FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

Indians? I thought they were Native Americans this week.
Unlike the other millions of people born in the USA, who are...

Yeah, where did that thread go??

 

[Another Ahab]

Indians? I thought they were Native Americans this week.
Unlike the other millions of people born in the USA, who are...

Yeah, where did that thread go??

 

[Foxyjosh]

I need a dipstick for my power steering fluid container. Germany does not have them available so if somebody could provide me with the length and the distance from the end the graduation marks are, I can modify something from a car.

 

[The FLU farm]

I should check the P/S fluid, so I can take measurements tomorrow.

 

[The FLU farm]

Hey, there was clean, nice fluid in there. Thanks for making me finally check that.

Anyway, overall length (to inside of cap) is 5-9/16, high is at 1-7/8, low is at 1". Give or take a 16th.

 

[Another Ahab]

Metric makes life SO much easier.

 

[The FLU farm]

It was indeed easier - that's what I grew up with. But my handy dandy (free) Harbor Freight tape measure isn't metric.

Neither am I, anymore.

But I do remember when the Brits started converting, which they did inch by inch.

 

[expeditionimports]

Hi Guys,

Quick suggestion. The IDENTICAL (except longer) power steering reservoir dipstick can be found as the engine oil dipstick on the 404. You can find this part easily.........

http://www.expedition-imports.com/1800100772

Simply cut to length, put on your markings and you are good to go. A good bit cheaper as well.

Cheers,

Scott

 

[The FLU farm]

So I finally managed to get the SEE temporarily immovable (AKA stuck).
Chains on the rear and locked diffs didn't help - not when it was sitting on its belly in wet snow.
The loader doesn't have enough power to help push the vehicle backwards...or pull it forwards.
The backhoe allowed me to lift the rear tires out of their holes, sideways, but they slipped right back into the holes as soon as power was applied.
Luckily a slightly heavier 6x6 could pull the SEE out - but not without also spinning all six tires a little in the process.
Good thing that vehicle happened to be available, or the SEE might have been sitting in that spot until spring.

 

[The FLU farm]

Uh, oh. We may not get as many SEEs to choose from as the mass purchase of keys might suggest.
Just heard that the local (dinky) county yard got one. For free, of course.

 

[Lasvegasron]

FLU 419
1HM450162
Ron Bernstein
Las Vegas, NV
(702) 278-6300

 

[Another Ahab]

FLU 419
1HM450162
Ron Bernstein
Las Vegas, NV
(702) 278-6300

If you're trying to sell it, Lasvegasron, you'll get better market visibility and prospects for it by posting it as a stand alone sales item in the Classifieds. And of course mentioning it also here on they thread isn't a bad idea either.

And you look kind of new so:

- Welcome from this way east here in Virginia.

 

[The FLU farm]

Ron just bought it, and basically just introduced himself this way.
He sure seems to like his "new" SEE, and it sounds like it's in great shape.

 

[Another Ahab]

FLU 419
1HM450162
Ron Bernstein
Las Vegas, NV
(702) 278-6300

Ron just bought it, and basically just introduced himself this way.
He sure seems to like his "new" SEE, and it sounds like it's in great shape.

Lasvegasron, you know we need a picture of your new rig, right!?

Please.

 

[The FLU farm]

Electrical questions:

Today the SEE wouldn't start (turned over slowly) so I got the trusty M1008 out for a charge/jump start.
Eventually removed the doghouse as the throttle tends to stick when it's cold (-11 over night, about 30 when this happened) and noticed puffs of smoke from the front of the starter when it was cranking. And that it was quite hot.
Went in and ordered a new starter - from Amazon, of all places - for $87. About an hour later, tried starting the SEE again (hooked to the M100 and it whirred to life as on 110 Volts. Pure jealousy, or what?? Well, the starter must've cooled off, but it was definitely cool to start with. No pun intended.

While the doghouse was off, I measured voltage at the solenoid and had 12 Volts on the terminal with the battery switch off. Is that normal?
There's a yellow crimp connector on the terminal, which obviously is not normal, which could be the cause.

Also, every now and then the SEE's voltmeter goes to 31-32 Volts, down to 28-29 at the lowest possible idle. The batteries sure smell when this happens.
Turning the engine off and restarting it doesn't help, but blipping the throttle does.

Anybody out there with answers, or at least helpful hints? Please.

