48cj2a
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Thank you for your generosity Gene!
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Yes, you are correct.Hmmmmm........ I thought it was against the forum rules to post links to any Ebay auction. Am I wrong?
Sorry all, didn't realize about the links, it never occurred to me that they might consider a buy-it-now to be an "auction".
Hello! i'm new here and Gene refferd me to go here to find good info to swap my fuel gauge to C60 tach/fuel combo! big thx to you for all the right up gonna help me a lot!Here are some photos detailing where I needed to cut the stock dash, and how the unit is wired up. You will need to purchase a tachometer adapter from Widget Man.
They can be found on E Bay under CUSTOM-PROGRAMMED-TACH-ADAPTER
The unit will need a ratio of 1 : 5.33, with a 12 Volt output. 1.5 millisecond blanking time.
When you wire in the tach, do not tap into the ignition 12+ wire in dash wiring harness, when the glow plugs cycle, it kills power to the dash, so the tach will read zero when the glow plugs are lit or cycling.
Here is where it hits and where I had to cut out, you do not need to cut the circuit board. I used a dremmel with a cutting disc:
View attachment 750244View attachment 750245
Here is the wiring. I took the diagrams off the site here, but I'm not sure if they are 100% correct. You only need to worry about the fuel sender input, ground, and hot. The tach is wired separately. I grounded to the grounding block/terminals under the dash. I did also buy a small brake light indicator and put that up between my voltage gauges. Just tap into the brake light wires if you want to add that. Fuel sender wire is terminal 18 on the board, and the pink wire in the harness. I added a second tank, so that's why I showed it switching in the video. Don't worry if your tach doesn't have the wiring plug, it will work with just normal spade terminals. The tach is clearly marked, so you won't mess it up.
View attachment 750242View attachment 750246View attachment 750248View attachment 750249
The tach has a jumper, and I broke mine. So, I soldered wires to allow me to test the different positions. Use the jumper position shown, or do what I did below and just connect the 2 wires. If you don't have the jumper, or yours is in the wrong position, be sure you take off the plastic backing plate or you will break the jumper trying to get it out. If you are installing the jumper, make sure you have the metal tab under it, or it won't complete the circuit. In the picture below, you would want the red and white wires to be connected. I was doing some testing, that's why I made it so I could change the circuit without taking the dash back out.
View attachment 750243View attachment 750247
i was thinking wiring up my fuel gauge from the circuit where the fuel gauge was look the way on the pictureI should also add that I checked everything with my laser light tach, reading off the blancer, and it is as close as you will get with a factory tach.
That is beutyis!Got it all working
and this got changed tooFrom the Rules:
Auction Postingslease abide by the following rules concerning the posting of auction information in the forums:• Do NOT post about future or current GL/GP(GovPlanet)/GSA/eBay (including items for sale in buy-it-now formats)/local/city/state/Federal/estate auctions. You may post about any auction after the auction is closed.• Do not post links to auction photos. • Do not post links to GL/GP(GovPlanet)/GSA(or other sites)that have links that quit working after a short period of time. Save the image to your PC and then attach it to your post.• Do NOT post links to current eBay auctions or Craig's List ads that are not your own. You may post a link to your own auction/ad only if it is in an information/discussion thread about your vehicle/item. Do not start a post in the Conversations forum or your vehicle specific forum just to announce your auction/ad. • No collusion as specified above.
No E Bay links are permitted including the Buy It Now.