FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Migginsbros]

Vehicle identnr. is on the right front of the frame. You can see it looking in the front right wheel well behind the front cab mount. WDB419........

 

[Migginsbros]

And don´t forget to have a look at the TMs

See, small emplacement excavator; flu-419 manuals and a student handout

Here are the TM's for the CEE, FLU-419 and a nice Student handout.

www.steelsoldiers.com

Thank´s to Guyfang

 

[The FLU farm]

It's on the right side of the frame, by the wheel, as I recall.

Migginsbros beat me to it.

 

[brandan34]

I will go look for that next time I am out in the barn.

The engine in my SEE has problems, bad pitting in one cylinder and a bad scrape in a second. For some reason I do not seem to be able to find a machine shop that will touch a mercedes engine in Southern Oregon. Looking like I will probably get a new block from Expedition imports. I see I can add squirters to their blocks.

Since I am here any thoughts on adding a turbo? Should I add the squirters even if I do not plan on adding a turbo?
I am told most of the time you replace the oil pump when redoing a normal engine, is that true for one of these that has 68 hours on the clock?
Also the push rods all have lines in them that look factory, but on closer look almost look like cracks in the surface layer on one end that looks hardened. Should those cracks be there? One is even flaking material off. (they guys helping me have not seen that before, but first time for all of us on a mercedes)

 

[glcaines]

Vehicle identnr. is on the right front of the frame. You can see it looking in the front right wheel well behind the front cab mount. WDB419........

I found my frame numbers, but some were very difficult to read.
WDB419101
1?141066 (I believe the second digit may be a 1.)
I may take some white paint and try to fill the digits in to make them more readable.

 

[The FLU farm]

Reading about scored cylinder walls makes my quest for finding a charging issue seem pleasant in comparison.

Took another stab at it yesterday, (still) thinking it could be ground related. Anyway, what happens is that the voltage generally pegs the gauge at or shortly after startup. Quickly turning the master switch off and on again a few times usually fixes it. Or the voltage drops by itself after a while.

When it does drop it goes down to about 26 volts, so not as high as it should be. It can also go back up occasionally, which isn't a big deal when running the snowblower, for example. Then it's obvious from the rapid wiper movement and increased heater fan speed. When running the backhoe it isn't.

Well, it sort of was when still running regular wet batteries. Then the smell was a good (but late) indicator.

Anyway, yesterday's backhoe work was slow, since the engine rpm had to be kept at about 800, to keep the voltage at 30 or less. Sure would be nice to get this issue fixed before the snow comes down for real.

 

[glcaines]

Reading about scored cylinder walls makes my quest for finding a charging issue seem pleasant in comparison.

Took another stab at it yesterday, (still) thinking it could be ground related. Anyway, what happens is that the voltage generally pegs the gauge at or shortly after startup. Quickly turning the master switch off and on again a few times usually fixes it. Or the voltage drops by itself after a while.

When it does drop it goes down to about 26 volts, so not as high as it should be. It can also go back up occasionally, which isn't a big deal when running the snowblower, for example. Then it's obvious from the rapid wiper movement and increased heater fan speed. When running the backhoe it isn't.

Well, it sort of was when still running regular wet batteries. Then the smell was a good (but late) indicator.

Anyway, yesterday's backhoe work was slow, since the engine rpm had to be kept at about 800, to keep the voltage at 30 or less. Sure would be nice to get this issue fixed before the snow comes down for real.

I would suspect the problem is a faulty voltage regulator. I looked up the FLU voltage regulator for a friend a while back and I think it was around $50.00 at EI.

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks. If only the darn thing was reasonably easy to get to.

 

[glcaines]

Thanks. If only the darn thing was reasonably easy to get to.

I haven't looked at mine, but at least it's mounted externally to the alternator.

 

[The FLU farm]

I'm not so sure it's the regulator, though.

For example, yesterday I used the slave cables to jump start it as the voltage showed about 20. Didn't think it would fire, and it didn't.
Didn't start the other one, just plugged the cables in.