 

[ToyMogger]

We just got our family SEE. The kids are so excited. 87 from Govplanet. It only had 56m and 36hrs on it and is in mostly pretty good shape. Even came with the pavement breaker and I found the large impact drill hd45110m on ebay.
There are a few leaky cylinders and one of the outrigger levers was stuck at first. Motor sounds great and starts as soon as you put that screwdriver across the solenoid.

Here is the bigger problem. Clutch Inop. Initially, I was hopeful that it may just needed fluid/a good bleeding. Only having 56m on it, I have a hard time picturing how incompetent of an operator it could have had to burn up the clutch plate.
Now that it arrived, it did have fluid in the reservoir and the pedal had a fairly normal feel to it. With the engine running, when I engage the clutch it acts as if some weight is taken off the motor, as it wants to idle just a tad higher. But, there is never a connection between engine and wheels. I can put the tranny in every gear, motor running or not, clutch pushed in or not, but no connection is ever made. I'm getting ready to tilt the cab and pull the motor, thinking it has to be the clutch plate. Anything I'm missing here? I'm really hoping it is not the tranny.

Also had the critter in the dash problem. A lot of chewed BLACK wires in there. I see they all are numbered, but if you dont have the part of the wire with the number on it you are screwed. I have an operational heater and wipers, yeh. Unfortunately, no lights, blinkers, starter, tach, backhoe jct bx, etc. Anyone parting out and selling a wiring harness?

Still having a blast with it, even if it is just repositioning it with the backhoe to get it in a good place for repairs.

 

[amphibious]

There is an adjustment for the clutch and you can release the plate ! Also you can drill a hole in the clutch casing 1/2 " ( rethread and plug when done) You will see particles and dust
if you have a worn plate. I have a wiring harness if you need for $175. DAN 228-323-3953

 

[peakbagger]

Good luck on the critter eating the harness. I would suggest removing the defroster hoses and air intake hoses. With patience there is enough room to pull the two fuse blocks out from under cowl without unplugging things. This gives you access to the connectors on the back of the fuse block which you will need in order to look up numbers. I also removed all the instruments from the dash so I had room to work. I did find many of the wires are numbered but you need to be careful, there is 25 years of crud on the wiring and connectors and when wiping the crud off occasionally the number came off with them. If I ddid it again, I would have wet rag with spray cleaner on it to be gentler on the numbers. Mercedes runs a lot of individual ground wires back to central stud behind the dash, If the critter hit the area at center dash about 1/4 of the wires may be ground wires.

First thing to do is trace each chewed wire from each connector on the dash components and label them. If you find ground wires tie them back into the central ground point. The vast majority of the wires that are not on the dash connectors run back to the connectors on the back of the fuse block. The major hassle is that there is no complete drawing on what wire lines up with what connector on the back of the fuse block. Also be very careful some (but not all) connectors on the back of the fuse block are identical and if you plug them back in wrong place you would be far worse off then you were. Figure out a way of permanently marking these plugs and where they go. There are also four lighting relays on the back of the firewall near the right side of the firewall. I found that the location of each relay did not line up with the locations shown on the diagrams.

There is zero documentation I have found on the diagnostic wiring harness, luckily it doesn't seem to run behind the dash. I expect the harness would be way less complex if not for the Nato switch

There is someone in Vermont who had listed a SEE harness for sale on Unimog Exchange, he still had an ad for a windshield. For some reason I cant link the ad but his name is Dan Deslauriers.

The clutch sounds odd. I have heard of clutch plates rusted in place but never seen one. I expect its something in the linkage but it territory I haven't spent any time with this system. Mine is under the tarp for 3 more months when I go back to my project of replacing the alcohol injector with an air dryer. A quick note on the alcohol injector, there is a technical service bulletin that the alcohol reservoir cap on the back deck is prone to damage from stepping on it. Mine had that problem and the reservoir was filled with dirt which got down into the alcohol injector. If you don't plan to run below freezing, I would remove the reservoir and plug the lines to the injector. The military TSB calls to add an elevated bar on the deck to prevent the alcohol container from begin stepped on.

It sure looks like many of the auction SEEs have been cannibalized for parts. I am surprised that someone isn't parting a few out but to date I haven't seem any except for the one on Unimog Exchange.

 

[Another Ahab]

It's hard to get many pictures around here, but if anybody has the time to post one or two that would be a big treat.

 

[The FLU farm]

Okay, okay, here's one.