Fan Clutch Solenoid issue

[Andyrv6av8r]

then bleeds the wet tank completely when parked

This shouldn't happen if your PPV valve is working properly. You probably have a leak somewhere else also. I have a used plunger if you want it. Also if you replace the valve with a different unit, verify that it is a 3 or 4 way valve. A two-way won't bleed off the air.

 

[Third From Texas]

Sorry, double post

 

[Third From Texas]

This shouldn't happen if your PPV valve is working properly. You probably have a leak somewhere else also. I have a used plunger if you want it. Also if you replace the valve with a different unit, verify that it is a 3 or 4 way valve. A two-way won't bleed off the air.

I may take you up on that plunger if I can't sort something out.

So looking 3-ways, you think something along these lines would work?

"NITRA solenoid valve, 3-port (3-way), 2-position, N.C., single solenoid spring return, (1) 1/8in female NPT inlet(s), (1) 1/8in female NPT outlet(s), (1) 1/8in female NPT exhaust(s), Cv=0.78, 24 VDC, 3.0W, 11mm DIN style wiring plug. Price: $24.50"
View attachment 774235

 

[simp5782]

Your solenoid should be 12v on that truck. Common part at any truck parts place for the solenoid. Something like a horton where if you have issues they are in stock nationwide and you can source one on the road easy enough

 

[Third From Texas]

Your solenoid should be 12v on that truck. Common part at any truck parts place for the solenoid. Something like a horton where if you have issues they are in stock nationwide and you can source one on the road easy enough

Mine does indicate 24v on the OEM Burkert. Though I have not put a meter to the power yet.



I'm waiting to head out to the Island for some beers in a couple hours, so I thought I would give the plunger a shot at a "professionally resurfacing".

LOL



EDIT: Just a temporary fix out of curiosity (I won't be heading across Texas w/o replacement)

 

[Ronmar]

Fan circuit is 24V powered from CB 22...

 

[tennmogger]

When you took it apart you probably noticed the plunger (that zips back and forth when powered, or not) rests on a plastic or hard rubber seat. In the non-powered position the long term sitting allows the plastic to extrude into the air tube at the axis of the plunger, sticking it in place.

Others have pointed out that a tap on the housing will free it. Others have lubricated it and got it working. A long term solution is to remove the little pillar of plastic that got extruded from the bumper. Very delicate operation but it works.

 

[Third From Texas]

When you took it apart you probably noticed the plunger (that zips back and forth when powered, or not) rests on a plastic or hard rubber seat. In the non-powered position the long term sitting allows the plastic to extrude into the air tube at the axis of the plunger, sticking it in place.

Others have pointed out that a tap on the housing will free it. Others have lubricated it and got it working. A long term solution is to remove the little pillar of plastic that got extruded from the bumper. Very delicate operation but it works.

Mine was metal-to-metal in the "rest" (sprung) position. I could tell that the little metal "tit" had at some point been coated with rubber(?) to secure a seal. It's the lack of said rubber seal that I assume is allowing air to be escaping when the fan engages and when the truck power is shut off.

I had tried a dab of oil in the past, but what little "rubber" was left in there was totally gone this past disassembly (it had just deteriorated completely, it seems.

My attempt to re-coat the base of the plunger with a thin layer of rubber was a fail...

 

[simp5782]

Mine was metal-to-metal in the "rest" (sprung) position. I could tell that the little metal "tit" had at some point been coated with rubber(?) to secure a seal. It's the lack of said rubber seal that I assume is allowing air to be escaping when the fan engages and when the truck power is shut off.

I had tried a dab of oil in the past, but what little "rubber" was left in there was totally gone this past disassembly (it had just deteriorated completely, it seems.

My attempt to re-coat the base of the plunger with a thin layer of rubber was a fail...

There is a 24v valve on ebay RF993283U

 

[Floridianson]

OOO Kaay_ Dismantled fan clutch solenoid for the third time. This time I put a tiny bit of 30 weight motor oil on the rubber pads that seat on the cones at each end of the solenoid. Magically, the solenoid is now operating as advertised.

A good friend once told me that EVERYTHING works better with lubrication,,,,, looks like he was right again

I use baby oil not as hard on the rubber if I do not have air tool oil.

 

[Floridianson]

View attachment 774236

I may take you up on that plunger if I can't sort something out.

So looking 3-ways, you think something along these lines would work?

"NITRA solenoid valve, 3-port (3-way), 2-position, N.C., single solenoid spring return, (1) 1/8in female NPT inlet(s), (1) 1/8in female NPT outlet(s), (1) 1/8in female NPT exhaust(s), Cv=0.78, 24 VDC, 3.0W, 11mm DIN style wiring plug. Price: $24.50"
View attachment 774235

Did you ever figure it out and get that one?

 

[Third From Texas]

Did you ever figure it out and get that one?

Andy sent me his used one and it resolved my issue so I never looked beyond that...

 

[ppillard]

I recently repaired mine by drilling out the rubber that lines the core of the plunger and replacing it with fresh silicone. Both ends of the plunger are supposed to seal the orifice it connects with while either powered or un-powered. The rubber dries out and cracks and allows air pressure past when the solenoid is un-powered.
I don’t really know how long this fix will last, as I don’t know how durable the silicone will be compared to the original rubber. I’ve ordered a replacement solenoid as a backup. When powered, my solenoid is hot to the touch. Is this normal?

 

[Floridianson]

Mine get warm too. Seems like a backwards design and wonder how it effects the rubber.