Fan Clutch Solenoid Aftermarket Replacement

[joelnelson1207]

Dear group & Ronmar,

Update on my electrical problem.

#1 - I follow Ronmar's instructions to unplug the temperature sensor.

#2 - I start truck, switch fording fan switch to OFF, bring truck up to temp (which because it is so cold blooded took 2 runs up a steep grade on the highway at full throttle - I never drive this truck at full throttle - and even then I barely got the temp to 205F).

Once temp at 205F I switch the Fan Fording switch to ON. Fan solenoid dumps air, fan engages, and brings temp down immediately. I repeat multiple times and all successful.

So, I guess this tells me:

(a) - I can do nothing more and simple drive truck and when temp gets above 200F I can manually engage fan with fording switch in cab.
(b) - I can buy a new temperature switch, install switch, and if it works great.
(c) - I can buy a new temperature switch, install switch, and if I get the same shut down / error I then know it is NOT temperature switch problem BUT instead a wiring short which I'll have to track down.

My plan is to try a new temp switch and update you guys. Thanks everyone and especially RonMar for your time and expertise. Appreciate you guy.

Sincerely,
Joel

 

[joelnelson1207]

Opps, one more thing! Any suggestions on where I can a Temperature Switch cheaper than this?

Engine Temperature Switch FMTV LMTV

TM-9A-230R-7, TM-9A-230R-Cannon, 12414329-001, 2990-01-439-3058, FMTV, LMTV, Army Truck, Military Truck, Engine Temp Switch, M1078 / M1079 / M1080 LMTV 2.5 Ton, M1083 / M1084 / M1085 / M1086 M1088 / M1089 / M1090 / M1092 M1096 FMTV 5 Ton

memphisequipment.com

 

[coachgeo]

Opps, one more thing! Any suggestions on where I can a Temperature Switch cheaper than this?

Engine Temperature Switch FMTV LMTV

TM-9A-230R-7, TM-9A-230R-Cannon, 12414329-001, 2990-01-439-3058, FMTV, LMTV, Army Truck, Military Truck, Engine Temp Switch, M1078 / M1079 / M1080 LMTV 2.5 Ton, M1083 / M1084 / M1085 / M1086 M1088 / M1089 / M1090 / M1092 M1096 FMTV 5 Ton

memphisequipment.com

maybe https://www.ebay.com/itm/2915886052...xlF02LOhM5Z0JkfvhVV-4bbCRHFsRQ7AaArXTEALw_wcB

and swap wires from yours to this one? see if seller knows at what temp this unit switches? Maybe thread pitch and some dimensions so you can see if it is similar size threads and depth, Normally open or Normally closed (you need closed or modify based on what @Ronmar says below) etc...

 

[Ronmar]

maybe https://www.ebay.com/itm/2915886052...xlF02LOhM5Z0JkfvhVV-4bbCRHFsRQ7AaArXTEALw_wcB

and swap wires from yours to this one? see if seller knows at what temp this unit switches? Maybe thread pitch and some dimensions so you can see if it is similar size threads and depth etc...

The part cross number for that sw 7N9785 says it trips at 225F which is a little high… it is normally closed though, which is the hard part of this equation. there are lots of automotive coolant/fan control switches out there, but most all are normally open until they reach set temp. You would need to add a relay in circuit to invert the logic to use a more common normally open fan switch. That or a normally open fan solenoid valve and some other re-wiring…

 

[Oxyacetylene]

I just installed the aftermarket solenoid valve on my truck. Thanks for the videos by @CallMeColt and @Ronmar and to @wheelspinner for mentioning that was an option. I went ahead and ordered two of them to have a spare, or to use one for some future purpose maybe, along with the stacking screw kit and pack of 1/8" plugs which brought the total up high enough for free shipping.

I think it was maybe a video comment where someone asked about the difference in port sizes and if that might affect the longevity of the fan clutch. I don't think the difference is big enough to be a problem, but just for the sake of keeping it the same I came up with a way to add a flow restrictor onto the inlet side. I cut down the inlet fitting from the old valve enough to make it into an insert for the inlet air line. Instead of using the thin tubing insert like normal, I used that piece. The original inlet fitting has the rigid pipe insert made into the fitting, and I cut that part down. Pics below.

