• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

First tank WMO and engine quits!

stampy

Active member
1,321
22
38
Location
Henderson. NC
If they are not getting any fuel to the injectors? My CUCV will NOT run on just either I have fogged the snorkel (I have a ram air setup so cold air gets pulled in from the front of the truck) and more either just made it hard to turn over ( ie hard on the valves etc) Even though the snorkel will distribute less of a "hit" of either as it has to blend with air and goes through the air filter too it still wouldn't run with no diesel to the injectors. I have successfully run gasoline engines on only either
 

reloader64

Active member
377
138
43
Location
Liberty Hill, Texas
I was shooting the ether straight into the intake manifold, no long intake tubes or air filters in the way. I also found that too much ether before turning the starter creates incredible cylinder pressure, to the tune of not turning over at all. A little shot to make it fire up, and then a tiny little burst when it starts to die (feathering?) would keep it running. Also, this was a 4 cylinder engine on a trencher. Maybe that makes a difference.

Scott
 
Last edited:

197thhhc

Active member
1,067
15
38
Location
Williamsburg, OHIO
Glad you found the issue. I didnt think it was because of the waste oil. As long as you change your fuel filters regularly You shouldnt have any problems. I run 45 gallons of oil and add 5 gallons of gas and have had no issues even in winter.

Good luck on your repair.
 

dodgedougak

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
418
0
0
Location
Joseph, OR
Just an update on this problem. I was able to get a new hydraulic head from a guy in Olympia, WA. (He deals in Buda diesel parts so some of them must use the same pump). Anyhow, got home last night and went to work on the M35A2 this afternoon. The hydraulic head gears did have a tooth that was scribed, but not painted red. I used a paint pen and marked that tooth. I reused the thrust button and keeper from the old unit, as well as the fuel pipe fittings front and back. I used two new O-rings on the hydraulic head and got it set down in the body, with the red tooth timed to the arrow on the case. I installed the shut down shaft, being careful to line up the slot in the shutdown collar with the small rotating lever in the end of the shut down shaft. I used a new O-ring on that shaft. I lock wired the appropriate screws in the shut down box, put the keeper on the shut down push pull rod and reinstalled the cover. Then I reconnected the shut down cable to the control. After that it was just a matter of putting the lines back on and checking everything. I ran the electric fuel pump and cranked the engine for a few seconds. Then I finished tightening the high pressure fuel lines at the injectors. When I again cranked the engine, it fired up after maybe 5 seconds of cranking. It ran great, idled nicely and showed about 65 psi on the fuel gauge I had installed at the vent on top of the secondary fuel filters! Now to recheck that all is tight and no leaks, then put the left fender back on again.
Thanks to all the great folks who helped with posts here and to Brad in Mckenna, WA for his phone help. Now I can finish getting the truck serviced, outfitted and ready for the AC12 convoy to Alaska this summer. I am hoping to make the Arlington, WA display in July, prior to the Aug AC12.
Doug
 

dodgedougak

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
418
0
0
Location
Joseph, OR
I really don't know if the WMO contributed, but I am doubting it. There are too many folks here that are running even straight WMO. I filtered all of this oil multiple times using a 1 micron filter and a water separator. Then it still had to pass through primary and secondary fuel filters. When I started it up last night, it fired right up and I have run it several times today. No road test yet, but it idles and revs good. That is using the same WMO and diesel mix that was in the tank when it quit running. So, I am hoping that it was just an anomaly. I have not had the truck long, so have no idea of what the IP has digested or for how long. Anyhow, I am crossing my fingers and going to run it!
 

dodgedougak

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
418
0
0
Location
Joseph, OR
Long test drive

Final update on this problem. Seattle Injector found that a lever-type part inside the hydraulic head had broken and caused the IP to quit working. I took the truck south to Puget Sound on the Alaska Ferry and it seemed to run good. I was still running the WMO/diesel oil mix, so that was not the problem. I had a couple of high pressure fuel line leaks, which we fixed and a leak at the manifold heater. I removed and plugged that manifold heater line, as I have never used it. I drove from Bellingham, WA to Tacoma area which is about 100 miles. Then I ran Tacoma to Spokane, which is 300 miles. It ran great! I have 11.00 X 20's on it right now and was able to run 55+ most of the way. It slowed to 35-40 mph in 4th gear on the steep parts. I have to look at possibly turning the fuel up a little? I want to get my pyro gage in before I do that. Is this normal performance?
 
Top