FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[BELinNC]

Thanks for the replies and warnings! I do try to keep safety in mind around these machines. When I became a cadet at the Citadel years ago there was story going around that a faculty member had been killed recently under his BMW Bavaria while he was working on it when some improvised jack stands collapsed. That has always stuck in my mind. That was reinforced when I restored my OT 810 halftrack. That thing was full of heavy and /or sharp metal objects waiting to hurt you if you got careless! Much like the SEE would do with all it's wonderful, but potentially dangerous implements.

Nice list of to dos while the cab is tilted, thanks for the suggestions. Will take some pics of what I find under there!

 

[quarryman]

For anybody removing the throttle linkage ball joint, here’s some images of the clip that locks the ball and socket together. It‘s possible to remove, adjust and reinstalled the ball joint and spring clip on the injector pump arm on the right side of the engine block, just!

 

[peakbagger]

For anybody removing the throttle linkage ball joint, here’s some images of the clip that locks the ball and socket together. It‘s possible to remove, adjust and reinstalled the ball joint and spring clip on the injector pump arm on the right side of the engine block, just!
View attachment 899182
View attachment 899183
View attachment 899184

You have smaller hands and far more patience than I do to do that with the cab on. I tried several times to get that clip back in place and ended up launching the clip into space . Great photo to explain the issue.

 

[glcaines]

For anybody removing the throttle linkage ball joint, here’s some images of the clip that locks the ball and socket together. It‘s possible to remove, adjust and reinstalled the ball joint and spring clip on the injector pump arm on the right side of the engine block, just!
/QUOTE]
You make it look so simple! Thanks for posting - that is very good information.

 

[Migginsbros]

small pin , good work.

 

[BELinNC]

That's great info on the throttle ball clips. I can see how easy they might launch off into space! Will be checking to make sure they are all installed when I get my cab lifted.

 

[BELinNC]

Got the cab tilted on my SEE, not tilted to the max, but enough to get to the transmission/clutch area. Was quite a production, but the brackets from EI work great. The only snag I ran into was not putting spacers on the rear cab mount points. I spent a frustrating hour or so trying to get the tilt brackets mounted having not put the spacers in first. It won't work! After putting spacers in it all proceeded according to plan.
I was happy to find the cab underside in very solid condition with only minor surface rust in a few spots.

I quickly was able to replace the clutch slave cylinder although I am still trying to think through the adjustment phase. I would hate to get that wrong and have issues after I lower the cab.

My question is can you bleed the clutch/brake system with the cab up? It seems like I should be able to, but was wondering if anyone has any experience doing that. I don't know, but assume with a pressure bleeder rigged up it isn't necessary to pump the pedals? Thanks for any info on that.

 

[Skredsnl]

Greetings,

I am looking at a FLU-419 to buy for my farm. I spent 28 years on active duty and I kinda like them.

Is there an inspection service that can check the vehicle I am considering? It's an eight hour drive, one way.

S.

 

[The FLU farm]

Greetings,

I am looking at a FLU-419 to buy for my farm. I spent 28 years on active duty and I kinda like them.

Is there an inspection service that can check the vehicle I am considering? It's an eight hour drive, one way.

I seriously doubt that you'd find an inspection service that would know what they're looking at, and what it's supposed to look like.

Your best bet is probably to find a Steel Soldiers member that knows SEEs and bribe them into helping you. Or, get one at auction. They're fairly good at listing obvious issues, and careful studying of the photos can also tell a lot.

If going the auction route I'd suggest getting a non-runner. It's a lot easier to get the engine running than to fix all the hydraulic cylinder seals they destroyed for the photos by operating it without cleaning off the rods first.

 

[Migginsbros]

Skredsnl
A warm welcome. You have to check all fluids. Engine, trany and portal axel cases. Look for leaks. There are expensive parts inside.
We can´t recomend an 8 hour drive in that truck. You better haul it. (My thoughts)
TM´s you find at the TM section.
Greetings from oversees.

 

[glcaines]

Ditto on what The Flu Farm and Miggginsbros said. FLU419s are very very complicated. Find someone that already owns one with experience to check it out for you. If it isn't looked at by someone with the proper knowledge you are rolling the dice. Who currently owns the SEE? If it is a private party, do they have a lot of experience with the SEE so that they can at least demonstrate everything for you? Or, is it a dealer or someone that knows very little? Does it have all of the hydraulic tools with it? I would recommend that you go ahead and start reading the TMs and the Student Handout. I've attached a copy of the Student Handout for you. Driving eight hours to look at it before making an offer may be some time and money well spent. I got a good one and even so I've had to do a lot of work on it. I know several people that really got burned when they purchased one.

 

[BELinNC]

Welcome to the forum. I am sure the SEE would be a great addition to your farm. I can't add too much from the good advice above. If the SEE you are interested in has been thoroughly gone over and maintained by its current owner you might be okay to attempt to drive it long distance if you can sort out the title, insurance etc. An 8 hour trip in a normal vehicle will probably take 10-12 in a SEE if everything goes well. My first SEE had a top speed of about 54mph on level roads-and takes its own loud and leisurely pace to achieve that!. Hills will slow it down considerably. My current SEE is under repair and haven't tested its top speed because among other things it is stuck in 4wd.
The much more reasonable option would be to trailer it home or have it transported for you and then you can take your time and check all the maintenance items at your own pace.
Unfortunately, with SEE ownership (as already mentioned) you will be hard pressed to find any shop/ mechanic that could be of too much help with an inspection since they are a rare and unique mixture of MB Unimog and Freightliner with some CASE and Schmidt thrown in!
Good news is many questions can be answered on this forum.

