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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Progress:
I am not sure which hit on the starter / solenoid did it., but it is off the street and in the back yard.

20170622_111426.jpg

To start it, I need to run jumper cables from the battery to the engine block, and the solenoid. When I connect the negative cable to the block with the positive cable still insulated, there are sparks. That tells me two things. First there is no connection for the ground. Is that because of the master disconnect switch? Speaking of which, this is what mine looks like, no leaver to switch it on or off. The other thing is there is a positive connection, and there is a short somewhere.

20170622_104035.jpg


I think from here I will pull the starter, change out the fluids, replace filters, put on v-belts and bleed the breaks, and remove the master disconnect switch.
 
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The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Once you have the correct key for the master switch (which does interrupt the negative side), your starter may work.
EI has them. And get a battery box/hood key while you're at it, if you don't have one already.

Edit: If you want to make your own key for the master switch rather than wait for one, let me know and I'll give you the important measurements.
There's not much to it if you make your own, but any old key that fits may not be good for the switch, I've learned.
Modifying an existing "universal" (usually they have a red handle) key may be the quickest way.
 
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911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Progress:
I am not sure which hit on the starter / solenoid did it., but it is off the street and in the back yard.

View attachment 686163

To start it, I need to run jumper cables from the battery to the engine block, and the solenoid. When I connect the negative cable to the block with the positive cable still insulated, there are sparks. That tells me two things. First there is no connection for the ground. Is that because of the master disconnect switch? Speaking of which, this is what mine looks like, no leaver to switch it on or off. The other thing is there is a positive connection, and there is a short somewhere.

View attachment 686162


I think from here I will pull the starter, change out the fluids, replace filters, put on v-belts and bleed the breaks, and remove the master disconnect switch.
Start spraying Anti seize or WD40 etc into that master disconnect. Mine was rusted closed so yours might be rusted open. I have a new switch but since it freed up I have avoided tilting the cab a little longer with mine.
 

alpine44

Member
397
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
The master disconnect can be switched on for testing by pushing a bole into the hole. The dedicated key does the same via cam action of a radial pin.

You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking it through the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out to one side.

If you are really in a hurry, a tire valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
 
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General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
The master disconnect can be switched on for testing by pushing a bole into the hole. The dedicated key does the same via cam action of a radial pin.

You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out on one side.

If you are really in a hurry, a valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
Good ideas, should be included in the unreleased revised edition TM for the FLU419
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The master disconnect can be switched on for testing by pushing a bole into the hole. The dedicated key does the same via cam action of a radial pin.

You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking it through the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out to one side.

If you are really in a hurry, a valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
Based on my experience with using things other than the real key, or at least something with the correct measurements, I would limit the use to brief testing.
It could certainly be a coincidence, but my switch is not reliable, and that could have something to do with using a twig at first, then one of those common keys with the red handle.
I tried spraying penetrants in there, shimming the depth for that common key with washers, but it wasn't until getting the correct key that the switch started acting better.
I'm guessing that too much use while having insufficient pressure (not enough depth in the "key") made it mad at me.
I did buy a new switch, but it does NOT look like fun to replace it.

Grab a screwdriver and test it, Ron, just don't push down too hard, or not enough, on it.
 

alpine44

Member
397
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Based on my experience with using things other than the real key, or at least something with the correct measurements, I would limit the use to brief testing.
It could certainly be a coincidence, but my switch is not reliable, and that could have something to do with using a twig at first, then one of those common keys with the red handle.
I tried spraying penetrants in there, shimming the depth for that common key with washers, but it wasn't until getting the correct key that the switch started acting better.
I'm guessing that too much use while having insufficient pressure (not enough depth in the "key") made it mad at me.
I did buy a new switch, but it does NOT look like fun to replace it.

Grab a screwdriver and test it, Ron, just don't push down too hard, or not enough, on it.
You can feel when the contacts close. The internal spring compresses a little beyond that. Too little pressure and you may get arcing, too much and you may crack the switch housing
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
You can feel when the contacts close. The internal spring compresses a little beyond that. Too little pressure and you may get arcing, too much and you may crack the switch housing
Exactly. And I suspect that I ran with too little pressure (the twig was a press fit in the hole, so I couldn't really feel the contacts) and got contaminated contact surfaces in the process.
 

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
I will try to test it later today, in the mean time I followed 911joeblow's advice and sprayed some PB blaster in the socket. I was not sure until I started getting responses if the key was removable, or if the switch was broken. I gave it a tentative poke yesterday and it did not seem to move, so trying to dissolve some of the accumulated corrosion makes since to me. I honestly did not try much so it may have been OK, but I don't think the lubrication will hurt anything.

I looked on EI web site, and was able to find the complete switch with the key, but not the key by itself. There are a lot of aftermarket battery disconnect switches out there for a lot less than the 82.50 that EI wants, but I will take one step at a time and now that I know the issue, I can work around it.

Thanks to everyone that provided insight.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
EI has a lot of inventory and not a lot of staff and getting everything entered in the right place is on going project. I think they are out in Europe right now. Best idea is if you cant find it on the website is start up a support ticket and they will get back to you when they return.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Diesel fuel dropped to $1.95 locally today. I loaded the SEE bucket with 5 gal scepter fuel cans and made a run to the Quick Trip. It's been a long time since I've paid under 2 bucks a gallon on diesel fuel
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Diesel fuel dropped to $1.95 locally today. I loaded the SEE bucket with 5 gal scepter fuel cans and made a run to the Quick Trip. It's been a long time since I've paid under 2 bucks a gallon on diesel fuel
Dang! I should've bought that fuel bowser and headed your way. Then again, it sold for so much that it would've taken many, many trips to make it pay for itself.
 
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