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Extreme RV from M36a2

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Could use some help with the electric. Here is what I have so far. Power supply will be a 50 amp inlet, 20
amp 110v inlet both being AC, and a battery 12 volt inlet from battery pack. So the plan is to have both AC inlets (50 and 20 amp power inlets) tie into a good quality surge protector. From there the 50amp will go into the breaker box with a transfer switch in it. The 20amp will lead into an outlet. The top outlet plug will be powered with the 20amp shore power and the bottom plug will be powered from the inverter. A wire with the extension cord mail end will come out of the breaker box. That way I will be able to choose between shore power and battery power for the 110v 20 amp inlet.

I plan on going with the following as a 12v power: shureflo water pump with a on off switch, over head inside lights and two Rule 240 bilge fan to help out with air flow when heating the camper and I will use the other fan for the bathroom exhaust. The one used for air circulation when heating will be tied into a thermostat and have a dimmer/ voltage controller so I will be able to adjust the fan speed. I also wanted the inside lights to be 12v LEDs. Less power usage. AC power will go to the airconditioner, the refrigerator and a few power outlets.

Suggestions are welcome with this. I will be good with a 2000watt 3000surge inverter. Anyone have experience with these? I'm looking for a pure sine good quality fare priced one. Also I guess I will need a converter for the dc stuff and charger for the batteries when I can afford the. I have been trying to research the stuff but I get a lot of this one is great and that one is crap. But I'm not sure which are the good ones. I looked at aims and magnum, both have mixed reviews. The solar stuff will have to wait a while. I just want to get it going for now. I only plan on using two 100 amp/hour batteries for now. Just to power the dc things and maybe the refrigerator. Advise is needed and appreciated. Thanks.
 
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sgtmike3

Member
38
1
8
Location
Ohio
D2,
I've been flowing your build for a while. I'm wanting to do something similar in the next couple years and I'm impressed with what you've got going on with your build.

I'm a little confused about the dual power input with the 50 and 20 amp service. Could you explain that?
I'm not a fan of the idea of a live male extension cord for power transfer. I would rather see a transfer switch put in before the breaker box that would allow you to select shore power or inverter power. Just a simple throw of a lever.

In my plans for my future build I'm going to put in a dual system that will supply 110 from shore or inverter (planing on 600-800 watt solar) and a 24v DC system for appliances direct from battery bank. I can step the DC down to 12v or 5v as needed as well.

Keep up the great build. And as always be safe around the electric. Have you thought about a separate earth ground?

Sarge
 

andy3

Member
614
12
18
Location
Suwanee, Ga
I love your thread. Thank you for sharing. As far as AC to DC converters I am a Progressive Dynamics guy. They have 12v & 24V units. Almost all of them are 3 and 4 stage chargers and I have had several on my RVs, commercial trucks & trailers where 12V was needed. I can tell you that they will keep batteries (If water is checked and filled semi-annually going for years. I have some 6V batteries wired in Series in MY RV that are going on 10 years. My RV is plugged in year round and my PD charger keeps the batteries in tip top condition. Look for a pull at a RV salvage yard.

I have run all kinds of inverters for split systems in mobile grooming trucks and RVs. Just know that once you run the batteries down and are trying to run both sides of the split your AC load doubles. PM me if you want and I can discuss some options. I also recommend doing a battery tieback with isolation and a bot option to jump start yourself in case of a run down.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
In my opinion, a 30 amp shore power service would be plenty for a build of this size.
You could use an rv style power center (ac breakers, dc fuses, and dc inverter/batt charger in one),
Or, stand alone ac breaker panel, stand alone 12v dc fuse panel and stand alone 12v converter/charger, the latter is what I incorporated.
Here's a beer inspired diagram of what might work for you,
Just remember, the simpler the better. Keep up the fine work!
Ps:you could wire in the shore power feed right in to the ac breaker panel if your not ready to install the gen or invertet yet.uploadfromtaptalk1384734722017.jpg
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Thanks for the replies. First the wire coming out
of the beaker with the male end is going to feed the breaker box, so it isn't hot until it is plugged into the outlet. The outlet will provide power to the breaker box on the 20amp side. The top plug will be from the 110v shore (plugging into a standard outlet. The bottom plug will be powered by the batteries. They make systems that go from shore power to back-up power automatically, but KISS. Keep it simple stupid works for me. The outlet thing will work the same as a transfer switch.

I apologize if my written descriptions aren't great. I am better with visual.

Andy thanks for the progressive info. I'll look them up.
 
