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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

peakbagger

Well-known member
724
339
63
Location
northern nh
I was really lucky in that my FLU came with all of the hydraulic tools and the hydraulic system worked perfectly. I bought my FLU sight-unseen based on extensive photos. I was told that there were no hydraulic tools included. When I received it I found all of the tools and accessories were there. I really like the hydraulic chainsaw. It really cuts wood fast, is lightweight, and no fuel or chain oil required. The only downside is that you have to bring the FLU along. I haven't used the drill yet, but I have used the jack hammer extensively, but that thing is a beast to use! The drill was actually brand new and still painted orange.
Wow, pretty rare, although at least one guy claimed he bought a recapped one at auction and the tools and accessories were still sealed in the tool boxes. Did it come with the ultra rare long stroke hydraulic bottle jack? Those seem to disappear quickly.

Do note there are mixed opinions on how well chainsaw chaps will work to prevent injury with a hydraulic or electric saw. There are You Tube videos that show that chaps will stop a cut but unlike a standard gas chainsaw, the hydraulic units do not stall.

A FYI is that the jack hammers use some sort of inert gas as a spring and that gas may leak out eventually. They can be recharged, I see the kits on occasion to do so but never looked into the details.

I must admit, I picked up one of the hydraulic pavement saws for mine on Ebay.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,283
1,203
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Wow, pretty rare, although at least one guy claimed he bought a recapped one at auction and the tools and accessories were still sealed in the tool boxes. Did it come with the ultra rare long stroke hydraulic bottle jack? Those seem to disappear quickly.
Lucked out with the first one I bought. It came with everything, including the jack. Maybe because it was in Washington, not Texas?

After that, the only thing one of them came with was the ripper. Bought a new 3/4-inch impact for the HMMH for about $300, then paid a bit more for a used 1-inch. No regrets.

Now, the HME being a slightly different animal and not bought through GovPlanet had the auger, semi trash pump, and (I think) some other tool. Need to look in its toolbox again and refresh my memory.
 

MogPoggers

Member
35
77
18
Location
Jamestown, New York
My impacts were delivered today (that was fast). They're both Stanley brand and have flat face hydraulic connections, and the 1/2" appears to be the same model that normally comes with the FLU419 - but the 1" is a different model. It appears to be the one below. I was worried it would be too big, but It fits securely in the upper tray of the tool box. I checked the specs and it's flow rating is 7-12 gpm with an optimal rate of 8gm, so it should work fine with the FLU front hydraulics, and all the specs seem to be the same as the one that came standard with the Mog (500 - 2500 ft/lb). It's just a different form factor with what I think is probably a safer grip/handle setup:

I paid $1000 total for both impacts, including shipping.


 
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peakbagger

Well-known member
724
339
63
Location
northern nh
My impacts were delivered today (that was fast). They're both Stanley brand and have flat face hydraulic connections, and the 1/2" appears to be the same model that normally comes with the FLU419 - but the 1" is a different model. It appears to be the one below. I was worried it would be too big, but It fits securely in the upper tray of the tool box. I checked the specs and it's flow rating is 7-12 gpm with an optimal rate of 8gm, so it should work fine with the FLU front hydraulics, and all the specs seem to be the same as the one that came standard with the Mog (500 - 2500 ft/lb). It's just a different form factor with what I think is probably a safer grip/handle setup:

I paid $1000 total for both impacts, including shipping.


My guess is the 1" one is optimized for use on railroad tracks.

The Cog railroad up Mt Washington in NH that was built in the 1860s has been upgrading their fleet and they built a special car for track maintenance, they reportedly use all Stanley hydraulic tools. Their tracks are custom with gear rack in the middle.

Electric utilities and contractors use hydraulic tools as the hoses can be supplied non conductive, so they do not become a path to ground when working up near power lines. I think they routinely sell used ones rather than rebuild. I bought a spare set of the connectors several years ago on Ebay from a specialty supply house in Florida (unfortunately I do not have their contact info. There is a listing on ebay for the short stub hoses with the correct connectors that many of the tools use. Most of the supply houses list full retail for tools and parts as the users are mostly commercial with steep discounts off list.
 

MogPoggers

Member
35
77
18
Location
Jamestown, New York
My guess is the 1" one is optimized for use on railroad tracks.

The Cog railroad up Mt Washington in NH that was built in the 1860s has been upgrading their fleet and they built a special car for track maintenance, they reportedly use all Stanley hydraulic tools. Their tracks are custom with gear rack in the middle.

Electric utilities and contractors use hydraulic tools as the hoses can be supplied non conductive, so they do not become a path to ground when working up near power lines. I think they routinely sell used ones rather than rebuild. I bought a spare set of the connectors several years ago on Ebay from a specialty supply house in Florida (unfortunately I do not have their contact info. There is a listing on ebay for the short stub hoses with the correct connectors that many of the tools use. Most of the supply houses list full retail for tools and parts as the users are mostly commercial with steep discounts off list.

