FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

I am looking for a hood/battery box key myself.

If you look in this thread, not too many pages back, there are photos of home made versions.
Or, you can just buy one from Expedition Imports.

 

[MrSEE]

@ justacitizen

Here's what I gathered testing with a GPS. Obviously for lower gears the speed could vary 1mph, but I kept it pretty consistent. More accurate values will need to be calculated by checking the product of engine speed and gear ratios.

The low-split appears to be about 0.8 of high air-split values. I took the higher speeds and multiplied by .8 factor to get a corrected low-split value.

@ indicated 2800 RPM

High range:

1 low-split: 11 MPH tested (11.2 MPH corrected)
1 high-split: 14 MPH

2 low-split: 15 MPH (15.2 MPH corrected)
2 high-split: 19 MPH

3 low-split: 24 MPH (24.8 MPH corrected)
3 high-split: 31 MPH

4 low-split: 40 MPH
4 high-split: 50 MPH

Low range:

1 low-split: 2.5 MPH
1 high-split: 3.1 MPH

2 low-split: 4.3 MPH (4.5 MPH corrected)
2 high-split: 5.6 MPH

3 low-split: 7 MPH (7.2 MPH corrected)
3 high-split: 9 MPH

4 low-split: 12 MPH (12.8 MPH corrected)
4 high-split: 16 MPH

Reverse:

1 low-split: 3.1 MPH (3.4 MPH corrected)
1 high-split: 4.3 MPH

2 low-split: 5.6 MPH
2 high-split: 7 MPH

3 low-split: N/A
3 high-split: N/A

4 low-split: faster than you want to go
4 high-split: faster than you want to go

 

[The FLU farm]

4 high-split: faster than you want to go

Amen!

 

[f800]

Broken Shifter

Anybody had this happen to them? It's the 4 speed shifter.

 

[The FLU farm]

Did some reorganization yesterday, and once again, I don't know how I ever got along without a crane.
And no levers (or anything else) got hurt in the process.

 

[msharky007]

View attachment 718189 Did some reorganization yesterday, and once again, I don't know how I ever got along without a crane.
And no levers (or anything else) got hurt in the process.

Now that is awesome...

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[The FLU farm]

Thanks. For the most part, whatever tasks the HMMH is used for could be done with the tractor. But it's usually easier, and definitely more fun, to use the crane or the more meaningful forklift.

 

[Migginsbros]

View attachment 709700 View attachment 709701 View attachment 709702 View attachment 709703
Hopefully this can help you make your own version, keeping some money for parts that are hard to make and better bought.

Thank´s FLU farm.

 

[msharky007]

Will the lockers engage even if it isn't in 4wd? I think my 4wd isn't engaging, but both wheels on rear are turning when selector is turned to locked

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[The FLU farm]

I'd think that if the air supply, or the cylinder itself, isn't working right for the 4WD part, it wouldn't prevent the lockers from working.

 

[alpine44]

4WD and lockers are on independent air lines. The selector switch will pressurize the cylinder for the 4WD lever on the tranny when set to the first (4WD) setting. The next setting will supply air to both the 4WD cylinder and the lockers in both axles. As FLU Farm pointed out, a stuck 4WD cylinder (or plugged line to the cylinder) would not prevent the lockers from engaging. If the line to the 4WD cylinder is broken you will hear this and loose air pressure rapidly.

 

[msharky007]

4WD and lockers are on independent air lines. The selector switch will pressurize the cylinder for the 4WD lever on the tranny when set to the first (4WD) setting. The next setting will supply air to both the 4WD cylinder and the lockers in both axles. As FLU Farm pointed out, a stuck 4WD cylinder (or plugged line to the cylinder) would not prevent the lockers from engaging. If the line to the 4WD cylinder is broken you will hear this and loose air pressure rapidly.

I've some detective work to do now

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[Brents347]

So I am in the process of rebuilding the hydraulic rams on my SEE, and what a pain in the ass that is!

But I have learned a couple of things that I thought maybe I could contribute. First off, my understanding is that the Freightliner was built with a Case 580B/C backhoe attached, and that is even what the info plate on my backhoe assembly says it is, but my seal kits for a Case 580C backhoe do not work.

I am rebuilding in the order that the seals have gone bad, starting with the front bucket tilt rams but the seals were not even close. I just figured the backhoe was a 580, but maybe the bucket wasn't so I went down to the hydraulic shop and picked up the seals and things I needed. Now I am on to the backhoe. I started with the bucket curl ram and now that I have it apart it too does not match the seal kit that I have for it. Back to the hydraulic shop tomorrow, then I will start the twin boom rams.

And what a pain that this stuff is all so heavy and all the bolts are so tight! I am using a 1" drive socket set with an 18" breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar and STILL fighting this stuff!

Also, I did add an air attachment off of the large air tank this week to run my standard construction fittings, so now I can inflate tires if necessary. ****, leave the SEE idling and I think I could frame a house off of it.

Brent

 

[f800]

I think it was peakbagger that mentioned foxkits.com. He has all the seals, including an entire machine package. It's under M35 Case, but doesn't always show up. It's the same as 580D,super D. Got stabilizer seal kits. One came with a bad PTFE (Teflon) seal which I got the next day locally. Dean reimbursed me immediately. Good guy.