While that should've made the volt meter read a bit higher, it wasn't. But it did start. Looks to me like there's a questionable connection somewhere.
Ground seems likely since the master switch has given me trouble in the past, so today I'll run a cable from negative to the engine and see what happens.

 

[DueceriderA2]

Thanks, Duecerider.

No, the quick tach setup was bought from palletforks.com, then just modified a bit to fit the loader. It was primarily installed to be able to run the snow blower, but is obviously useful for all kinds of attachments.

Awesome thank you! I have been looking at that site and that’s the way I am going to go!

 

[The FLU farm]

Awesome thank you! I have been looking at that site and that’s the way I am going to go!

If you do, in retrospect I should've just bought the cheaper 2-piece setup.

Yes, it was a time saver to have the two parts connected, but I could've welded in a piece of tubing of the correct length myself, then removed it.

 

[Davestaco]

Wrestled 5 brand used tires on by hand. I found 8 of them for sale used on craigslist. My originals were dry cracked and two blew out the sidewalls...

 

[Davestaco]

I also found out the mog can push over some pretty large trees.

 

[glcaines]

Wrestled 5 brand used tires on by hand. I found 8 of them for sale used on craigslist. My originals were dry cracked and two blew out the sidewalls...

That's too much work for me. When I bought 5 new Pirelli tires from CSM Army tires for my FLU419, my local tire shop, Thomas Tire in Blairsville, Georgia mounted them for $30.00 each including disposal of the old tires.

 

[peakbagger]

Looks like you got a deal on Continentals, they are nice tires. I think they have stiffer sidewalls. The original Michelins were designed to be aired down and wallow around in the mud. There are also good deals on Pirellis from, a place in Virgina on ebay. They are a bit more of a road tire. Continental used to make mil spec tires that I have on my newer unimog, they are bit more road oriented.

 

[Davestaco]

The Continentals are definitely a stiffer tire. The Michelins practically fell off the rims comparatively. I feel much better about off camber situations now with these tires.

 

[brandan34]

Got a new to me transmission today. Here you can see the old rusty one.

 

[brandan34]

Here are pics of the new one. I got it off of Ebay. The owner bought it mil surplus and knows nothing about it other than it came off a mog. It looks the same as the one I got, so I will agree with him




Off to a good start. I have never seen this stuff. It was damp to the touch, but seemed to be doing what it claims to do.




Now the part that I am interested in.


Looks good but so did the one on the mog that is a rusty mess on the inside and has a 2008 rebuild tag.



A little rust but a world different than my first one.



The only noticeable wear that I am seeing is that gear in the center, the left 2/3 has some scratch marks.





Err what is that on that threaded looking gear? I went after it with a magnet and could not get it. I ended up going after it with a small stick, turns out some kind of a grease? What ever it is it went squish in my fingers.




There are no metal filings in the pic just some of the silicone that was used to close the top. That threaded thing is a chunk of silicone. Looking around there looks like there are passages for the gear oil to flow though, does that mean there is a pump somewhere? I will get that silicone out. How worried do I need to be about trying to find others?


I have moved all the gears by hand, moved all the bits that are moved with gear shifters and such. Everything feels fine to me. All of the gears appear to move when they should(This coming from someone who has never been inside one of these before). Anything else I should check? I really do not want to install this only to find there was a reason the military removed this from a Mog.

Any advise on what I should do with this before I install it? I am thinking get the rust off would be nice. Any thoughts on how to do that without putting metal dust inside, or just clean up well after myself. Do I need to tear it apart looking for more pieces of silicone that could plug things up?


Thanks,

Brandan

 

[glcaines]

Much of the internal rust may just wipe off since it appears to be surface rust. You could try to get as much as you can. I would not try to use a wire brush, especially a motor-driven wire brush since one or more wires from the wheel may come out and end up in the transmission. It looks like you found a good transmission. Definitely better than what you started off with! If it was me, I would pour lube all over the inside while turning the gears and soaking everything with the lube. I'd also go ahead and paint the outside before installation.