Fixing the Model H82/83 Engineered Air Systems Heaters

MusgroveM

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Terre Haute, IN
I got mine out and it did the same thing. The high amp draw is due to the start winding not dropping out after the normal opperating speed is reached. There is a cintrifical switch in the motor that tells the start windings to dissengage. Mine doesn't trip the breaker all the time. there is a 1ohm, 120watt,+-1% resistor, gold AHR (aluminum housed resistor) in the H83 mine reads open. I ordered 1 on ebay. I'll let you know if it fixes it.
 

epitts

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Terre Haute, Indiana
I have a H81 heater I got out of Ft Knox, only had one hour on the meter. Finely fired it up to day for the first time. After spitting a few time to clear the air in the lines, it ran like a champ. Ran it for about an hour no problems. Very happy camper here!
 

Isaac-1

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Well it looks like I am the newest one to this club, just bought an H82 with 2 hours showing on the meter from Ft Polk today, they had a couple of dozen listed, mine went for $220, some went as low as $200. No ducting included though. Does anyone know the duct size off hand?

Ike
 

MusgroveM

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Congratz.... I started to bid, but couldn't justify the drive to LA. I've found that my H83 burns cleaner on kerosene than on diesel. Also it seamed to burn 2gals and hr on diesel and only 1gal an hr on kerosene. On start up, mine seams to want to trip out on flame failure due to air in the line. But about the 5th try it stays running. Also it runs better with the elbow attached to the exhaust. 16" duct is the size you are looking for, but get your pocket book out. I was quoted $17 per foot, so I went with flex duct at $3 a foot. I'll say one thing about it though, It keeps my Alaska Small shelter toasty.

Mike
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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Massey, The problem that I have found with the 4 heaters that I run that caused the same fault that you had, running a few minutes then trips the buzzer. The only thing that I have found that fixed the problem was adjust the flame detector so that it can 'see' straight down the tube. All 4 of mine came to me without functioning properly, I did the same as you.... adjust injector and spark, still couldnt make them run, until I, by accident pulled the flame detector tube from the burner manifold, it had a very small bend. I bent it straight and southern engineered the sensor to 'see' and stay straight with the tube.... voila, problem solved. No guarantees that would be your fix, but I spend ALOT of hours trying to get mine to work, and that was the only thing that fixed it.

The reasoning behind the hour meters being disconnected is addressed in the manual... TM-5-4520-256-14. page 3-16.4

"If the failure was in the R1 rectifier or TT hour meter, the heater will now operate in this manner. Ifmalfunction still exists, notify Direct Support Maintenance.

Rectifier and hour meter are not required for Army use and should be left disconnected."

 

155mm

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Another fix to these heaters that I have found, remove the 4 skrews that mount the K8 relay to the front panel, and let the K8 relay hang down in the return air flow. Also remove the mounting bracket and the cover that is held on with a single skrew. There is some resistor inside the relay (inside the plastic box with the reset button on top) that gets hot and trips the heater/buzzer. I have a problem child heater that could not get to run... kept getting red light of death and would not reset until I just left it hang, now it just throws a fit when the intake/return air temp gets above 70F
 

Isaac-1

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SW, Louisiana
Will try to get you a picture tomorrow, but it may be a couple of days depending on events here since the H82 is not here at my house.
 

155mm

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I will make the guess that the wires go to the hour meter. I will get a photo for you after breakfast.
 

Isaac-1

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Location
SW, Louisiana
I think there is something in the TM about disconnecting the hour meter because when it fails it can cause the heater to not operate.
 

Hard Head

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Greenville SC
I just got some H83's from Bragg and they were scavenged for parts. They had 8.9 and 1.8 hours on them. I looked at the one with 9 hours and the meter is connected and the one with 1.8 that I paid more for was disconnected. The fuel filter and several tee connectors are missing. Looks like they broke the solenoid L1 trying to disconnect it from the other L2 solenoid. Got any recommendations for just a good fuel filter assembly to replace the existing ones? Looks like I am going to have fun checking for missing parts.

I found some complete fuel filter assemblies on the bay for $10 each which are an upgrade to what was in the unit.
 
Last edited:

Cdtdiesel

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Location
Burbank ohio
Help with H82

Hello, new to the portable duct heaters. Just picked up a model hdu 36/e h82
Was wondering how to get maximum heat from it. Seems to work after cleaning a rats nest out of it. Blower is a little noisy. Hour meter is connected but doesn't function. Had a fuel leak but I made a new line and seemed to fix it. I have the fuel pressure at about 130
 

155mm

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For maximum heat, all the way up was not it for mine. I run mine 1 tick mark down from the last numbers. The unit is noisey without the flame screens and side door removed. Hour meter only functions in the heat position if connected, if hour meter doesnt function in heat mode, check the rectifier, I have had 2 with rectifiers failed. Fuel psi may be a bit high, I prefer to run these on the low side for psi/elevation setting. Seems like I get better fuel economy this way.

LBKQ2316[1].jpg
 

Cdtdiesel

New member
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Location
Burbank ohio
For maximum heat, all the way up was not it for mine. I run mine 1 tick mark down from the last numbers. The unit is noisey without the flame screens and side door removed. Hour meter only functions in the heat position if connected, if hour meter doesnt function in heat mode, check the rectifier, I have had 2 with rectifiers failed. Fuel psi may be a bit high, I prefer to run these on the low side for psi/elevation setting. Seems like I get better fuel economy this way.

View attachment 714008
On both of the controller settings or just the right knob?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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Location
Guymon, OK
Might run the exhaust temp lower to start since its new to you. In case there are hiccups to overcome
 
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