The TM makes it very easy sounding
First I had problems to orient myself and find the particular nuts and screw.
The nut (1) in the TM is. 1 3/16” (it’s probably metric, but I don’t have anything larger in my GMTK than 22mm )
The second nut which is more felt than seen is a 17mm. The bolt was turning by hand then. Could be a 17mm as well, I am not sure.
I used a ratchet strap to pull and hold the pump far enough for me to slide the PS belt off.
I’ll update this post as I go along.
Some individuals talk about taking the radiator out to do this. I doubt it is necessary, plus getting the radiator out is a whole different kind of pain..,One individual mentioned that even with the adjuster lose the pump wouldn’t budge. I am sure he didn’t loosen the huge nut holding the pump from pivoting.
The problem with these flu419 is that pretty much everything, including the driver is somewhat of an interference fit.
Once I got the hydraulic belt around the PS belt I used the strap to pull the pump over to the other side until I felt the right belt tension. Then I went underneath and finger tightened the tensioner bolt and snugged it a bit with the 17mm while making sure the nut is turn the way it needs to and snugged it up.
Then I took the strap off and what was left to do is to tighten the hydraulic pump tensioner
If you feel like doing this job yourself, the TM somewhat describes it in TM 5-2420-224-20-2 . Page 4-506 is about the hydro belt removal and install and page 4-356 is about the power steering belt removal and install.
No need to remove the radiator, or the fan, or the alternator or its pulley... unless you got 8 hours to fill before COB.
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