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Finally got me a deuce!

Balalala

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Well I removed the floor mats, and underneath was a mess..

I vacuumed all the dirt and sand out, washed it out then painted in some rust converter.

20230610_103612.jpg
20230610_103600.jpg

Then I hit it with some rust paint, and then put a can of truck bed liner ontop of that. End result looks pretty good considering what it was.
20230610_161141.jpg
 

HDN

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My floor looked a little bit nicer underneath - just surface rust fortunately! One of these days I'll paint it. I don't take it out much and when I do it's during the summer as my "summer car" so it won't get rusty too fast :)

Out of curiosity, what's your truck's S/N?
 

Balalala

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Canada
My floor looked a little bit nicer underneath - just surface rust fortunately! One of these days I'll paint it. I don't take it out much and when I do it's during the summer as my "summer car" so it won't get rusty too fast :)

Out of curiosity, what's your truck's S/N?
Stamp says 501135. I wish I had a place to park this thing out of the weather, hopefully one day!
 

ToddJK

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Can anyone give me a quick run down on how the air fittings work on the back end of the deuce? One says service, one says emergency
One of them is air full time and the other only activates when the brake is applied. I'm not 100% sure on that but you'd want to verify that in the TM's if you plan on hauling a trailer or anything.
 

Mullaney

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Can anyone give me a quick run down on how the air fittings work on the back end of the deuce? One says service, one says emergency
.
The "service" connection is where air is pushed through the line from the brake peddle out back to cause the brakes to "apply" and cause the trailer to stop (IE: Service Brake).

The "emergency" connection fills the tank and lines in your trailer connection on the back of the truck. It really isn't the emergency brake - but it functions as one IF your trailer has "spring brake chambers" on the trailer.

So, short version "service" actuates the trailer brakes and "emergency" charges the air system on the trailer.
 

Balalala

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Canada
.
The "service" connection is where air is pushed through the line from the brake peddle out back to cause the brakes to "apply" and cause the trailer to stop (IE: Service Brake).

The "emergency" connection fills the tank and lines in your trailer connection on the back of the truck. It really isn't the emergency brake - but it functions as one IF your trailer has "spring brake chambers" on the trailer.

So, short version "service" actuates the trailer brakes and "emergency" charges the air system on the trailer.
Thankyou mucky for the clarification. Is there a way to turn the emergency air on?
 

HDN

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Finger Lakes Region, NY
If you want to use compressed air off your deuce the "Emergency" gladhand is your friend! I keep a long air hose in my truck's toolbox with a gladhand on one end and a quick-connect on the other end, to which I usually connect a remote-locking air chuck.
 

HDN

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Finger Lakes Region, NY
Thankyou mucky for the clarification. Is there a way to turn the emergency air on?
There should be an air valve behind the passenger-side rear mudflap. My method of operation:

1) Connect gladhand

2) Open emergency air valve

3) When done using truck air, close emergency air valve

4) Bleed air from connected hose all the way down before removing gladhand

Your truck may have gladhand covers on it. Mine came with one on the emergency gladhand, but is missing one on the service gladhand. Replacements can be found at auto parts stores like NAPA.
 

cattlerepairman

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Thankyou mucky for the clarification. Is there a way to turn the emergency air on?
There is a ball valve in the plumbing hidden behind the bumperette. Verify that this valve is on. They can get very stiff due to non-use. Also, the rubber seal on the gladhand can become hard. Every truck stop carries replacement seals.
 

Balalala

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Canada
There is a ball valve in the plumbing hidden behind the bumperette. Verify that this valve is on. They can get very stiff due to non-use. Also, the rubber seal on the gladhand can become hard. Every truck stop carries replacement seals.
Thanks I new it was there but had trouble finding it.
 

Balalala

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Canada
Wheel weight showed up.. I admit I don't know my way around the TM's very well. From what I understand you let the air out of the tire, remove the lug, install the weight, and retorque down the lug.

Torque spec is around the 400lb mark?
 

HDN

Well-known member
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Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
Wheel weight showed up.. I admit I don't know my way around the TM's very well. From what I understand you let the air out of the tire, remove the lug, install the weight, and retorque down the lug.

Torque spec is around the 400lb mark?
The TM says the wheel weight is installed after the clamp ring nuts are installed, which isn't how my truck was manufactured. If it were my truck, I'd put the wheel weight on the appropriate clamp ring stud and secure it with another nut. The CTIS stone shield is tightened only to 60-80 ft-lbs on the clamp ring studs, so I'm thinking that might be an okay torque range for attaching the counterweight without having to remove a nut actually holding the clamp ring on.
 

Balalala

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Location
Canada
The TM says the wheel weight is installed after the clamp ring nuts are installed, which isn't how my truck was manufactured. If it were my truck, I'd put the wheel weight on the appropriate clamp ring stud and secure it with another nut. The CTIS stone shield is tightened only to 60-80 ft-lbs on the clamp ring studs, so I'm thinking that might be an okay torque range for attaching the counterweight without having to remove a nut actually holding the clamp ring on.
I do have a spare lug nut I found in the toolbox.

This one needs moved up a lug..
Screenshot_20230622_104423_Gallery.jpg

If I don't remove the existing clamp ring nut the weight will sit proud would it not?
 

Balalala

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Location
Canada
Parade went well, the deuce was liked by all. Outdoor temps were nearing 90⁰f and the truck had no problems. Other than the boot seals on the front axle, in the hot weather they leaked out some grease.

It has an appointment with a mechanic to have the front bearings checked, and the boots replaced.

Has anyone ever tried to put the ctis shield back on, after having lockout hubs installed?

I see that western Canadian Rockwell sells boot armor kits. Has anyone used them?

Cheers to all, and happy late 4th of July


20230706_122912.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

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Parade went well, the deuce was liked by all. Outdoor temps were nearing 90⁰f and the truck had no problems. Other than the boot seals on the front axle, in the hot weather they leaked out some grease.

It has an appointment with a mechanic to have the front bearings checked, and the boots replaced.

Has anyone ever tried to put the ctis shield back on, after having lockout hubs installed?

I see that western Canadian Rockwell sells boot armor kits. Has anyone used them?

Cheers to all, and happy late 4th of July


View attachment 901034
.
The shield maybe but CTIS air is supplied through the axle so you have a choice of Lockout Hubs or CTIS.
Can't have both (so far as I know).
 

HDN

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Finger Lakes Region, NY
.
The shield maybe but CTIS air is supplied through the axle so you have a choice of Lockout Hubs or CTIS.
Can't have both (so far as I know).
The CTIS will work as long as there's space in the hub for air to flow from the inner wheel bearing into the hole in the side of the hub that's piped into the hollow wheel stud.

It looks like you'll have to modify or fabricate stone shields to fit around the lockout hub. You can probably do without the shields unless you're planning on off-roading with the truck.
 
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