First step - cab rebuild

[montaillou]

I've had a list of things I've wanted to do to the deuce since I bought the thing and I've just taken the first big step and hired a guy to rebuild the cab from the doors up. It's essentially just gonna be a copy of the existing cab with some modifications.

I've decided to make the cab 4 inches higher, in case I want to mount something above the front windows. The height is somewhat arbitrary as I was just thinking of a 2x4. I'm also having the roof reinforced to approx. 1,000 lbs to support a rooftop rack (also to be built at this time) and whatever's gonna be in it.

The back window will be removed and an access hatch installed - I want to be able to pass through the cab to the back. I plan on enclosing the space behind the cab (with a flexible material) so I'm not worried about bringing light from that direction.

10 gauge steel will be used for the back wall area, and 16 gauge for the roof, along with flat tubing for the reinforcing. I'm using the 10 gauge because I just want a little heavier duty because of plans on attaching more items to the back wall.

Later, I'll have a HVAC unit installed on the back wall (outside).

I expect this part of the project to cost ~$2k.

I'll ask the guy to take some pics along the way so I can post them here.

If anyone wants to provide some input, I'd welcome it.

 

[Prospector GM]

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[yolner]

Looks like a very interesting project. Im sitting on a brand new cab that im also hoping to mod a bit before it goes on the truck. Mainly a DIY hardtop and roof rack. Hope you post some progress pics.

 

[tobyS]

I'm a bit confused, are you talking about a cab extension off the back of the cab?

 

[montaillou]

I'm a bit confused, are you talking about a cab extension off the back of the cab?

No, I'm talking about replacing the cab with another cab this is essentially a copy of the existing cab but for the modifications I listed above.

I'm not extending the floor space or making that part bigger, just the ceiling height (now I'm thinking about 6 inches just to make it a little easier to move around).

Not exactly to scale, but the drawing should make it more clear. The first pic is what it looks like now, the second is an approximation of what will be done.


Again, not saying it's gonna look like this, just that this is a representation of the added height. I want to be able to move about the cab more freely including, climbing through a hatch in the back wall to the bed and also to hang things from the ceiling or mount above the windows.

It should be noted that I plan on putting a approximately 7 foot tall camper in the back in the future. In the drawing the total height of the truck with cover is 9' 4", when I'm done my truck should be over 11' (probably around 11' 6").

So, my new cab height should be approximately 104 inches, I'll be adding a rack to this which will be carrying items (ie: jerry cans, etc.). Jerry cans are just over 18 inches. If the rack is ~1 inch above the roof, this will give me a over 30 inches of space to carry items and still be below the roof line of the back box. I don't know what I'm gonna carry, just that I want that option.

 

[montaillou]

Update:

Cab came off yesterday (3/26) and welder told me 2 weeks.

What he's doing for me:

1)He pulled the cab off and will be using it for a model for new cab. He'll also handle the installation of the new cab and all the other work below.

2)New cab will be 6 inches taller than old cab - I'm doing this to give me more room to move about inside and also to mount items above the windshield or hang from the ceiling.

3)Roof will be reinforced to 1,000 lbs and a roof rack added - he's building and attaching the roof rack, it'll also have tie downs. He suggested some more supports (one on each side) of the center post of the windshield to help with the weight load.

4)A access hatch, right of center (as you face the back of the cab), behind the drivers seat will be added. This is will be approximately, 18" wide and 34" tall. A portion of the lower part of the cab will be cut away to the height of the back bed rail to accommodate the hatch height. The idea being that I will slide the driver's seat forward and be able to step through the hatch into the bed in back. The reason the hatch is off center is mostly because I plan on storing a spare tire in the bed right behind the passenger seat and if the hatch was in the middle of the cab the spare tire would block the passageway.

5)New battery box, modeled after the old one which is severely rusting out the bottom. I suggested a slightly heavier gauge of metal.

Total cost: $2,500

 

[tobyS]

Please add some in-process photo's. The roof rack sounds a lot like something I had planned, but I have about 32" behind the cab also (after adding M105 bed).

Hope all goes smoothly for you.

 

[montaillou]

Got the new battery box, it's done with a thicker gauge of steel, will take twice as long to rust out! (hopefully) I wanted to put 3 batteries and wasn't sure if the plastic box would fit them, also, I didn't really like the look of the plastic box and it probably cost me the same or even a little cheaper to have a new steel box welded up.



Now, to either find a sliding tray (not likely) or some undermount sliders. I'm looking at these currently (I think the smallest size should just fit, fitment could be a little tricky), expect them to not be cheap. Still looking though, I'm gonna need something that can support at least 200 lbs and close to full extension.

Found these sliders, think they may be the best option. They're rated at just under 150# each (2 should do the trick), 12 inches long with a 13 inch extension. They're pricier than the ones in the above sentence but I think these are better suited.

