First time Humvee owner, lifetime admirer w/ a Q...

[OrangeElvis]

...
There's no relays behind instrument panel...only circuit breakers.
That 1097A2 has a relay behind battery box inside of panel which is 24v activated and routes 12v to trans computer...relays do stick on sometimes
with Ignition turned off.
Trans light forward of shifter turns on when ignition is turned on....and should shut off when truck is started or shut off.
If light stays on when Ignition is off...relay is sticking on.
What color is label and box under dash.....Start box ?

So, head-scratcher here. I double-checked and yes, the light stays on when ignition/run switch are off... but BARELY. I took pictures with it fully lit with ignition on and switch set to run (but not started) and with everything off (portrait photo is ON & landscape photo is OFF):


What does that even mean? It is BARELY stuck open, lol? Is there a way to "unstick" it - some kind of reset button?

Also, I am guessing this is what you meant by "start box" under the dash?:

 

[Mogman]

If you are going to run a large 12V load you will need an inverter, do not unbalance your system with two batteries running in parallel in series with the other 12V battery which is what I think you are talking about, the 12V (14V tap) on that regulator should not be used for large 12V loads, as I said use a 24V-12V inverter instead, it is common wisdom that you cannot replace the mechanical fan with an electric one, the original mechanical fan move several times more air than the electric ones available.

 

[OrangeElvis]

If you are going to run a large 12V load you will need an inverter, do not unbalance your system with two batteries running in parallel in series with the other 12V battery which is what I think you are talking about, the 12V (14V tap) on that regulator should not be used for large 12V loads, as I said use a 24V-12V inverter instead, it is common wisdom that you cannot replace the mechanical fan with an electric one, the original mechanical fan move several times more air than the electric ones available.

OK - so, my plan was to run FOUR 12V batteries. Two new Hawkers in series and two in parallel the previous owner had installed in series. Is that what you thought I was talking about?

Also, I am going to be running four electric fans - two already installed to replace the mechanical "puller" fan and two "pusher" fans on top of cooler. You think the mechanical fan is better than four electric fans?

 

[Mogman]

OK - so, my plan was to run FOUR 12V batteries. Two new Hawkers in series and two in parallel the previous owner had installed in series. Is that what you thought I was talking about?

How to you plan on charging the two batteries in parallel?? you cannot just connect them in parallel with the low side Hawker

 

[OrangeElvis]

How to you plan on charging the two batteries in parallel?? you cannot just connect them in parallel with the low side Hawker

I was going to run the 14V output from regulator to the two batteries in parallel and then run all 12V systems off of those two batteries - leaving the Hawkers to run all 24V systems. I have a feeling this is a stupid idea - by the tone of your question, lol.

 

[Mogman]

IMHO that is a very bad idea, the original intention of the 14V tap (what it is called on the reg) was to balance the additional load on the low side battery caused by the transmission computer, it was never intended to run additional loads, you could use it to power a modest radio but nothing what you are talking about.
Leave it to do the job it was meant for and balance to voltage on the Hawkers, use an inverter for any large 12V load, if you want a winch get a 24V one.

 

[Mogman]

Before doing anything go and price a replacement regulator, you will get very conservative very fast.
EDIT

N3135 / 01-483-2291 / 2920-01-483-2291 - REGULATOR, ENGINE GENERATOR (100 & 200 AMP REMAN) [NIEHOFF] | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

 

[OrangeElvis]

IMHO that is a very bad idea, the original intention of the 14V tap (what it is called on the reg) was to balance the additional load on the low side battery caused by the transmission computer, it was never intended to run additional loads, you could use it to power a modest radio but nothing what you are talking about.
Leave it to do the job it was meant for and balance to voltage on the Hawkers, use an inverter for any large 12V load, if you want a winch get a 24V one.

Well, OK! Thank you for keeping out of trouble! Glad I asked. Any advantage to the additional two batteries? I hate for them to go to waste...

I for sure was going to get a 24V winch - as well as AC. Any recommendations on inverters? I am looking to (eventually) put some sound bars in there and run 1,500-2k watts or so (max capability - probably never go more than half that much).

 

[OrangeElvis]

Before doing anything go and price a replacement regulator, you will get very conservative very fast.