 

[peakbagger]

There is or was a retired mechanic who was involved with SEEs from their early prototypes through the end of production and did training for the military on rebullding them in southern California. At least a few years ago he still was running a garage out of his home working in selected projects. Not sure if he is still in the business. One hint is that the federal government had money to spend and shops to keep open so they were rebuilding SEEs to like new condition in a process called recapping. They were torn down and deteriorated components rebuilt or replaced. Many were recapped and parked just a few years before rhe auction cycle. They in theory are the ones to buy but sell at premium. The older units that just sat in storage for decades are going to need a lot of rubber components like hoses replaced and they will add up quickly. You are better off buying a more expensive recapped version than one that is going to need a lot of replacement of wear parts. The underlying vehicle is the last iteration of the Unimog 406 chassis and there is supply chain for many parts but they can be expensive. Many of the components behind the cab like the hydraulic tanks and coolers and the backhoe are US supplied from many vendors. The original vendor and holder of the inventory in Wisconsin of these special parts no longer has the remaining inventory and Expedition Imports in CA ended up with what was left but in many cases they are out of parts in demand due to poor original design so expect on occasion that you may be having to come up with alternatives. There are some beaters out there that I expect would be best to buy for a parts vehicle.

More power to the folks who have successfully driven 50 MPH with a SEE but I know my SEE with the stock "soft" tires is a real handful on anything less than perfect flat pavement. If the road has and crown to it, it wants to start wobbling side to side and if it something like bump from a culvert or transition in pavement it can start to wobble back and forth. The stock Michelin tires were designed for traction and have soft sidewalls. The also may be 20 years old and dry rotted internally and extended high speed operation is not recomended as a blowout at 50 MPH with a 8 ton vehicle is potentially a death sentence. There are stiffer sidewall tires available that improve the road manners, like the Pirelli Pistas, but most SEEs have the original Michelins. The engine is literally int he cab with an insulated engine cover but there is still a lot of hot parts separated from the cab by sheetmetal so the cab gets hot, when I move my SEE to remote sites in warm weather I need to take a break every 20 minute or so to get away from the heat. Sure you may get real lucky and pull off a move but far more likely you will have breakdown and the cost to get it moved will be lot more than just having it hauled.

 

[The FLU farm]

I never got the impression that the SEE was going to be driven. It just happens to be eight hours away by normal vehicle speed.

Anyway, I wouldn't mind that drive to be able to see (and hear) what shape it's in. At least if it's a costly one.

 

[glcaines]

I never drive my SEE over 35 or 40 on the highway and on hills it won't go that fast anyway. It can really get squirrely. I blew the left rear original Michelin tire on my SEE on the highway. I wasn't going very fast, but still came close to turning over. If it has original Michelin tires, replace them before driving on the highway.

 

[Skredsnl]

Skredsnl
A warm welcome. You have to check all fluids. Engine, trany and portal axel cases. Look for leaks. There are expensive parts inside.
We can´t recomend an 8 hour drive in that truck. You better haul it. (My thoughts)
TM´s you find at the TM section.
Greetings from oversees.

Yes, I am planning have it delivered. 8 hours in sedan is easy. 20 hours in a SEE would cripple me.

 

[The FLU farm]

So is this a supposedly running and fully functional SEE, or close to it?

What the hell, I'm probably far from the ideal person for this, but PM me your phone number and I'll do my best to prep you for the inspection.
If the timing works out, I may be willing to try helping while you're checking it out, too.

 

[Skredsnl]

Hi Flu Farm,

My name is Jim and I live in North East MO. The FLU-419 is in Aniwa Wisconsin, east of Minneapolis.

The current owner is a used car salesman (that sounds really bad ... ) who used it up to a couple of years ago. He isn't using it so it's for sale.

Sent PM

 

[glcaines]

Well, I finally got my Intermediate Speed Control resolved. It was caused by the piston in the upper transmission cover rusted in position. I honed the cylinder with a wheel cylinder hone to remove the rust. I ended up re-using the O-rings that sealed the piston against the bore because I couldn't find new ones and they are a non-standard size. the Intermediate Speed Control works like a new now.

Unfortunately, I now have another problem. My clutch doesn't disengage completely unless the pedal is completely to the floor. Although the slave cylinder was unbolted during removal of the upper transmission cover, none of the lines were disconnected. The master cylinder reservoir is full of fluid and there is no sign of any leakage of fluid from either the MC or slave cylinder. Pumping the clutch pedal has no effect. I'm hoping the problem is not with the slave cylinder since replacing it would mean removal of everything I just put back together after repair of the intermediate speed control. The TM says the cab must be tilted, but that isn't required. When I look at the lever the slave cylinder moves when the pedal is pressed, it only move a slight amount when the pedal is near the floor.

 

[BELinNC]

Far from an expert on this topic, but I am in the midst of a slave cylinder replacement on my SEE. It seems to me if you unbolted the slave cylinder during your recent work that you likely did not reset the proper gap between the slave cylinder piston and the clutch lever. There is an adjustment to be made and just bolting the slave cylinder back on does not assure you it was in the exact same location as before. Hopefully will be an easy fix. I am surprised to see how little the piston extends under pressure to actuate the lever.