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Flasher unit

DREDnot

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Does anyone have a source for a replacement flasher unit ?
Part number 12418344
Out of an M1088A1

The few that popped up searching that number are out of stock

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doghead

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It’s a standard military vehicle flasher unit.

Any military truck parts place will have them.
 

doghead

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If Eriks has it, so should any other military truck parts stores.
 

DREDnot

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Great info guys.

All the lighting on the LMTV is 12v

I had been searching by the part number off the old unit.
That unit from erics may do the trick. Interestingly he shows the pinout info.

Pin A= Flasher output
Pin B= power input
Pin C= ground

Before I buy it, Im going to try to connect a common civilian flasher unit to the A&B pins just to see if it will work.
 

coachgeo

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Great info guys.

All the lighting on the LMTV is 12v

I had been searching by the part number off the old unit.
That unit from erics may do the trick. Interestingly he shows the pinout info.

Pin A= Flasher output
Pin B= power input
Pin C= ground

Before I buy it, Im going to try to connect a common civilian flasher unit to the A&B pins just to see if it will work.
do off the shelf standard flashers ground off the mounting screw? if so run a wire to mount screw to "C" for better grounding?
 

DREDnot

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Im thinking of the common round can style with the two prongs at 90 degrees from one another. They usually just plug into a plastic fuse block that offers no grounding. Its just a thermal switch in the power line.
I surmise that the mil unit needs a ground for its solid state circuitry to function but hopefully not to control grounding of the bulbs for them to light.
Im not 100% sure it will work...90 % sure. So an experiment at best.
 

doghead

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Your thoughts are correct.

You can use either a 2 or 3 terminal flasher unit. 2 terminal does not require a ground to operate.

Regular automotive flasher will work fine.

I’ve used bullet connectors to push into the truck harness, to make that connection and used female blade on the other end for the flasher.

Also, fancied that up a bit with a standard automitive headlight pigtail for the flasher to plug into, then used the bullet connector to fit into the truck harness. HAve been running like that for over a decade on some trucks.
 

Bill Nutting

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Your thoughts are correct.

You can use either a 2 or 3 terminal flasher unit. 2 terminal does not require a ground to operate.

Regular automotive flasher will work fine.

I’ve used bullet connectors to push into the truck harness, to make that connection and used female blade on the other end for the flasher.

Also, fancied that up a bit with a standard automitive headlight pigtail for the flasher to plug into, then used the bullet connector to fit into the truck harness. HAve been running like that for over a decade on some trucks.
Well Doghead, you finally solved a very old problem for me on my M37. I went to NAPA and bought a LF 12 flasher. I picked this one because it is two wire and loud. I installed it and mounted it to the fire wall where I removed the stock unit. Now my turn signals work just fine and I can hear when I leave them on after a turn. This is going to save me a fortune in blinker fluid! The last time I bought a M series flasher I paid $50.00. This flasher was $12.50. Thank you for sound advise! I used 10 awg stranded wire. cut off a few strands and tinned the end. They fit nicely into the plug on the truck. The next guy can revert to the stock unit if he wants to. One vehicle down, two to go....
 

ramdough

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Austin, Texas
So this is a bit of a tangent but flashing related.

My left turn started going solid when I hit the brakes.....I could still hear it clicking.

Now it is kind of solid all of the time when I activate my turn signal and kind of shimmery looking. Like it is still trying to flash but not really.

I have LED lights. I heard it may be a bad ground back-feeding.

Any thoughts....?


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Bill Nutting

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When I have strange symptoms like this, I always check my ground connection first. If all that looks good, I would swap the control switch.
 
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