Here's a comparison of the inlet port on the aftermarket valve vs the size on the factory connector. Hard to see in the pic, but pretty close. There is a slight difference though:


Here are a couple of pics showing the insert that I made by itself, and how it fits into the new fitting:

 

[CallMeColt]

I just installed the aftermarket solenoid valve on my truck. Thanks for the videos by @CallMeColt and @Ronmar and to @wheelspinner for mentioning that was an option. I went ahead and ordered two of them to have a spare, or to use one for some future purpose maybe, along with the stacking screw kit and pack of 1/8" plugs which brought the total up high enough for free shipping.

I think it was maybe a video comment where someone asked about the difference in port sizes and if that might affect the longevity of the fan clutch. I don't think the difference is big enough to be a problem, but just for the sake of keeping it the same I came up with a way to add a flow restrictor onto the inlet side. I cut down the inlet fitting from the old valve enough to make it into an insert for the inlet air line. Instead of using the thin tubing insert like normal, I used that piece. The original inlet fitting has the rigid pipe insert made into the fitting, and I cut that part down. Pics below.

Here's a comparison of the inlet port on the aftermarket valve vs the size on the factory connector. Hard to see in the pic, but pretty close. There is a slight difference though:
View attachment 878854

Here are a couple of pics showing the insert that I made by itself, and how it fits into the new fitting:
View attachment 878855
View attachment 878857

Good work!

The port size is so close I don't think it will be an issue. Mine has cycles probably 2,000 times since I have installed it. With that being said, it certainly won't hurt to do this and bring it to where it was.

If it was a full 1/4 inch port size, I'd be worried about it being to much.

 

[BERZERKER888]

once I saw Ronmar find a solution then followed by CMC shortly there after.. I did the same aftermarket install... 1 years ago a zillions of cycles... zero issues... I think Sean Filner was the last human on the planet to have purchasesd an OEM (Burkhart?) from overseas !

 

[Ronmar]

Actually you want restriction if any on the outlet/vent port, and personally I don’t think it needs it. Remember the fan works inverse. It applies air to release the clutch. Like driving a manual, you want to release the clutch quickly by stepping quickly on the pedal(applying air). And you ease the clutch into engagement by smoothly releasing the pedal(releasing air). In testing the two, one right after the other, I got the impression that the new solenoid actually released air slightly slower than the original, but that was just my impression… it seems to engage the fan smoothly…

 

[sutcliffesa]

I know this is an old thread but does anybody know where I can purchase the original Burkert 454861Y Solenoid Valve? It's being used on a Heavy Brush fire fighting vehicle so the liability of using a non OEM spec valve is higher than my volunteer pay grade, and I really don't want to be sued.

Thanks.

 

[Ronmar]

I know this is an old thread but does anybody know where I can purchase the original Burkert 454861Y Solenoid Valve? It's being used on a Heavy Brush fire fighting vehicle so the liability of using a non OEM spec valve is higher than my volunteer pay grade, and I really don't want to be sued.

Thanks.

Well the default if it quits is fan on/running, so not a lot of liability. How deep are your pockets, last one I saw from any vendor was north of $600... i have a used one i will sell you...

 

[sutcliffesa]

Burkert has them on their website for $166 new but it's without the 'Y" at the end so it's spade connectors instead of the wire lead. I'm checking to see if I can legally cut the wires from the old one and solder spade connectors to it. When you start putting NFPA on things it gets very muddy very quickly.

Thank you though. I really appreciate the fast response and let me know what you're asking for the part and I'll send it on the the Chief.

 

[TomTime]

Here is what you’ll have for one if you can find it in stock.

Solenoid Fan Clutch And Diff Lock

12417631-001, 4810-01-439-3483, Solenoid Fan Clutch And Differential Lock, Army Truck, Military Truck, M1083 / M1084 / M1085 / M1086, M1088 / M1089 / M1090 / M1092, M1096 FMTV 5 Ton

memphisequipment.com

 

[Ronmar]

Here is what you’ll have for one if you can find it in stock.

Solenoid Fan Clutch And Diff Lock

12417631-001, 4810-01-439-3483, Solenoid Fan Clutch And Differential Lock, Army Truck, Military Truck, M1083 / M1084 / M1085 / M1086, M1088 / M1089 / M1090 / M1092, M1096 FMTV 5 Ton

memphisequipment.com

Yea, out of stock. Midwest doesnt even list a price for one anymore, but they will sell you the one shown in the videos above for $300 with some fittings amd pigtail installed...

 

[Ronmar]

Was the truck ever certified as a NFPA vehicle?