Fixing the 1998 HMMWV

[mrandig]

Now back to the present day...

Well, that's it. Looks like I'm all out of excuses. There is nothing left to do but put the radiator back in and connect some hoses. And add some fluids - can't forget that.

 

[mrandig]

Just when I thought I had run out of excuses to get this project finished.

That new radiator is bent to s**t at the upper hose connection. This didn't happen here, and the box has no damage, which means it was packed and shipped like that.

Kids, this is the reason you check your orders upon receipt. This photo was taken back in June, and I just didn't see it at the time.

 

[mrandig]

I just couldn't let another day pass because of the radiator. Not after it's been this long.

Time to improvise. This tool is used to expand exhaust pipe and keep it round at the same time.


The process was ugly, so ugly I'm not showing it here. As long as nobody sees what's hiding under the hose, we'll be OK.

Needless to say, the problem is fixed.


Right side.


Left side.


Done.


Last thing I need to do is figure out the clamping situation for these blue silicone hoses, and then we'll be ready to fire this thing up.

 

[mrandig]

Well, the damaged radiator couldn't stop me, but the hose clamps did.

The standard "worm" clamps, which I have a ton of, kept tearing this blue heater hose to shreds. Being after 5:30pm on a Sunday, my options were few-and-far between. If I kept experimenting, I was worried I wouldn't have enough left over by the time I finally figured out a solution.


For reference, the replacement hose is by Flexfab 5526-038.


I'm sure there's a simpler and easier solution, but I finally just ordered a few of the clamps recommended by the manufacturer. They should be here in a few days.

Until then, there's enough small things to do to keep me busy.

 

[mrandig]

Looking for some feedback.

I've only got a few small items left, so I might as well knock these out while I wait for my fancy hose clamps.

I wasn't able to route the oil cooler hoses properly until now, as the cooling stack just got installed a few days ago. Of course, this would be the one time I didn't take enough pictures, and now I don't remember the exact routing. The -20 and -24P are OK for this, but both could be a little clearer.

Here's a quick rundown of the new hoses and how they're installed. Let me know if anything looks funky or weird.

Hose connections at radiator.


1st clamp at firewall


2nd clamp


Routing past exhaust


Hose connections at engine block (from straight below).



Thanks in advance!

 

[Mogman]

Well, the damaged radiator couldn't stop me, but the hose clamps did.

The standard "worm" clamps, which I have a ton of, kept tearing this blue heater hose to shreds. Being after 5:30pm on a Sunday, my options were few-and-far between. If I kept experimenting, I was worried I wouldn't have enough left over by the time I finally figured out a solution.
View attachment 955215

For reference, the replacement hose is by Flexfab 5526-038.
View attachment 955216

I'm sure there's a simpler and easier solution, but I finally just ordered a few of the clamps recommended by the manufacturer. They should be here in a few days.

Until then, there's enough small things to do to keep me busy.
View attachment 955217

That is one reason I stay away from that new fangled fancy stuff, plain ol Goodyear hose has serviced me well for the last 50 years

 

[Mogman]

Looking for some feedback.

I've only got a few small items left, so I might as well knock these out while I wait for my fancy hose clamps.

I wasn't able to route the oil cooler hoses properly until now, as the cooling stack just got installed a few days ago. Of course, this would be the one time I didn't take enough pictures, and now I don't remember the exact routing. The -20 and -24P are OK for this, but both could be a little clearer.

Here's a quick rundown of the new hoses and how they're installed. Let me know if anything looks funky or weird.

Hose connections at radiator.
View attachment 955344

1st clamp at firewall
View attachment 955345

2nd clamp
View attachment 955346

Routing past exhaust
View attachment 955347

Hose connections at engine block (from straight below).
View attachment 955348


Thanks in advance!

Looks like you are getting a little too close to the exhaust with that cooler hose

 

[mrandig]

That is one reason I stay away from that new fangled fancy stuff, plain ol Goodyear hose has serviced me well for the last 50 years

Agreed. It would have been easier, quicker, and definitely cheaper to not get involved with this stuff. I will never touch it again.

I do not recommend.

 

[mrandig]

Looks like you are getting a little too close to the exhaust with that cooler hose

Thank you. This was exactly the input I was looking for.

I was thinking the same thing. Right now, I have about a "knuckle" of space, so maybe 1" of clearance. I'll loosen everything up again and see what I can do to free up some slack, but it's pretty tight already. I doubt if I can get much more.

 

[mrandig]

Look what came in the mail yesterday.

These are among the most expensive hose clamps I've ever owned.


They look nice enough. They're smooth-side clamps, so they shouldn't tear up these new silicone hoses.


