FLU419 Mogli's second job

[joeblack5]

I attery kind of got carried away with out first success and decided is was time to try the forest. I bought a bunch of heavy duty antenna mast sections to build a bridge over the creek at our camp.
These section are 22ft long galvanized and weigh, my guess 700-900 lbs.
My junkyard friend delivered them in exchange for the scrap forklift battery ( mogli's first job) 20ft back into the dirt road. Moving 10 pieces 200 yard and stacking them took me 6 hours. The good thing is that I have no fresh diesel in the tank.

Well it was a steep learning curve, still half of the time I move the wrong lever or move it in the wrong direction.

Cursed a couple of times because while climbing on the machine I stepped on the pivot / swivel pedal. ( sure my lingo is incorrect) I must be blessed because no one got hurt except for bug bites.

When folding up the hoe the driver side hydraulic release did not open and I had to get a crowbar to help it out. Did not look if there are any adjustments,, are there??

The leak at the main cylinder became less after all the dirt got worked out, An hydraulic coupling need to be tightened since it leaks along the threads and the one of the swivel cylinders is leaking pretty bad.

on the way out I got stuck. I knew i could not engage 4x4 because the switch is stuck, meaning I can not rotate it,, am I missing something,,is there a mechanical interlock? Ultimately speed became my friend and I came out in 2wd.

Thanks for listening to my excited blabber babble. i am sure it will wear of after a couple of more workouts.

later J

 

[simp5782]

Get on ebay and get you a rigging hook clamp and weld it to the bottom of the bucket. It makes it alot easier when working with chains than the chain being up in the bucket pivot area. I also welded two on the back side of the bucket up front so easier handling.

The 4x4 is air. so you probably got a gummed up valve or rusty from sitting with water in the system. Put some marvel's mystery oil into your tanks and see if it will loosen things up.

Here is a link on some other non engaging problems.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-wheel-mode-not-engaging-in-differential-lock

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you for the teaching me the tricks of the trade. I thought the 4x4 / locker rotary switch is electric and from there it becomes pneumatic? The switch itself is physically stuck. Is it is a pneumatic switch? Sorry for asking something i ca probably look up in the manuals.

later J

 

[simp5782]

Thank you for the teaching me the tricks of the trade. I thought the 4x4 / locker rotary switch is electric and from there it becomes pneumatic? The switch itself is physically stuck. Is it is a pneumatic switch? Sorry for asking something i ca probably look up in the manuals.

later J

I have moved over alot of the SEE's off of the RRAD. I have had alot of them where the 4x4 wouldn't engage or disengage. I have never had one with a bad switch. It was always been the dang shift cylinder. Beat on it with a hammer and see if it'll move while someone else moves the switch.

 

[joeblack5]

I will take another look tomorrow but i can not rotate the switch.I thought for a second that I had to pull the switch up yo be able to rotate it but I only pulled the knob of. i will get under there was a mirror and flaslight.

later J

 

[alpine44]

I will take another look tomorrow but i can not rotate the switch.I thought for a second that I had to pull the switch up yo be able to rotate it but I only pulled the knob of. i will get under there was a mirror and flaslight.

later J

The switch is a pneumatic valve with one inlet and two outlets. On the 4WD setting of the switch pressure is present on the first outlet which goes to a pneumatic cylinder engaging the 4WD lever on the transmission. On the next clockwise stop pressure also appears at the second port which is plumbed to the lockers in both axles. The spool of the pneumatic valve gets pushed down via a cam when rotating the black lever clockwise. The cam is pretty steep and the smallest amount of grid will get the whole mechanism stuck.
If cleaning the cam and cross pin does not help it is probably cheaper to replace the Mercedes valve with two NC solenoid valves.
Muellerter has done a very nice job replacing the OEM valve and could give you some ideas if necessary.

 

[joeblack5]

Thank you Alpine44 , Exactly on the money. Went back this morning, pulled the knob of and the split pin that should actuates /slide over the cam is rusted. Put some oil on top and started working it started working the spool up and down with a screw driver. I will let the oil do its magic for a couple of days and see if that valve can be rescued. Then on the to the problems with corrosion in the air system and see how bad it is.

Thank you all.

Later J

 

[joeblack5]

Worked a couple of hours on the 4Wd / locked switch. Took it out to examine. When reinstalling My flashlight fell inside the somewhere. It took me an hour to find it. By that time I was about boiling. Removed the locker airline from the front axle but got confused with the manual that made me think it was the over pressure / vent line for the whole axle. Found a busted vent line on the steering knuckle, so that was good.
Found a collapsed exhaust pipe , may be fork lift damage? So that was good since it did not feel that I had full power. Did not see any thing else bend.
Explored the intermediate shift system. Not sure that i understand the function of the control valve. Does this allow a short burst of air to change intermediate gears and the the pressure returns to zero? I guess the designer was nervous that a constant pressure on this internal cylinder could blow out the seal in case the cylinder sprung a leak?

Alpine 44 I searched for Mueller and Muellert and muellerter but could not find the thread / post about the replacement of the 4wd switch.

Thanks, later J

 

[Karl kostman]

Joe congrats on getting the bugs worked out of your FLU, very cool pictures and that machine sure looks like and interesting machine to learn and run. I got my PM box cleaned out so PM me some more pics!

Karl

 

[The FLU farm]

Cursed a couple of times because while climbing on the machine I stepped on the pivot / swivel pedal. ( sure my lingo is incorrect) I must be blessed because no one got hurt except for bug bites.

I knew I couldn't be the only one making that mistake a few times. And that was also before I realized that there was no need to run the engine anywhere near 1,800 rpm, so things happened quickly.

An OSHA inspector would freak out over a SEE, I think.

 

[joeblack5]

Yeah FLU , thanks for fessing up. Came to that conclusion as well, idle it is. My high idle does work so may be good when I am good. I learned to ride a motor cycle on a yamaha virago, 2 cyl V twin. I did not know that one spark plug was bad so effectively it was a single cylinder. After a while I got bolder and took it out in th e mountains and had to go back to second gear to get it above 35 mph uphill. That is how I figured out that I missed one cylinder. When it was straightened out ( replace plug) I had a whole new experience but by that time I was confident enough to handle it.

later J

 

[Pinsandpitons]

another reason to convert to wobble sticks. less tiptoeing when mounting/dismounting.

 

[The FLU farm]

another reason to convert to wobble sticks. less tiptoeing when mounting/dismounting.

I dunno. By now I'm better at the goofy Case SEE setup than with the more logical twin sticks. Takes a few seconds to get up to speed with the SEE, but up to an hour with the twin sticks.
Of course, that because of a 50 to 1 usage ratio in my case.