FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

brandan34

New member
5
5
3
Location
Southern Oregon
I will go look for that next time I am out in the barn.

The engine in my SEE has problems, bad pitting in one cylinder and a bad scrape in a second. For some reason I do not seem to be able to find a machine shop that will touch a mercedes engine in Southern Oregon. Looking like I will probably get a new block from Expedition imports. I see I can add squirters to their blocks.

Since I am here any thoughts on adding a turbo? Should I add the squirters even if I do not plan on adding a turbo?
I am told most of the time you replace the oil pump when redoing a normal engine, is that true for one of these that has 68 hours on the clock?
Also the push rods all have lines in them that look factory, but on closer look almost look like cracks in the surface layer on one end that looks hardened. Should those cracks be there? One is even flaking material off. (they guys helping me have not seen that before, but first time for all of us on a mercedes)
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,606
1,703
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Vehicle identnr. is on the right front of the frame. You can see it looking in the front right wheel well behind the front cab mount. WDB419........
I found my frame numbers, but some were very difficult to read.
WDB419101
1?141066 (I believe the second digit may be a 1.)
I may take some white paint and try to fill the digits in to make them more readable.
 
Last edited:

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,082
713
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Reading about scored cylinder walls makes my quest for finding a charging issue seem pleasant in comparison.

Took another stab at it yesterday, (still) thinking it could be ground related. Anyway, what happens is that the voltage generally pegs the gauge at or shortly after startup. Quickly turning the master switch off and on again a few times usually fixes it. Or the voltage drops by itself after a while.

When it does drop it goes down to about 26 volts, so not as high as it should be. It can also go back up occasionally, which isn't a big deal when running the snowblower, for example. Then it's obvious from the rapid wiper movement and increased heater fan speed. When running the backhoe it isn't.

Well, it sort of was when still running regular wet batteries. Then the smell was a good (but late) indicator.

Anyway, yesterday's backhoe work was slow, since the engine rpm had to be kept at about 800, to keep the voltage at 30 or less. Sure would be nice to get this issue fixed before the snow comes down for real.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,606
1,703
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Reading about scored cylinder walls makes my quest for finding a charging issue seem pleasant in comparison.

Took another stab at it yesterday, (still) thinking it could be ground related. Anyway, what happens is that the voltage generally pegs the gauge at or shortly after startup. Quickly turning the master switch off and on again a few times usually fixes it. Or the voltage drops by itself after a while.

When it does drop it goes down to about 26 volts, so not as high as it should be. It can also go back up occasionally, which isn't a big deal when running the snowblower, for example. Then it's obvious from the rapid wiper movement and increased heater fan speed. When running the backhoe it isn't.

Well, it sort of was when still running regular wet batteries. Then the smell was a good (but late) indicator.

Anyway, yesterday's backhoe work was slow, since the engine rpm had to be kept at about 800, to keep the voltage at 30 or less. Sure would be nice to get this issue fixed before the snow comes down for real.
I would suspect the problem is a faulty voltage regulator. I looked up the FLU voltage regulator for a friend a while back and I think it was around $50.00 at EI.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,082
713
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I'm not so sure it's the regulator, though.

For example, yesterday I used the slave cables to jump start it as the voltage showed about 20. Didn't think it would fire, and it didn't.
Didn't start the other one, just plugged the cables in.

While that should've made the volt meter read a bit higher, it wasn't. But it did start. Looks to me like there's a questionable connection somewhere.
Ground seems likely since the master switch has given me trouble in the past, so today I'll run a cable from negative to the engine and see what happens.
 

DueceriderA2

Member
11
30
13
Location
NH
Thanks, Duecerider.

No, the quick tach setup was bought from palletforks.com, then just modified a bit to fit the loader. It was primarily installed to be able to run the snow blower, but is obviously useful for all kinds of attachments.
Awesome thank you! I have been looking at that site and that’s the way I am going to go!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks