Fleet project

[turnkey]

This sure sounds like fun for your weekend project ...Best of luck on this one.

 

[highfavor1004]

Okay, well work on the truck one Injection pump today. I took off the cover, and check the fuel rod lever. I was stuck, I had over tightened the screws when I put it back together. I fired the truck up and the it went straight to fuel throttle again. I had the cover off and I slightly pulled back on the fuel rod lever, and the motor idle down. I then let the fuel rod lever, go which return back to the 7 o'clock position and went full throttle on the truck.


I talk to a Simi mechanic that has rebuilt the IPs and he said it sound like it is the governor weights. The only way to check that is pull the IP off. SO for now on to truck two


Truck 2.

I pulled the fuel lines off, replaced the started, and put batteries in it.


The I was getting fuel to the filters and the IP head. I turn the truck over and I had nothing coming out of the top of the head. This lead me to believe that the truck was sitting to long and the button had failed. I took out the head and to my supervise the button was still attached. I had a some one turn the truck over and I watched the shaft in the IP housing move. So I am believe I have an issue internally with the IP head. I attached some picture of Truck 2.

 

[highfavor1004]

Hello all,
I have been working on truck 2 today, and I was able to replace the button inside the head. I have fuel coming out the top of the head when the truck is cranking. So score, the only problem is the starter is not turning the motor fast enough to crank up. I thought it was the batteries at first but after replacing them with new batteries, it still was a low crank. I had put a new used starter on the truck last week. I talked with the owner and he said that he bought it from a civilian store that rebuilds big truck starters. I noticed that the starter was a little different from the other military truck starters. So I think that it is the right starter by means that it fits, but I don't think the internals are like the military one. So I am waiting for the military one to be rebuilt.

I went on to truck 3. I notice that the truck was missing the below attached picture. I am going to post in the want ads but I don't I know what the part called.

Could someone help me identify the part.

 

[BnaditCorps]

Hope all goes well with this endeavor

 

[rustystud]

Hello all,
I have been working on truck 2 today, and I was able to replace the button inside the head. I have fuel coming out the top of the head when the truck is cranking. So score, the only problem is the starter is not turning the motor fast enough to crank up. I thought it was the batteries at first but after replacing them with new batteries, it still was a low crank. I had put a new used starter on the truck last week. I talked with the owner and he said that he bought it from a civilian store that rebuilds big truck starters. I noticed that the starter was a little different from the other military truck starters. So I think that it is the right starter by means that it fits, but I don't think the internals are like the military one. So I am waiting for the military one to be rebuilt.

I went on to truck 3. I notice that the truck was missing the below attached picture. I am going to post in the want ads but I don't I know what the part called.

Could someone help me identify the part.

The new starter should be fine. The military ones where designed to be able to go under water and not short out. So as long as you stay above the water you'll be fine with this one.

 

[highfavor1004]

The only problem is that it is not turning the truck over fast enough to start. Even with either. I hooked up a slave cable to one of the trucks to give the batteries extra juice, but it still was not turning the motor fast enough to have detonation with either. That is why I am thinking that the civil starter might be geared differently.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Hello all,
I have been working on truck 2 today, and I was able to replace the button inside the head. I have fuel coming out the top of the head when the truck is cranking. So score, the only problem is the starter is not turning the motor fast enough to crank up. I thought it was the batteries at first but after replacing them with new batteries, it still was a low crank. I had put a new used starter on the truck last week. I talked with the owner and he said that he bought it from a civilian store that rebuilds big truck starters. I noticed that the starter was a little different from the other military truck starters. So I think that it is the right starter by means that it fits, but I don't think the internals are like the military one. So I am waiting for the military one to be rebuilt.

I went on to truck 3. I notice that the truck was missing the below attached picture. I am going to post in the want ads but I don't I know what the part called.

Could someone help me identify the part.

So your looking for the "T" fitting that goes in the front of the hyd head?

The only problem is that it is not turning the truck over fast enough to start. Even with either. I hooked up a slave cable to one of the trucks to give the batteries extra juice, but it still was not turning the motor fast enough to have detonation with either. That is why I am thinking that the civil starter might be geared differently.

If it was geared different, it wouldn't spin the motor over, it would grind. You mean it has a different rpm.

 

[rustystud]

The only problem is that it is not turning the truck over fast enough to start. Even with either. I hooked up a slave cable to one of the trucks to give the batteries extra juice, but it still was not turning the motor fast enough to have detonation with either. That is why I am thinking that the civil starter might be geared differently.

I would check your battery cables first. Also the connections at the starter. The cable ends should also be inspected for corrosion. The brass ends (connectors) can be tight but water has gotten in and started to corrode the cable. Mine where all corroded, and when I twisted the cable the ends came off. I went with 2/0 welding cable from the batteries to starter. The truck spins over like a "whirling dervish" now.
Also inspect the starter relay which is mounted above the starter on the engine block.

 

[Tow4]

Check each electrical connection after cranking the engine for about 5 seconds. Start at the batteries and then starter solenoid, solenoid to starter motor, and all grounds. If a connection is very hot (much more than the others), that is the one to investigate first. There may be more than one bad.

If its not a connection, take the starter and have it tested and/or swap a known good starter. I've seen starters that would run fine on the tester, but pulled way too many no load amps and would not start the vehicle.

Good luck.

 

[highfavor1004]

Does anyone have a the T section in front of the head for sale. I need one bad. I also need another IP head ?

Hello all,
I have been working on truck 2 today, and I was able to replace the button inside the head. I have fuel coming out the top of the head when the truck is cranking. So score, the only problem is the starter is not turning the motor fast enough to crank up. I thought it was the batteries at first but after replacing them with new batteries, it still was a low crank. I had put a new used starter on the truck last week. I talked with the owner and he said that he bought it from a civilian store that rebuilds big truck starters. I noticed that the starter was a little different from the other military truck starters. So I think that it is the right starter by means that it fits, but I don't think the internals are like the military one. So I am waiting for the military one to be rebuilt.

I went on to truck 3. I notice that the truck was missing the below attached picture. I am going to post in the want ads but I don't I know what the part called.

Could someone help me identify the part.

 

[highfavor1004]

I how found a new IP unit with head and t handle for a great price.

recap:

truck 1

Now the attached picture is truck 1. When I start her she goes full throttle on start up. No throttle response. The only way to get the truck to Idle down is to half pull of the fuel shut off switch. I was told this problem belongs to the governor weights sticky usually. In order to adjust them you have I have to pull the IP. So This new to me IP should be a good replacement after I get it inspected.

The truck brake peddle is on the floor so I am pretty sure I have an issue with the master cylinder. I have not bled the brakes yet. I want to get her running first. The rear drive shaft is out for some reason but that is an easy install. The Truck still need head lights, turning signal, signal box, signal switch, wind shield wiper motors, and wiper blades. The truck should be road worthy after above list is complete, as long as Murphy law stays away.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Does it have the throttle return spring installed? If not, it will cause "racing" issues.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yeah, there should be a coil spring in tension between a tab on the steering box and a tab on the throttle linkage.

 

[highfavor1004]

Thank you for your input but all linkage is connected with spring. I wish it was that then I would not have to pull the IP.