FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[mberetta]

Realized that after I posted. I edited the post. What do you think about the rebuild kit?

 

[Migginsbros]

Rebuild kits are fine but you have to look at your cast iron cylinder, first. If it has rusted holes in the wall you waste your money to the reb.kit.

 

[The FLU farm]

I would concentrate on checking/getting the engine started. That would allow finding out if the clutch, transmission. etc. works.
If that all seems to function well, I'd continue with fixing the essentials, and eventually the rest.

Okay, that's not entirely true. Maybe 20 years ago I would've enthusiastically tackled that job, but not these days. Not when time effectively prevents a major undertaking like that.
And especially when knowing that fairly nice and (almost) fully functional SEEs can (could?) be had for $5-6000.

If you decide to stick with it and get this one up and running, I commend you. And will look into investing in EI.

 

[mberetta]

232425262728293031

pic 27 got new continental replacement. Would love 3 more but $$$.
pic 28 I would like to get a new seal for the doghouse. Does anyone know where I can get one? Also missing passenger seat bottom pad.
pic 31 is there a knob missing?

 

[The FLU farm]

That reminds me; when you do get it running, resist the temptation to run the backhoe or loader before you clean off the exposed parts of the cylinders' rods, and lubed the seals a bit.

 

[mberetta]

Notice the gauge in pic 24? I noticed the last time I was there that the needle is bent over. Glass is still good, but needle is bent. I found that odd.

 

[The FLU farm]

Notice the gauge in pic 24? I noticed the last time I was there that the needle is bent over. Glass is still good, but needle is bent. I found that odd.
View attachment 744067

I saw that earlier, but didn't know that the glass was still intact.
The only way I can think of for that to happen id by exceeding the gauge's range...by quite a bit. Let's hope it was done with compressed air, not when the gauge was installed on the tank.

 

[SeeNebraska]

My SEE just got dropped off this morning. I know i need to replace a leaky clutch slave cylinder right away. I found the part on EI. the MC seems fine but if you guys were tackling the job, would you just replace both?

the SC was leaking slowly when i first started looking at the SEE. the clutch required a lot of pumping before it would get enough pressure to kind of work. so i pulled the rubber corner of the shifter cover plate back so i could get to the SC bleeder screw. After i bled it, it worked good for a little while but then started losing pedal pretty fast until eventually there was no clutch pedal at all. as soon as i'd pour more DOT5 silicone fluid in, it would run out the SC boot onto the ground. I'm just assuming this means the SC was failing and the additional pressure it saw from bleeding it caused it to completely fail.

 

[Migginsbros]

I would only replace the SC. We replace the SC on our skidder and the old MC works well for the last 2 years.

 

[SeeNebraska]

thanks, i ordered the SC a few minutes ago.

the second issue i have is some leaky cylinders on the backhoe. for this winter i'd like to disconnect the backhoe hoses and just use the front bucket for some snow removal. do i just disconnect the two main hoses and connect them together? Will i need to make up some jumper hoses or get some caps? i haven't had a chance to go look at that system yet, i'm sure it'll be fairly obvious once i go take a look.

 

[alpine44]

thanks, i ordered the SC a few minutes ago.

the second issue i have is some leaky cylinders on the backhoe. for this winter i'd like to disconnect the backhoe hoses and just use the front bucket for some snow removal. do i just disconnect the two main hoses and connect them together? Will i need to make up some jumper hoses or get some caps? i haven't had a chance to go look at that system yet, i'm sure it'll be fairly obvious once i go take a look.

The problem with leaky cylinders on the backhoe is that a lot of the seals are below the level in the hydraulic tank. The oil keeps slowly seeping past the spools in the lever valves and drips out of the busted cylinder seals whether you use the hoe or not. Disconnecting the two main hoses going to the backhoe unit will stop that IF the QD fittings work as they should. In any case, put a pan underneath when you disconnect them. The backhoe connection are not the 'zero fluid loss' flat face couplers and oil will drip out even if the couplers eventually seal the hose.

You can connect the two couplers on the hoe side to keep dirt out. On the vehicle side you would need caps or tie a bag around them. Just do not engage the PTO with the hoe hydraulically uncoupled.

 

[SeeNebraska]

one of the leaks is one of the side pivot rams so that makes sense why the tank was pretty much empty. do you happen to know the fitting types and sizes so i could go pick some up? is it bad on hoe if i let all the fluid drain and leave it empty? I'm thinking about moisture getting in.

this is my first foray into hydrauilics, so sorry if these are obvious questions.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

One can connect the two hoses for the hoe on the vehicle side. Its a bit if a wrestling match but doable. If i did it you can too and it’s simpler than building a coupler hose. (Much cheaper too)

Depending on where you live (water content etc) I wouldn’t worry an awful lot about the fluid leaking out of the hoe. Just address the leaking seals soonish and don't let it sit for a year. Also be sure to chain the outriggers together so the hoe stays off the ground.

 

[SeeNebraska]

i saw that mentioned in the manual too in the backhoe removal section.

I'll give it a shot soon. thanks for the help

 

[alpine44]

One can connect the two hoses for the hoe on the vehicle side. Its a bit if a wrestling match but doable. If i did it you can too and it’s simpler than building a coupler hose. (Much cheaper too)

Good to know that it is possible. Connecting the hoses on the vehicle side will also keep the circuit open and would prevent damage to the pump and/or high pressure hose in case the PTO is engaged accidentally.

 

[SeeNebraska]

what are everyone's thoughts on the antifreeze for the air system? at what temperature is that really needed and is it better to use it as designed or figure out a way to replace that with a dryer instead?

is there a specific type of antifreeze I would need to use? I see Antifreeze: ethylalcohol called out in the TM

 

[peakbagger]

Wow you were lucky and the alcohol bottle canister was not smashed? many are. Be careful to take a light and check in the bottle as its a direct entry of crud to the system. My guess is if the temps are near freezing. There are low spots that collect water and they may not get cleaned out when you vent the tanks.

I have all the bits and pieces to switch to an air dryer and still haven't installed them. Air dryers are popular option with Mercedes.

 

[The FLU farm]

A decent parts store should have air system anti freeze.
Is it needed? I don't know. Been running on SEE without (stole the parts to put in another one) and no issues so far.

Then again, last winter really wasn't one here, so it never got below 0.

 

[SeeNebraska]

We hit 25 last night and didn't get above freezing all day. This cold snap won't last but its a good reminder that WINTER IS COMING.
BTW, thanks Flu Farm for suggesting that I jump the starter with a screw driver when I called you on Saturday. It started right up and later i was able to trace the wires and found that a rat or something had chewed up the wire that someone else had already replaced. So there must be something really enticing about that area of these trucks.

 

[Speedwoble]

Took my driver door handle into the Locksmith today and got 2 keys made for it. $30. Now I can lock the passenger door from inside and driver door from outside. The key blank is a U61VW. If you are a patient person, you could get a blank and file your own.