The clamps only took a fraction of a second to install, but the torque needed to tighten down the hoses was suspicious. I'm assuming it is because of the hose material, but 35 in-lbs. seems like an awful lot for such a small clamp. Any less than that and the hoses were still slipping around on their fittings.


Ok then. I guess we'll have to see what happens.

 

[Mogman]

Look what came in the mail yesterday.

These among the most expensive hose clamps I've ever owned.
View attachment 955481

They look nice enough. They're smooth-side clamps, so they shouldn't tear up these new silicone hoses.
View attachment 955482

The clamps only took a fraction of a second to install, but the torque needed to tighten down the hose was suspicious. I'm assuming it is because of the hose material, but 35 in-lbs. seems like an awful lot for such a small clamp. Any less than that and the hoses were still slipping around on their fittings.
View attachment 955484

Ok then. I guess we'll have to see what happens.

View attachment 955485

The good thing about silicone hoses is they are slippery so they are easy to get off, the bad thing about silicone hoses is they are slippery and hard to keep on.

 

[mrandig]

The good thing about silicone hoses is they are slippery so they are easy to get off, the bad thing about silicone hoses is they are slippery and hard to keep on.

When these come flying off, which will be at the worst possible moment, I'm definitely going back to rubber.

 

[juanprado]

Everything is a trade off. Quality silicone hoses will last much longer and survive higher temps. They have multiple reinforced layers more than plain heater hose. Silicone will not turn hard if sitting up for years with out use. They will also not balloon and swell up on the ends as fast or easily. But as noted ,require the correct double looped clamps. Larger sizes require the torque to yield with springs.

All about $ and expectations. You will find silicone almost exclusively in the hd world.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Everything is a trade off. Quality silicone hoses will last much longer and survive higher temps. They have multiple reinforced layers more than plain heater hose. Silicone will not turn hard if sitting up for years with out use. They will also not balloon and swell up on the ends as fast or easily. But as noted ,require the correct double looped clamps. Larger sizes require the torque to yield with springs.

All about $ and expectations. You will find silicone almost exclusively in the hd world.

ON POINT! Great stuff when used correctly. Commercial truck shops have this stuff in stock, be forewarned they like it a lot...$$$$$

 

[mrandig]

Let's see if we can try out these new hoses.

I'm just going to fill the system with distilled water for the moment. We'll bring the engine up to temp and see what happens. If it does leak, I'd just as soon it leaks water, rather than coolant.


With any luck, assuming the water doesn't come pouring out, then we'll put in some radiator flush and run that for a few additional days. While there's been a lot of parts replaced, the engine block and heater core haven't, and these are still going to be filled with crud.

It's one bottle for every three gallons of water, so my maths tell me I need two.


Once it's been tested with water, and then flushed with Blue Devil, we'll then fill this truck up with a proper mix of coolant and call this "to-do" item finally "done".

 

[mrandig]

In a previous post, I had a suspicion that the water crossover was cracked at the heater hose fitting. It didn't take long to prove I was correct. I didn't even have to start the truck, and water was already pouring out.


Also, remember to close the draincock on the lower radiator hose. IYKYK.

I'm glad now that I had only filled this truck with distilled water. And I also made sure I had a mop handy.

Back to the interweb to order another new part (#12554901), and another wait.

 

[mrandig]

Parts are here. Back to work.

I did not realize that the replacement water crossover was a used part, but that's my fault for not reading; the product description said it was a takeoff.


Of course, this won't be as simple as shown in the -20, but nothing has ever been.

First, I'll remove the connections to the voltage regulator and alternator. Not the small wires, just the two cables that run over the top of the water crossover.


Then remove the crankcase breather hose and lower water crossover hose. Of course, the later isn't giving up without a fight.


Then take off the new hoses I just put on.


I also want to get the water neck and the fittings off the crossover while it's still installed, so I'm not fighting these on a workbench. I feel like the connector for the glow plug controller will break if I get to handsy with it, so I'll need to figure out what I'm doing and careful.


I may need to take a break for a while. It's been a long day.

 

[mrandig]

Taking a break was just what I needed.

The fan temperature switch and glow plug controller are now both out.


3 out of 4 bolts removed. Just one more bolt and we can pull this crossover out.


Just...One...More...

I can't even see the stupid thing, let alone get a wrench on it.

 

[mrandig]

Finally.

That was harder than it should have been. I got the last bolt out with a "stubby" 15mm, but I have no idea how I'm going to get it back in and torqued to spec.

Here's everything out.


The crack in the water crossover is really easy to see now.


Left side cleaned. I think I may have lost a bit of gasket down there.


Right cleaned. Only took about 5 tries. The pics make it really easy to see.


Now, I guess the next question is up or down?


I'm going to put my money on the sealing ring facing up.