS (+) carries thru to the Slave Receptacle


I added a 14 AWG 25' cable of SJOOW. I would recommend this cord based on oil and water resistance. If you use SJT, it will become difficult to manage in colder weather application. Since I was only using for charging and not jumping the unit, the 14 AWG should be plenty acceptable. I used a receptacle end to connect to the "jumper" on the charger. The plug/receptacle connection allows an index to maintain polarity. I also used Graywacke Engineering GEISLV-A for the connection to the vehicle. Mine is a single prong but that will be obvious when you remove contamination cover on your vehicle.



I now have the charger in a weather sheltered area and the 25' cord runs to the truck parked outside. Works great!!

 

[datadawg]

I had an issue where after extended periods of sitting, the truck wouldn't kick over (click/click). One battery was at 12.8v and the other near 11.6v.

I purchased the NOCO 26000 on Amazon. For the price differential, why not go to the most amperage charger and one that does both 12 and 24v. NOTE: the NOCO website is not up to date with their latest products, but Amazon is. The 26000 now has a 30A starting option (fast charge). In addition, the connector between the charger and "jumper" has changed in he upgrade, so be cautious if you purchase the GC006
View attachment 570256
I initially used the charger and the alligator terminals and charged the batteries separately (it has a repair circuit).

I then modified the "jumper". I removed the ring terminals and wire them into a plug paying attention to polarity. So the POS (+) carries thru to the Slave Receptacle
View attachment 570257

I added a 14 AWG 25' cable of SJOOW. I would recommend this cord based on oil and water resistance. If you use SJT, it will become difficult to manage in colder weather application. Since I was only using for charging and not jumping the unit, the 14 AWG should be plenty acceptable. I used a receptacle end to connect to the "jumper" on the charger. The plug/receptacle connection allows an index to maintain polarity. I also used Graywacke Engineering GEISLV-A for the connection to the vehicle. Mine is a single prong but that will be obvious when you remove contamination cover on your vehicle.

View attachment 570258View attachment 570259View attachment 570260

I now have the charger in a weather sheltered area and the 25' cord runs to the truck parked outside. Works great!!

You have the male plug connected to the output of the charger. It would be safer to connect a female to the charger output and the male to the NATO slave. That way, you do not inadvertently have a hot plug putting out 15 A of current when connected to the charger - the male has prongs exposed, and this can be dangerous.

 

[Jbulach]

You have the male plug connected to the output of the charger. It would be safer to connect a female to the charger output and the male to the NATO slave. That way, you do not inadvertently have a hot plug putting out 15 A of current when connected to the charger - the male has prongs exposed, and this can be dangerous.

You want the male on the charger, not the batteries. 15A vs 1500A. Too many amps...