Finally, my M1083A1 is at it's new home...

[Third From Texas]

I down loaded all of the TM's I could find here on SS

This is the fellow who had been offering copies of the A1 TM. About a year later, he uploaded it to the web for free, but I don't see his post regarding that.

M1078A1 -10 Technical Manual

I went to my old unit today and was lucky enough to have one of the mechanics put the -10 Manual on a disc for me. It is over 1500 pages. I think it is too big for email. Any suggestions on how I can make it available to the A1 guys?

www.steelsoldiers.com

And I wonder if our fuzzy little kitchen appliance ever got this rolling?

Please help identify an FMTV manual

This loose-leaf paper copy training manual is for the FMTV series trucks, but the model is not specified on the prints. The 50 plus page manual breaks out the truck systems, each on a page or two, not spread all over ‘30’ or more pages as is done in the manuals we have in the archives. Anyone...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[TomTime]

Mmmmm, good question?

 

[fuzzytoaster]

And I wonder if our fuzzy little kitchen appliance ever got this rolling?

Please help identify an FMTV manual

This loose-leaf paper copy training manual is for the FMTV series trucks, but the model is not specified on the prints. The 50 plus page manual breaks out the truck systems, each on a page or two, not spread all over ‘30’ or more pages as is done in the manuals we have in the archives. Anyone...

www.steelsoldiers.com

I did. I've got it on a thumb drive somewhere. Let me see if I can get it uploaded to the TM section or something by this weekend.

 

[JD4044M]

There are hoses under the Air Pump Box and the Box itself can leak and drop close to that area. A fitting on the side of the box can be loose and under pressure it will squirt like it did on the back of my cab!! Remove the protection cover off the top of the pump assembly then have some one pump it and watch. Check fluid level in the box and top off the hand pump thru the 9/16" head bolt on top. Be sure to have the cab down when filling so you don't put to much in to fluid lock it. It is a return loop system with dual action cylinders.

 

[TomTime]

There are hoses under the Air Pump Box and the Box itself can leak and drop close to that area. A fitting on the side of the box can be loose and under pressure it will squirt like it did on the back of my cab!! Remove the protection cover off the top of the pump assembly then have some one pump it and watch. Check fluid level in the box and top off the hand pump thru the 9/16" head bolt on top. Be sure to have the cab down when filling so you don't put to much in to fluid lock it. It is a return loop system with dual action cylinders.

I'll have to check that out this weekend and see if that is the problem. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for info!

 

[fuzzytoaster]

The schematics are still classified so can't be uploaded to the TM section. I've reached out to those inquiring about it.

 

[TomTime]

The schematics are still classified so can't be uploaded to the TM section. I've reached out to those inquiring about it.

So you have a copy of it? If so could you send me a copy on a thumb drive or CD? I'll send you a thumb drive/CD or if possible you could use a thumb drive/CD and I will pay you for your parts, time and shipping? I need all the help I can get for my learning curve on MV's.

Let me know, many thanks!

 

[Celticlady]

I still want to hook up a battery charge and I am considering the Norco.

I have the Norco. Buy it!!! With the nato plug. I have a handful of chargers I don’t use now that I have this nice one.

26A 12/24V MILITARY SLAVE/NATO PORT CHARGER

military vehicle sale, military truck for sale, Military Vehicles Super Site, 6x6, army military trucks, Buy humvees, surplus construction equipment, vehicles, trailers and more. See all rolling stock surplus for sale. Bid online, buy now or make an offer, equipped for bug out situations...

midwestmilitaryequipment.com

 

[Mullaney]

I still want to hook up a battery charge and I am considering the Norco.

I have the Norco. Buy it!!! With the nato plug. I have a handful of chargers I don’t use now that I have this nice one.

26A 12/24V MILITARY SLAVE/NATO PORT CHARGER

military vehicle sale, military truck for sale, Military Vehicles Super Site, 6x6, army military trucks, Buy humvees, surplus construction equipment, vehicles, trailers and more. See all rolling stock surplus for sale. Bid online, buy now or make an offer, equipped for bug out situations...

midwestmilitaryequipment.com

.
I am not certain that he still has some, but Suprman had Solar Powered 24v chargers that attach to the NATO plug.
May be worth checking in with him... I bought two and they work really well!


Tim

 

[TomTime]

I still want to hook up a battery charge and I am considering the Norco.

I have the Norco. Buy it!!! With the nato plug. I have a handful of chargers I don’t use now that I have this nice one.

26A 12/24V MILITARY SLAVE/NATO PORT CHARGER

military vehicle sale, military truck for sale, Military Vehicles Super Site, 6x6, army military trucks, Buy humvees, surplus construction equipment, vehicles, trailers and more. See all rolling stock surplus for sale. Bid online, buy now or make an offer, equipped for bug out situations...

midwestmilitaryequipment.com

I have looked at them but no one has one in stock at this time...at least I could not locate one. Maybe someone else knows where one could be found?

Thanks for the info!

Tom.

