anthkey
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Smart move to leave the rod end attached, making it stay in a good position for working on it.View attachment 686164
Well I got my 1st rebuild done in @ 4 hrs.....
NA... had my cover..still lost @ 4 lbs.....Smart move to leave the rod end attached, making it stay in a good position for working on it.
The downside was that you worked on it in the sun, which prompted the custom A/C installation, right?
Start spraying Anti seize or WD40 etc into that master disconnect. Mine was rusted closed so yours might be rusted open. I have a new switch but since it freed up I have avoided tilting the cab a little longer with mine.Progress:
I am not sure which hit on the starter / solenoid did it., but it is off the street and in the back yard.
View attachment 686163
To start it, I need to run jumper cables from the battery to the engine block, and the solenoid. When I connect the negative cable to the block with the positive cable still insulated, there are sparks. That tells me two things. First there is no connection for the ground. Is that because of the master disconnect switch? Speaking of which, this is what mine looks like, no leaver to switch it on or off. The other thing is there is a positive connection, and there is a short somewhere.
View attachment 686162
I think from here I will pull the starter, change out the fluids, replace filters, put on v-belts and bleed the breaks, and remove the master disconnect switch.
Good ideas, should be included in the unreleased revised edition TM for the FLU419The master disconnect can be switched on for testing by pushing a bole into the hole. The dedicated key does the same via cam action of a radial pin.
You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out on one side.
If you are really in a hurry, a valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
Based on my experience with using things other than the real key, or at least something with the correct measurements, I would limit the use to brief testing.The master disconnect can be switched on for testing by pushing a bole into the hole. The dedicated key does the same via cam action of a radial pin.
You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking it through the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out to one side.
If you are really in a hurry, a valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
You can feel when the contacts close. The internal spring compresses a little beyond that. Too little pressure and you may get arcing, too much and you may crack the switch housingBased on my experience with using things other than the real key, or at least something with the correct measurements, I would limit the use to brief testing.
It could certainly be a coincidence, but my switch is not reliable, and that could have something to do with using a twig at first, then one of those common keys with the red handle.
I tried spraying penetrants in there, shimming the depth for that common key with washers, but it wasn't until getting the correct key that the switch started acting better.
I'm guessing that too much use while having insufficient pressure (not enough depth in the "key") made it mad at me.
I did buy a new switch, but it does NOT look like fun to replace it.
Grab a screwdriver and test it, Ron, just don't push down too hard, or not enough, on it.
Exactly. And I suspect that I ran with too little pressure (the twig was a press fit in the hole, so I couldn't really feel the contacts) and got contaminated contact surfaces in the process.You can feel when the contacts close. The internal spring compresses a little beyond that. Too little pressure and you may get arcing, too much and you may crack the switch housing
Here is the key on the EI site. (They put it under Pinzgauer)I looked on EI web site, and was able to find the complete switch with the key, but not the key by itself.
Dang! I should've bought that fuel bowser and headed your way. Then again, it sold for so much that it would've taken many, many trips to make it pay for itself.Diesel fuel dropped to $1.95 locally today. I loaded the SEE bucket with 5 gal scepter fuel cans and made a run to the Quick Trip. It's been a long time since I've paid under 2 bucks a gallon on diesel fuel
Just saw that episode today.. I wonder what became of it?Anyone notice the SEE in Hawaii Five-O? A little hard to ID with all the plate steel welded on it.
Except for the window glass, tires, and hoses, it probably morphed into iron oxide. It is Hawaii after all.I wonder what became of it?