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First MUTT

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Bent one inner bearing seal unfortunately. They are a bugger to get started right. All the new seals have the wear sleeves vs the existing ones. Have to replace the two rear bearings and races. Hopefully have her put back together by independence day. I would like to thank all of you who have, and are currently serving our country. God bless.
 

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m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,118
67
48
Location
Maine USA
Good progress, overall very clean looking M151, they are easy to work on and parts are readily available.
 

mutt1966

Member
284
13
18
Location
Allentown, PA
The radio is the RT-834 for a GRC-106 the Top (what you would need) is the AM-3349 it is a HF set a little rare to see in the back of a A1, wonder where the top half has gotten too.... Scott O&O
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Hello everyone. Been awhile. I have been cruising around in the MUTT driving back and forth to work and such and the old girl runs great! Leaks a little here and there but great. Going to tackle the exhaust this winter. Ended up removing the upper east of antennas so I could relax the springs while driving around town and not wack the comm drops. Transmission does grind when gearing down to 3rd. Not sure why. RPMs aren't high when down shifting. I will keep a look out for a AM-3349 to complete the radio set. My future project is to convert the set to an AM/FM radio for music while driving and mock radio chatter while on display. Any one else cruising their MUTTS around?
 

SturmTyger380

Active member
482
30
28
Location
Easley SC
I had thought about converting an old Army radio but when I found a pair of Bluetooth speakers that would fit in an old speaker shell I got I went with that idea. I use my old i-phone 5 to connect to them.

Here is a video I made to show my brothers. https://youtu.be/n4mV-nb_zt4

Right now I have 1960's music but I will create a playlist of radio chatter.

Alan
 

joel

Member
80
9
8
Location
sioux falls,sd
Ok, I have an ant on my mutt, the ant sticks up 15', the wires going across the road should be at 18' here in SD(except maybe a driveway)the synchronizer may be worn, try this when shifting 2nd to 3rd go horizontal in neutral for a split second then move into 3rd gear.I never had to do this for downshifting 4th to 3rd.
I have a RT524 in the mutt, took the guts out, put in a remote fm music radio in it.This is controlled by a remote hand held.The most I hit with ant is tree limbs hanging over the road
The LS 454 speaker worked by the RT connection
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Nice! Appreciate the ideas for the radio. Not sure which route to go yet. Yes I believe 18' is the standard wire heigtht across the country however do to old standards, loose wire or leaning poles here in Ohio I hit some frequently haha. Double clutching seems to help third gear. I'm still going to flush it out and take the top off for inspection of damage soon.
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Just an update emerging from the thaw. Bought two correct batteries by DEKKA made in PA. Battery floor looks rough and will need replaced in the future. Cleaned up what I have and painted it for now. Re working the batt brackets with need rubber. Replaced the batt terminal lugs, and picked up new plug wires from RAPCO. Need to change the oil, and do a compression test as I found oil/carbon build up on the plugs. Pistons looked caked with crud as well. Going to be replaceing the rad hoses and flushing the system soon.

Any recommendations on coolant types, brands, and do I need additives at all?
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Almost forgot. This Mutt is showing her colors which I find unique as the original semi gloss OD is coming through then the MERDC, and finally what I believe is the 383 CARC green. I was kicking around a paint job however the history of service surfacing seems too awesome to cover. Thinking of just touching up the rust here and there and maybe new stencils. Would like to uncover some original unit markings however unmatched they may be for the bumpers and hoods were changed like underwear I'm sure haha. I'll post some pics of the paint.
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
So after My compression testing I discovered two head gasket leaks and two exhaust leaks. Took head to local engine shop with literature pulled from TM's. Shop has been in business for 30+ years. The two lower mount bolts for the intake manifold were missing. Threads appeared to be shot. One hole shot on the exhaust manifold bolts and I snapped another. Just waiting for the head to return. In the mean time I am going to clean up the deck, Remove the radiator... speaking of the rad, the two lower mounting bolts have spun free not allowing the lock nuts to be removed easily so once it is removed it is being sent out for a refurb.
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
It turns out I have an early style head on my engine. Thanks goes out to rickf and the members of G838 forum for helping me identify some parts. Not too sure what the key differences in the head are though?
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Well the head is done. Checked out great and had a valve job done. One of the exhaust valve boss's threads are jacked but the head itself is fine. Just need to thread a bolt through. Dropped the Rad off at a local shop to get cleaned up and I am in the process of ordering new gaskets, rubber mounts, Rad bolts, set of belts and other misc parts. Will post pics when I'm done with my shift.
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Been awhile but the update is, the head is on with a new thermostat, belts, rad cleaned, hoses, and rubber fuel lines. Had to shorten the exhaust just fore of the rear suspension till I order a new pipe kit. No leaks found on the head. Cleaned up the spark plugs and I have been driving her back and forth to work with about 5 min of free way time. Next on the agenda is to pull the power pack as I suspect some of the rubber mounts need replaced. The exhaust is right on the corner of the oil drain plug which makes it a PITA to remove. Plus the power pack needs cleaned and repainted. New exhaust, batt floor will need some work, ball joints, and now shocks due to oil seeping from the rears. But she runs good and drives well.
 
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