 

[lurkMcGurk]

I may be late on the scene here but just my 2 cents on the seals. I spoke to the Fox kit guy last year and he was familiar with what I would have needed if I changed the seals in the main boom cylinder last year. What ended up happening was I changed the oil over to hydraulic fluid when I first got my FLU and as I started using it ( first 5-8 hours over two days) a mild and then spurting leak occurred that intensified when I was working the machine hard. Naturally I thought it was a broken seal but I spoke to a tech at the blue devil company and he thought the seals just needed to be reconditioned. I posted about this on the "using my SEE for real work" thread. Not to cheerlead too much here but after weighing out the pros and cons I rolled the dice and used the product and worked the machine as the instructions stated and a day or so later I was not loosing fluid and could hear the seal squeak along that main shaft.

I know some folks have reservations about stuff like that messing up other areas of hydraulic systems but it worked and continues to work for me. Used the machine many more days after that last summer and once this Winter with no problems. As with a leaky rear wheel seal I will use the blue devil oil sealant this coming Summer as well. There have been many posts about these rigs sitting around unused and seals shrinking so I tend to believe there are situations that a rubber reconditioning product coupled with machinery being run will solve some issues. Again not sure if that helps or if I'm too late after you have already dug in but wanted to throw that out there. If my experience changes I will certainly edited my posts about this, change my stance and maybe cry a little. Cheers


Quick point there is an oil sealant, hydraulic sealant etc,,,,its not just one kind for all

also after reading FLUfarms post below I now see how this could be a Case of the Schmidts! (couldn't help myself)

 

[The FLU farm]

I am rebuilding in the order that the seals have gone bad, starting with the front bucket tilt rams but the seals were not even close.

Brent, unless I misunderstood your post, the reason the seals didn't fit the loader is that it's a Schmidt, not a Case.

 

[peakbagger]

I have the complete set I bought from Foxkits including the special wrench but I find with mine that it mostly leaks when it hasn't been used. I have an oil absorbent "diaper" wrapped the one that leaks the worst and once I start using it, it really doesn't leak enough to hassle with it.

I do remember someone who actually did replace the seals complain that getting them apart was very difficult. I think he speculated that they were assembled with some sort of sealant. I do remember on the occasions I had to be involved with cylinder rebuilds at the papermill I worked at that getting cylinders that size apart was always difficult. We had special bench and some hydraulic wrenches that were used to loosed the main caps. Don't know where they got them but pretty slick.

I expect a new bucket is being ordered this spring and definitely be interested on what civilian models will match up.

 

[The FLU farm]

Since there's no snow yet, the HMMH has seem more use than normal (and the SEEs less).

Loaded a trailer onto another trailer the other day, as I sold both to the same guy.

Today I put the new 10-foot mower on top of a container. Partially because I wanted it off the ground, partially because I could. Did I mention that it's great having a crane?

By the way, it's also a good thing the the front suspension lockout works. Had it not, the outriggers would've dragged when moving the mower. With the front sucked down, they just cleared.

 

[Brents347]

I have the complete set I bought from Foxkits including the special wrench but I find with mine that it mostly leaks when it hasn't been used. I have an oil absorbent "diaper" wrapped the one that leaks the worst and once I start using it, it really doesn't leak enough to hassle with it.

I do remember someone who actually did replace the seals complain that getting them apart was very difficult. I think he speculated that they were assembled with some sort of sealant. I do remember on the occasions I had to be involved with cylinder rebuilds at the papermill I worked at that getting cylinders that size apart was always difficult. We had special bench and some hydraulic wrenches that were used to loosed the main caps. Don't know where they got them but pretty slick.

I expect a new bucket is being ordered this spring and definitely be interested on what civilian models will match up.

On my front tilt booms one side suddenly got so bad that it drained all the fluid from the cylinder in my driveway while the machine WAS NOT running! I figured that one needed to be done. The other had a small leak (6" spot on my driveway while parked) so I just did both. The fact that it is a Schmidt loader now explains a lot! The caps came off these two booms EASY! Almost too easy. The seals in here actually looked to be original. The Schmidt loader does not use the set screws I will speak of below.

I am now on the back of the machine, where I am currently rebuilding the ram that curls the bucket. While using the machine I could watch the fluid run down the ram. That ram came apart using the proper cap tool without too much trouble. In this case 'without too much trouble' means a 3/4" breaker bar with a 42" cheater bar on it. To me, these seals did not seem to be original and in fact looked to be in great shape.

One clue as to original vs. resealed on the backhoe is that the caps and cylinders each have a small round notch in them. You tighten the cap to where these round notches align and then put in a small self tapping screw to keep the cap from loosening. If the screw is gone and the cap has been tightened beyond these notches lining up, your ram has probably been rebuilt at some point. I have found a couple of each on my machine, with screw and without.

I have two more Rams that need help, one of them on one of the stabilizers. I tried to take this cap off to no avail (the set-screw was gone) so I think I will now try the hydraulic fluid conditioner. I will report when I have decided if it is working or not.

Brent

 

[The FLU farm]

For clarification, the odd and difficult to disassemble cylinders are used on the HMMH, not the SEE.
Not that the SEE's cylinders come apart all that easily.