Yeah, tell me about it. Once I confirm 200 A generator is good I will go shopping. I already looked at prices, which is why I thought a NEW 400 amp generator WITH new regulator was such a great deal at almost the same price as just a new regulator for my 200 amp.

 

[OrangeElvis]

Sounds like the regulators only put out 50 amps at 12V. Didn't know that when I bought the 400 amp beast.

 

[OrangeElvis]

Before doing anything go and price a replacement regulator, you will get very conservative very fast.
EDIT

N3135 / 01-483-2291 / 2920-01-483-2291 - REGULATOR, ENGINE GENERATOR (100 & 200 AMP REMAN) [NIEHOFF] | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

Do the 400 amp regulators ever work for 200 amp, like the 200 amps do for the 100 amp?

 

[Mogman]

Yeah, tell me about it. Once I confirm 200 A generator is good I will go shopping. I already looked at prices, which is why I thought a NEW 400 amp generator WITH new regulator was such a great deal at almost the same price as just a new regulator for my 200 amp.

You are not the only one in Liberty Hill that has a HMMWV, there is another member on here.
I lived in Liberty Hill in the late 60s, early 70s, we had a crank telephone system and was on a party line with several other folks.
The intersection of 29 and 183 was a 4 way stop sign and we had one blinking light in Liberty Hill

Yes on the listed 50A but common wisdom is not to pull more than 15-20A MAX. and even then only intermittently
Take care and disconnect the batteries every time you do electrical work and be VERY careful of polarity and the alt/reg will have no issues.

A couple other things, any time you are working on the truck where you are switching the run switch on and off disconnect the TSU (temp sending unit) for the glow plugs, it is the round connector with several wires attached on the passenger side of the water cross over on the front of the engine.

Otherwise under normal conditions EVERY time you turn the run switch to OFF, wait at least 90 seconds before switching to run again or you can fry the glow plugs.

 

[Mogman]

Do the 400 amp regulators ever work for 200 amp, like the 200 amps do for the 100 amp?

Unfortunately no.

 

[Mogman]

Here is a link to the TMs you will need, the first 7 on the left side applies to your truck.
It is highly advised to read the -10 operator manual, it is long and tedious but can save you BIG bucks in the long run.

HMMWV - High-Mobility Military Wheeled Vehicle (HUMVEE)

The HMMWV is a 4x4 All-Terrain Military Vehicle introduced by the US Army in 1984 also know as Humvee. With over 300,000 units produced and in active service with 70+ countries as well as in civilian use.

www.nsnlookup.com

 

[OrangeElvis]

So, I opened up my blinker-thingy ("assembly"?) and have some fried wires.. Tried stripping and reconnecting but still nada. Guess I add that to the list of crap I need to order, lol.

 

[Hummer Guy]

I would like to add if your generator still isn't charging, the clutch pulley is another thing to look at before replacing the generator, I've had 2 of these fail on me in the past. My first time experiencing this, I thought it was the whole generator and ended up replacing the whole thing when it was just the pulley.

 

[Coug]

if it hasn't been linked yet, here is the manufacturer troubleshooting guide for the 200 amp system. Pretty easy to figure out if you know how to use a multimeter

https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

 

[TOBASH]

Looks like Neihoff 3135. Make sure it’s not a bad regulator prior to placing that 400 amp monstrosity.

 

[TOBASH]

OK - so, my plan was to run FOUR 12V batteries. Two new Hawkers in series and two in parallel the previous owner had installed in series. Is that what you thought I was talking about?

Also, I am going to be running four electric fans - two already installed to replace the mechanical "puller" fan and two "pusher" fans on top of cooler. You think the mechanical fan is better than four electric fans?

Never replace the mechanical puller fan. It is the biggest disaster and mistake you can ever make. The electric fans do not create enough air flow and will never be able to make enough air flow with today’s technology. Be warned.

 

[Coug]

There is a guy that made electric cooling fans work (or so he says)
What he did though was separated out every item in the cooling stack to different locations, and each of them got their own cooling fans.

The stock fan is designed to move something like 15k cfm of air.
I haven't found many electric fans that will move more than 2 -3k cfm of air.
It's also an old an inefficient engine and cooling design, so can't really be compared to the modern engines using electric cooling.