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FDC bypassed and crankcase still floods with fuel

Seth_O

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Did you check the o-rings on the HH, the booster pump and the flame heater (if equipped)? Those are all possible causes of fuel in the crankcase and all seem more likely to me than a broken injector. Also, I'm not sure where a broken injector would get fuel into the oil system, you would need that issue + another problem in the head I think to allow them to mix?

How does the engine sound while running? I would start with pulling the stop cable cover off the IP and turning on the in-tank pump. If you see fuel dripping inside you have bad o-rings on your HH. Next I would disconnect the flame heater (if equipped) to see if that fixes your issue. Following that I would check your booster pump.
 

crazywelder72

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It has a new HH on it. The flame heater I rebuilt with new o-rings ( I still don't under stand how the flame heater will leak into the system if you do not engage the switch to pump it) Regardless i will disconnect it at this point. I can check the HH easy enough also.

What does the booster pump look like? The exhaust sounds gurgily or poppy (???) when running. I Have been working the bugs out and i thought it was a dirty injector and was hoping it would clean out the more i ran her.

I still will inspect the injectors. I cant keep doing $90 oil changes every week. I need to solve this as efficiently as possible.
 

Seth_O

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It has a new HH on it.
The HH o-rings is a (fortunately) easy check. Did you change all 3 o-rings when you replaced the head?

I've opened 2 IP's, and found the o-ring on the actuator arm to be bad on both of them, and that's an item you may not necessarily service when replacing the HH.

The booster pump is on the side of the IP, follow the fuel line from the primary filter under the radiator, it goes from there into the pump.

Uneven running or stumbling could be an injector issue - can you isolate if you have a cylinder not firing?
 
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gringeltaube

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How about a little search-homework for "booster pump shaft seal"...? (about 10 threads, all related!)

Or directly go to this thread, linked to this other one, which includes my post with seal P/N...

G.
 

DieselBob

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It has a new HH on it. The flame heater I rebuilt with new o-rings ( I still don't under stand how the flame heater will leak into the system if you do not engage the switch to pump it) Regardless i will disconnect it at this point. I can check the HH easy enough also.
I don't understand it either. I see this come up fairly regularly and just can't figure how this happens. With the engine running if the intake flame heater nozzle leaks that much into the intake pipe it would cause a run away long before it could start to show up in the oil somehow, uncontrolled fuel source. If the pump is left on with the engine shut down it would have to fill the intake tube and turbo to the point that the fuel goes past the seals in the turbo and into the crankcase via the turbo oil return. With that much fuel collected in the turbo, would have to be half full of fuel to reach the seals on the turbo shaft, the first time you would try to start the engine it would hydro-lock long before you would need to worry about fuel in the oil. The pump for the intake flame heater has no connection to the engine except for the fuel lines and no connection at all to the lubrication system. I just can't figure it.
 

doghead

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DB, you have it "figured out".
 

crazywelder72

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I didn't want to but to see if i could get this under control I did disconnect the flame heater. It is easy enough to eliminate and or reconnect. I already had a fitting so the feed can connect straight into the return.

I ran out of daylight so i didn't get a chance to inspect behind the fuel cutoff cover. Should this area be a zero drip or is some liquid in there normal when running?

DH, I haven't heard from you in a while. How are you doing? :beer:
 

doghead

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Been busy here, but doing well. Thanks for asking!

I see you've been doing quite well! Thank you
 

Seth_O

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I ran out of daylight so i didn't get a chance to inspect behind the fuel cutoff cover. Should this area be a zero drip or is some liquid in there normal when running?
There should be ZERO fuel behind the cutoff cable cover. When you pull it turn on the in-tank pump (but do not start the truck) and see if you see anything dripping/running at all - that's indicative of a problem.
 

cattlerepairman

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I still don't under stand how the flame heater will leak into the system if you do not engage the switch to pump it
It is my understanding that fuel is supplied to the flame heater nozzle at all times at the regular fuel line pressure of about 60psi with the in-tank fuel pump running. The flame heater nozzle will not open at this pressure and not spray any fuel into the intake. When you activate the flame heater switch, the flame heater booster pump raises the line pressure to about 90psi and the nozzle pops.

With bad O-rings in the nozzle, fuel will be able to seep into the intake at the normal 60psi line pressure and flood your crankcase.

Guess why I am so smart - and what my engine "oil" currently looks like ... :evil:
 

crazywelder72

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Catman, Thanks for explaining that to me. I had no Idea and thats why I never suspected it. Even tho I rebuilt it, i disconnected it just in-case.

Besides, if I can get away without needing it in the winter I can use the components to start to make the flame thrower out the stack. :)
 

Heavysteven

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My flame heater is a never ending battle. I want to keep it for originality but it's been more of a risk lately. It's plugged at the moment and I have been to busy to fix it.

Here is the video's i made.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pz4fYBo5Jfs&feature=endscreen&NR=1[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9xHolOZzZU&feature=relmfu[/media]
 

rrrr

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My cold start was an issue. After replacing the injector, lines, etc it still would drip on the turbo. I finally just pulled the injector, plugged the opening, pulled and plugged the fuel lines and disconnected the electrical line to the cold start fuel pump. No problems since and my truck starts nicely even in temperatures well below freezing. I guess I'm lucky !
 

JasonS

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My cold start was an issue. After replacing the injector, lines, etc it still would drip on the turbo. I finally just pulled the injector, plugged the opening, pulled and plugged the fuel lines and disconnected the electrical line to the cold start fuel pump. No problems since and my truck starts nicely even in temperatures well below freezing. I guess I'm lucky !
I bought a new one from White Owl; problem fixed.
 

crazywelder72

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Today I took a look behind the fuel cut cutoff cover.
I took a video with the fuel pump on as suggested. It was dripping down the lever.:shock: Where do i go from here?

:oops:
Try to ignore the horible saftey wire job i previously did. It will be redone when I get thinner wire.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKOFDVIAZ84&list=UUC53mLybGdn8ao_13fgQZZw&index=1&feature=plcp[/media]


The first time I opened the cover it was filled with fuel also, I thought it was the HH so I replaced it. Nobody mentioned that this was a problem and to look for this cause when i had it all apart.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faaqDjAzEmc&list=UUC53mLybGdn8ao_13fgQZZw&index=8&feature=plcp[/media]
 

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Seth_O

Member
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Sac CA
Thats exactly where mine leaks from - the actuator shaft has an o-ring on the end of it. Try replacing that and see if it solves your problem. Here's the size:

Actuator O-Ring: .426 x .070 = -013 or 013 (depending on which standard)

Out of curiosity, how much liquid did you pull out of your oilpan when you drained it? I was diluted ~3:1 with diesel, and have found some bearing damage on my mains.
 
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