 

[TomTime]

.
I am not certain that he still has some, but Suprman had Solar Powered 24v chargers that attach to the NATO plug.
May be worth checking in with him... I bought two and they work really well!


Tim

Thanks for the info Tim.
I'll give Suprman a PM and see it he has any.
Tom.

 

[Third From Texas]

I have looked at them but no one has one in stock at this time...at least I could not locate one. Maybe someone else knows where one could be found?

Thanks for the info!

Tom.

Amazon also has piles of Pulsetech products (as well as eBay).

Keep in mind, these only maintain good charges, they won't keep up with a serious drain. Pay attention to "output wattage" (more is better with solar). And a lot of brands "pulse" (I think Noco does as well as several other "smart chargers" these days).

And ask around about how maintaining via the NATO port charging works. Someone brought up some interesting points in a recent discussion, but I don't recall the specifics).

Personally, solar can be dodgy (clouds/weather) and the rig has to sit outside. I'm a much bigger fan of hard lines when it comes to all things electrical and IT. Plug it in and know it's working...

 

[TomTime]

There is only one hydraulic hose going to the Cab Latch. If it is still leaking you need to check the inside O-Ring make sure it seated and no pieces of the old 0-Ring was left in the groove. Just went thru this on mine. The inside one is the hardest to clean out and install. My O-Ring was in many pieces and leaked bad. If the Latch does not open when pumping it will over pressure and possiblyView attachment 832068View attachment 832069 blow a seal. Took a while using my finger to get it to go into the grove inside the Slave Cylinder.

Well after responding to the you the first time, I now feel foolish for what I am about to say!

Thank goodness I was able to get the spare down and out of the way. Once I got the spare tire out of the way I was able to get up and get a closer look at the latch and the area around it. After putting the two O rings and the pin wiper in the front of the latch, I put a rag under it and started pumping. It didn't show and fluid, well I didn't see any at that time coming from the latch (Blind in one eye, can't see in the other).

After reading your advise again, after giving my initial response, I checked the latch again. With the spare tire removed I now found that the latch was actually leaking from the other end or inside the latch. I can only say, big rookie MV mistake due to lack of experience in this area, but I chalk it up to a good lesson and learning experience for me!

Well, now how to repair the latch with the cab down and how to get the cab up with the latch leaking so much it will not permit the cab to lift. I took the latch apart again, disconnected the hydraulic line from the latch and capped it off. Once this was done, I fill the air/hydraulic unit and the hand pump up with fluid, and was able to get the cab up.

Thanks for your help and sorry for my initial response!

Tom.

 

[JD4044M]

That little inside O-Ring is a real bugger to put in. If you left a tiny piece of O-Ring in the slot it will leak again. It took me about 15 mins to get the slot clean and the new one in that slot. So far mine is not leaking anymore.

 

[TomTime]

That little inside O-Ring is a real bugger to put in. If you left a tiny piece of O-Ring in the slot it will leak again. It took me about 15 mins to get the slot clean and the new one in that slot. So far mine is not leaking anymore.

That O ring was in a dozen or so pieces. I cleaned everything well using a toothbrush, dental pics, and some brake cleaner. Not only did I double checked it but I triple checked it to make sure (I want to keep the hard lessons learned to a minimum now). Unfortunately the repair kit I purchased, the O ring and the wiper ring for the larger end of the plunger are two big. The wiper is to big to get in the groove and the O ring goes in the groove but is to thick and I could not push the plunger in with all that I could give it. Now I have to order one online and wait.

While waiting for the rebuild kit I will now get to work on the non running engine to see what the problem(s) are.

Take care.

Tom.

 

[TomTime]

Well I started on the engine. Oil and transmission fluids are full, oil dark, coolant a little low. In the coolant tanks glass view port, it has some white partials at the bottom third of the glass. Looked over the fuel tank, no leaks, fuel tank almost full. There is no bad smell from the fuel and with a flashlight I was able to see the bottom of the tank. Fuel looks clear and the tank looks reasonably clean, a lot cleaner than I was expecting.

Pumped on the priming pump to get fuel up to the engine. Pumped that thing for, it seems like 5 minutes with no fuel. Broke the line on the primer pump at the entrance port and put my finger over the opening and pumped it with no pressure port suction. Did the same to the exit port and then with both off and plugged and not pressure or suction. The primer button was soft the priming pump is bad. Checked the fuel lines and they looked good, not hard and no cuts or abrasions that I could find, without taking them completely off.
I was able to hookup with Suprman and I'm getting a new pump and solar maintainer. Suprman was great, gave me some good advise and helped out a lot! Thanks Suprman!

One thing I have found is the the 3126 is somewhat different from the 3116, with parts placement...at least that's how I see it. I try to read the TM's as best I can and have watched numerous videos on youtube, which they provide some good information. On most of the LMTV and MTV videos where they're working on the engine, there engine must be a 3116 because my 3126 looks different.

Now the drive shafts come off tomorrow and goes to get repair and balanced, while I wait for a cab latch kit and the priming pump.

Life goes on, learning a lot and having fun.

All be safe,

Tom.