First start of a MEP-002, do's and don'ts?

[Mike929]

I have been away for a while and trying, unsuccessfully to find the do's and don'ts of starting a surplus sourced mep002.

All i remember is that if i do it wrong i will fry yhe stock voltage regular.

Do you start it, and then adjust the throttle, or should the throttle be turned up so it comes up to speed quickly??

Fill free to tell me to read a TM, but please include which one to read. Dash##?

Thanks for any help

 

[Dock Rocker]

It needs to start at operating RPM. It breaks my heart to do that but it is the proper way to start it.
You will need to pull the throttle approximately 3/4 of the way out from the all the way in position. Once running you can set the rpm to the correct level for 60 hz.

If it’s been a while since it ran make sure you have good, fully charged batteries. Make sure you have good fuel. I would definitely drain the tank from the bottom drain in the tank. Look in the tank with a flashlight and make sure it’s relatively clean and fill it with fresh gas. I am a bit nerdy and I would do an oil and filter change as well.


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[DieselAddict]

If I get one that I've not seen before I do a few things.
1. I disconnect the fuel line upstream of the pump and put it in a small container of fresh fuel. Disconnect the fuel return line and put it in a separate container.
2. check the oil and see if it looks OK. It it doesn't have any obvious problems like it looks like a milk shake or its thin like water I'll not change it (yet).
3. prime the fuel system with clean fuel from the small container - look for leaks. Look at how the returning fuel looks. Prime until its clean.
4. assuming no fuel leaks, the oil is OK enough, spin it over with the dead crank switch for about 10 seconds. Do this twice with a break in between so you don't overheat the starter.
5. start it normally and if its not at speed get it to rpm. Look for any signs of trouble. Smoke, vibration, etc. I'll only run it like this for a couple min.

I didn't mention coolant because at this point its not the main concern. I will always check it to see what it looks like but whether it has coolant or not isn't important. I don't run it long enough to overheat anything on this first test run.

In my opinion doing a couple of test cranks with the dead crank switch is really important. If you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge that you can put into the fitting for the oil pressure sender I strongly encourage you do do it. Look for some pressure before starting the engine.

If we get this far without any red flags I'll do a full service (drain, clean, filters, flush, etc).

 

[Mike929]

Thanks for the help.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Biggest thing is never idle them, That is what kills the regulators

 

[NDT]

I might add you won’t need to add coolant ever and don’t add gas either.

 

[Triple Jim]

Biggest thing is never idle them, That is what kills the regulators

Actually while that's true for many generators, it's not true for the 002A and 003A. The regulator controls the generator output by passing a small control current through the control winding of CVT1, causing its output to the exciter field to be reduced. This means that if you run below 1,800 rpm the regulator will see the low output and reduce its output current to CVT1 to allow it to produce full exciter field current.

I've proven this by putting a regulator output current meter on the front panel of my 003A. The regulator works hardest when running higher than 1,800 rpm, but still not particularly hard since it's only a small control current and not field current that it's supplying.

The most I've gotten the meter to read was about 0.4 amps with the engine running as fast as I could adjust it. When running as slow as the adjustment goes, the regulator output is near zero.

 

[Mike929]

I might add you won’t need to add coolant ever and don’t add gas either.

I assumed he thought it was one of the newer water cooled, and meant to say fuel.

Appreciate all the good information and help.

 

[robertsears1]

After it starts, and my 003 really loves preheat, keep holding the switch in start for several seconds until the oil pressure stabilizes. I had never seen engines start this way but that is how you do it. It will not hurt anything. Obviously, if you hear the starter grinding, let go since things are out of adjustment.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Also in addition to above, I would suggest the following not knowing its history:

1. Open the front control panel and look inside for anything unusual: Loose parts laying in bottom of cabinet, loose or cut wires, burnt wires or components, missing components, etc.

2. Verify it has all its filters in place: Fuel pump screens in bottom of fuel pumps & they are clean, fuel filters installed, oil filter installed...I bought a unit from a guy who said his mechanic had just completely serviced the unit but...I found it was missing its oil filter element.

3. Take off the side of the AC Distribution box and look inside. Any mouse nests, loose or burnt wires, everything tight?

4. Raise the Close to Run cover and look at cylinder fins makeing sure they aren't blocked with any debris.

5. Gently lift open the Cooling Shutters a bit to make sure no critter nests inside.

6. Check all chassis gnd straps for continuity/corrosion

7. Earth grounding of unit? SDS vs House?

 

[Scoobyshep]

Get a good look at the motor mounts too.

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[Chainbreaker]

Another thought... if units were not mothballed properly and have sat with any residual fuel in them there's a chance that the "injection pump plunger guide" could be stuck. If you try to crank it over there is some risk of breaking the plunger guide if its stuck.

There is a procedure (can't remember the exact sequence off the top of my head) for turning over the engine by hand with socket wrench on fan wheel end and inspecting the plunger guide mechanism for movement. Do a search in this forum for something like "MEP-002a MEP-003a stuck plunger guide" and I'm sure there will be a thread that pops up describing exactly how to do this. IIRC, it involves removing the cap on the injection pump and looking for in/out movement. It also explains how to unstick (involves use of a brass punch) if stuck.

Also, others have had good success prepping a generator for its first out of moth balls run by putting in injector cleaner type solvent like Seafoam. The tip is to fill up the last fuel filter cannister with straight Seafoam, or equivalent, and priming the pump with solvent into the fuel return line and letting it sit overnight to help dissolve any gummed up deposits throughout the system including injectors.

 

[DieselAddict]

I might add you won’t need to add coolant ever and don’t add gas either.

Ha! You got me there.