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daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Thanks razor. I'm going with the 50 amp because I feel safer having a 50 set- up and having to use a 30 to 50 adapter than having a 30amp set- up and using a 50 to 30 adapter. Just worried the adapter wouldn't work and the 50 amp power source would fry my 30amp system. Plus I already have the 50amp plug.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Razor the gen. Will plug into the same 50amp power inlet plug as the shore feed. The box on the drivers side behind the cab. Post 196
 
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docpadds

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
107
2
18
Location
Ashville, OH
I used an RV control panel with transfer switch. It takes care of charging when plugged into the shoreline or when Genny is running.

I used dual breakers so ended up with 8 nice little circuits along with the one for the aircon on roof.
 

Hainebd

New member
520
5
0
Location
Mays Landing, NJ
Nice build. I would like more pictures but I know how hard it is to do and to take pictures at same time. But if you can build, you can take pictures too for us to be envious of.
 

rmgill

Active member
2,479
14
38
Location
Decatur, Ga
I would strongly suggest you go with Rayzer's design schematic.

1. It allows flexibility of power use and distribution.
2. It's inherently safe. An inverter providing power to the panel with no transfer switch will cause a back feed and that will mean that the power inlet will be hot. This means male ends on the plug will be hot in some cases and that the system could back feed into the shore power. Sparks are bad.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Well it has been a bit of time since I last posted. I would love to say I have gotten a lot done, but no one likes a liar. I did get the aluminum for the cab over floor and the tailgate extension section. Surprisingly the aluminum for the cab over was heavier than the 3/4" osb board. I am gaining some room with thickness though. The aluminum is 3/16, so I am saving over a 1/2". Doesn't sound like much but it adds up. I haven't installed any of it yet. The entire family got the New Year's bug. Started with my son and spread to the entire family. I have been sick since Tuesday.
Once I recover from the bug, I have to get back on the house. I am putting in a back up generator system in for the family. Nothing fancy, I am putting a separate generator electric panel in. the panel will feed a few outlets through-out the house. the outlets will only be powered from the generator so there is no possibility of double feeding them. If no generator then no power to those outlets. I'll have red outlet cover plates on those outlets so my wife can easily id them. That was all the wife needs to do is start the generator and plug in the power cord to the generator. No need for me to be home for her to take care of business. I do plan on getting back to the camper after the house generator is done.

I discovered a leak in the middle differential. The seal where the drive shaft goes into the differential behind the dirt deflector. So leaks first and then back to the camper. I hope every one had a great Christmas and New Year's.
 

SteelWarrior

Member
31
0
6
Location
portland, maine
Awesome build! I have done quite a bit of camper work, mods and such as well as fabrication and building construction so this is a very entertaining thread to me - and many others it seems. One Idea for others contemplating a build like this I would HIGHLY suggest keeping your eyes out for a camper trailer that has been "totalled" by an insurance company. This could be as simple as a hols in the roof caused by a branch falling on it etc. These can be had for cheap money a lot of times and WELL WORTH their value in a few parts alone. Think of what you would pay for an RV Fridge, sink, toilet and shower -used these parts could cost as much as buying an entire "salvaged" camper. Nevermind the inverters, chargers, outlets, pumps, tanks etc. etc.

Interesting story for me recently: The city was doing a sidewalk project and hit my parked 20 foot travel trailer with an excavator! I was paid by the insurance company for the full value of the camper because the damage to the top corner of the camper was estimated at higher than the current book value (1,000 more than I paid for it two years earlier - btw). I will end up repairing it when it comes from winter storage but this camper will likely end up being the donor for my Deuce build in the near future.

AAANYHOOOOO - Thanks so much for the build pics and keeping us all entertained, informed and educated. - Best of luck to you and your family.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
No problem with entertaining. Glad so many people like the build. The family is planning a camping trip in the next few months, so the push is on. Wifey needs the water and electric done. I installed the aluminum and actually I have no more room than I started with. I added some 1/2 inch foam board and a piece of paneling to the cab over section, so the thickness is the same. I did get to draw the blue prints for the plumbing. I am going to start with the plumbing and move on to the electric. I can always make modifications to the stuff if need be, but I need to get it going. I have some concerns with the water heater though. I am afraid the exhaust outlet in the side of the wall isn't going to be large enough and the area around the elbow might get too hot. I have the double walled elbow but I plan on testing it with the water hose hooked into the heater and a drain line running the outside. I'll have the heater run for a while to see how much heat it puts out. Worst case scenario is I have to make a larger hole in the wall for exhaust. It will be a pain in the:deadhorse:but not the end of the world. We'll see what happens.
 
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