I decided to go with these slides. I'll need 2 sets (for the weight load), but the mounting is narrow enough to mount on the side L brackets and a pair in the middle on the flat rails. It was the cheapest solution I could find, with shipping, ~$120. The combined capacity should be around 300#

 

[montaillou]

So, my first welder bailed on me, and after calling EVERY welder/fabricator in town and some in the next (I need to live in a more depressed area), I found a guy who restores hot rods who said he could fit me in.



He showed me a mock up of the roof done with cardboard, the metal is out being cut and I expect it to be mostly done by next week sometime.

 

[Fredo Corleone]

Looks like 5 ton with ROPS

 

[SCM35A2]

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[montaillou]

Asked the guy for an update yesterday, he sent over some pics and I dropped by to take some more. He got the top back from being laser cut and was mounting it. He had an engine hoist in the bed to hold it in place so he could get it all situated properly and tack it. He'll be adding an internal frame as well as the roof rack next.

Also asked him to put in some new seats I got from someone here (from a HEMMT). Both seats have shoulder belts which I wanted and also replacing the bench seat for more room. While I'm ok with the stock driver's seat, I thought it'd be nice if the seats matched. The driver's seat will need some customization as well so it can move as far forward to give access to the back wall hatch.


You can see in the last pic (from the front), he's got a little scissor jack to push up the center of the roof.

And finally, asked him to install a "cuff" from the roof to steady the exhaust stack - I'm forever hitting branches and want to steady it a little more. It will still be able to break off if something big enough hits it, but I'm tired of twigs knocking it around.

 

[montaillou]

Got the truck back, today.
The roof rack is 18 inches tall. The stack height is about where I expect the top of my camper will be when it's built. The guy didn't put the HEMMT seats in because he couldn't figure out how to do it. He didn't even put in the passenger seat - I suspect he just wanted to be done with the job. Oh well, I think I can figure this part out.
When sitting in the driver's seat I can just put my palm flat on the ceiling. I probably could've gone up 2 more inches but beyond that I might've had trouble reaching anything attached up there - it is easier to move around inside.
The opening behind the driver's seat is 20" x 32"



I'll admit it doesn't look real pretty, but it's like a house, if you spend most of your time on the inside, what does it matter? Oh, and just a little trivia, the truck doesn't fit in my driveway - I'm one tire width on my neighbor's property.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Montaillou, that can usually be fixed with a peace offering of a 6-pack to the neighbour (and a juicy burger from the BBQ to go with it, if so inclined!) I am sure you already took action!

Are you at all concerned with overall height? The cab plus rack appears higher than, let's say, a stock M109 with box. Not that these trucks like wheeling in the woods to start with...too wide.

The cab work looks well done and I like the idea of making the cab roomier and having a pass-through/climb-through to a camper mounted to the back. Not my thing, personally, but I like how you approach it.

 

[montaillou]

I bribe the neighbor with cookies and candies from time to time.

Height isn't a consideration because once I build the camper I'll be even higher! Most bridges in the US have a 13' clearance and I'll be around 11' when I'm done - if need be, I'll take another route. As to trips in the woods, I do plan on going there I just have to be more careful. Also, with the strength of the rack and cab now, I could hit a few small branches and be fine.

I wanted to move from the camper to the cab w/out having to get dressed.

I am planning on semi-enclosing the space directly behind the cab, not sure exactly how yet, maybe something on tracks.

 

[rustystud]

I think that will work great for what you need it for Monty !
Also hears a big shout out to you for being a really great guy ! That hard top I got from you today is really going to come in handy !
Again Thanks so much Monty !
Rustystud.

 

[montaillou]

Got sidetracked working on some other upgrades now back to working on the cab - though full disclosure, most of the work is being done by a mechanic friend.

Finished up the Dynamat on the interior as well as the engine side firewall. New weatherstripping. Replaced the front seat with HMMT seat. I need the seat to move forward to the steering wheel and to accomplish this it sits on sliders I found that have a 12" slide. Need the room so I can enter a hatch installed, off center, mostly behind the driver's seat. It's off center because I plan on carrying a spare tire behind the passenger side of the cab.

I got a jump seat for the passenger side. Don't expect it to get much use, When the seat is up, it's only 8" deep, I plan to use the open space for my dog.

Still trying to figure out where all the electronics will go (amplifier, speakers, fold down monitor, controller for the cameras, inverter. Once that is done, another layer of 1.25" sound insulation will go in.

More stuff being done, but this is what's going on right now.

 

[yolner]

Nice. Mind sharing the part # for the jump seat? Looking for something similar for my build.

 

[montaillou]

part # for the jump seat

It's Jump Seat 10, from suburbanseats.com