I haven't tested them yet, but I disassembled them to check the hammer mechanisms. I didn't see much sign of wear on hammers or anvils, so I'll be very surpised if they need any kind of rebuild. The flat face connectors they came with are already the correct size for the tool circuit on the FLU, and the person selling them said they work fine, for whatever that's worth.

If not, I guess I can cry and throw a tantrum.
 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
156
41
28
Location
Central Washington
While we're on the subject of self lifting and hydraulic connectors and what not, does anyone know the name of the quick disconnect style for the backhoe on a SEE? Its a -14 jic which is strange enough but the QD variety is new to me?

Disregard, I'm going to just find an easy available. Quick disconnect. To hell with the special types.
 

Attachments

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Stoik

New member
5
6
3
Location
Utah
I'm having a hard time determining where exactly this portal axle leak is coming from and thus how to fix it or what part I need? It's the front driver's side axle.

The other axles don't have any grease on them just the green paint. So I guess this one has been leaking for a while though I don't recall it being noticeable dripping onto the inside of the tire like it is doing right now.

4WD and Synch lock still work fine last I checked.


It's definitely an oil leak. At first I thought my omni-pee dogs had gone under there and peed on it but my first clue was that only one was wet. "Hm...they usually mark every tire....something must be up", I thought to myself.
Hi major.
Just wondering what you found out with your axle leak? I just started having the same leak on the same axle side as yours. I have yet to dig into beyond this thread. Any info would be appreciated greatly.
I'm having a hard time determining where exactly this portal axle leak is coming from and thus how to fix it or what part I need? It's the front driver's side axle.

The other axles don't have any grease on them just the green paint. So I guess this one has been leaking for a while though I don't recall it being noticeable dripping onto the inside of the tire like it is doing right now.

4WD and Synch lock still work fine last I checked.


It's definitely an oil leak. At first I thought my omni-pee dogs had gone under there and peed on it but my first clue was that only one was wet. "Hm...they usually mark every tire....something must be up", I thought to myself.
Hi major.
I was wondering what you found out and fixed for your axle leak? I have the same leak same side of the axle. I have just started to dig into it. Any info would be appreciated!
 

Stoik

New member
5
6
3
Location
Utah
Hi major.
Just wondering what you found out with your axle leak? I just started having the same leak on the same axle side as yours. I have yet to dig into beyond this thread. Any info would be appreciated greatly.

Hi major.
I was wondering what you found out and fixed for your axle leak? I have the same leak same side of the axle. I have just started to dig into it. Any info would be appreciated!
Sorry just did a little more looking and it sounds like your leak fixed itself. I hope I'll be as lucky. If not I'll report back on what I find. Also to add I'm located in SLC UT but my see is in Northern Nevada. I've had mine for 3 years and have on needed to do basic maintenance and all the hydraulic seals. I've beat my machine pretty good in flattening ground and digging a septic system in caliche ground. I'll post some pics. Thanks to all involved in this forum. It's super helpful to read others experiences with their mogs.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
724
339
63
Location
northern nh
I have not had a leaky hub seal that I have seen. There are three plugs on the portal axle a drain a fill and one used to check the level. They could be loose as they are supposed to be checked on occasion. The portal does not contain much oil and if the level is low bad things happen to expensive gears. There is rear hub seal that will leak on the back side of the hub. The portals are pressurized with low pressure air when in 4wd. The low-pressure air is supplied by a pressure reducing valve on the high-pressure air system. If the regulating valve fails, it allows high pressure air to overpressurize the system and blow out the hub seals. On Unimog's used at high speeds like road going campers there is also an issue with portal oil leaving the axle hub via the pressurization tubing. There is retrofit for that issue that replaces the pressurization tubing but this should not be an issue with SEE that is used for low speed.
 
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Stoik

New member
5
6
3
Location
Utah
I have not had a leaky hub seal that I have seen. There are three plugs on the portal axle a drain a fill and one used to check the level. They could be loose as they are supposed to be checked on occasion. The portal does not contain much oil and if the level is low bad things happen to expensive gears. There is rear hub seal that will leak on the back side of the hub. The portals are pressurized with low pressure air when in 4wd. The low pressure air is supplied by a pressure reducing valve on the high pressure air system. If the regulating valve fails, it allows high pressure ait to overpresurize the system and blow out the hub seals. On unimogs used at high speeds like road going campers there is also an issue with portal leaving the axle hub via the pressurization tubing. There is retofit for that issue that replaces the pressurization tubing but this should not be an issue with SEE that is used for low speed.
Yeah seems it could be a few different things. I was going to look into over pressured hub. I need to get a closer look but changing the inner seal looks like a pain in the ass normally but even more so in the dirt 150 miles from a press/specialized tools. I will report back. Thanks.
 
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