FLU 419 THROTTLE PEDAL PIVOT AND BUSHING REPLACEMENT

DOPHOTO

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NORCAL
Greetings,

The throttle pedal on my recently acquired FLU419 is incredibally squeaky and very sticky. I replaced the springs, removed and straightened the hand throttle linkage and lubricated all relevant linkage joints. The squeaky/stiffness of the pedal remains when all linkage is disconnected so I know the problem lies in the pivot arm and bushing where it comes through the firewall into the cab. I picked up a new throttle -pivot and the two bushings at E I. The TM says you HAVE to tilt the cab.... however I removed the access plate and took a couple measurements and it looks like I might be able to weasel the new pivot and bushing in without tilting the cab ( I dont have overhead room or any help to tilt the cab ). Has anyone ever replaced their throttle-pivot and it there something I'm not seeing ?

PS, The pedal is rusted onto the pivot shaft as though it is fused.... any suggestions, cut off wheel ? hammer strikes ?

Thank You
 

Gar

New member
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Texas
I have the same issue with mine and I have to pull up on the pedal to reduce throttle. I haven’t had a chance to fix this just yet so I’m curious to see how your repair goes.
 

DOPHOTO

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NORCAL
Thanks for checking in. I will send an update once I complete it. Changing the springs helped quite a bit, for a while I had a parachute cord tied onto the pedal just so I could pull it back up (not ideal). The pedal is rusted onto the pivot spline so it isn't going to be easy to get it off, I will probably have to cut it off. My worry is once I cut it off I wont be able to get the new pivot in without tilting the cab. I'll keep you posted. I was hoping someone else had already given it a try.
 

glcaines

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I had the same problem with my FLU419. I replaced the rod with a new one from EI, the old one was bent like a pretzel. I also replaced all springs. I then dismantled everything and cleaned it up. You don't need to tilt the cab. It is really tight in there, but tilting the cab isn't required. For the pivot, I kept soaking the pivot with PB Blaster. Mine wasn't frozen solid, but would barely move. Once I got it removed, I cleaned everything up and lubricated it with white lithium grease. My other issue was where the linkage goes through the rear of the head. I kept using PB Blaster and moving it back and forth. I eventually got it to the point where it was completely free and lubricated it. Everything works great now.
 

quarryman

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Reading your post was like a summary of my activities last week!
On my SEE the foot throttle spring from EI was a lot heavier gauge/spring than the one I removed from the vehicle. Perhaps replaced with the wrong one in the past. The hand throttle spring I replaced was also distorted/weaker, perhaps to offset the weaker accelerator pedal spring? The correct springs worked well. When you replace the lower accelerator pedal spring and the upper hand throttle spring, did you use the Unimog springs from EI?
The hand throttle linkage on my unit also had a good bend in it. Straightening it helped with the whole accelerator and hand-throttle set-up.
The throttle pedal also squeaked a lot and was rusted onto the pivot. Was able to get it to lose, with a wooden block/wedge at the base of the pedal and body, enough to get some PB in there to reduce the squeak. Squeak reduced enough that I bailed out on removing the whole accelerator/pivot assembly.

It would be good to get some feedback from others on the correct hand-throttle engine idle and engine stop. The TM is not that clear about the correct position for the hand throttle. It seemed to make sense to set the engine off at the main stop (not pulling the handle out past to main stop and pushing it to the floor), and the engine ideal at the next stop when pulling the handle back. Not sure if this configuration is correct, but it appeared to puts less stress on the throttle linkage/nylon bush assembly. Would welcome other comments on the correct set-up!
 

glcaines

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The engine should shut down when the hand throttle is pushed to the stop. You shouldn't have to move the hand throttle to the left and further down. It took some time to adjust properly, but mine works correctly. To start, I simply pull the hand throttle back about 1 cm and shutting down I simply push to the stop. The hand throttle should be adjusted so that it moves freely, but does not move on it own due to vibration or spring tension. The TM actually has some very good instructions on the adjustments. However, when I first read through the TM I found it to be very confusing. Reading several time while observing the linkage finally made me understand what was being said.
 

peakbagger

Active member
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Location
northern nh
I replaced the rod and bushing a couple of years ago. I did it without removing the cab. The one thing I could not do was replace the retainer clips on the throttle pivots. The clips keep the pivots from coming apart. They are spring loaded without the clips but they can come off. Maybe someone with small hands and far better dexterity can do it but everytime I tried the clips went flying. If the cab is ever up, the rods will be far more accessible, and I will replace the clips
 
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