FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

Even if a '45 406 had better brakes than a FLU, which I doubt, the main difference here would be weight. Not that I know what a stock 406 weighs, but it may be less than half of the weight of a SEE.
An alternative to adding more clamping pressure to the pads by going with HydroBoost would be to make what's already there work as intended. For example, I'm sure that the e-brake is supposed to work better than it does, and that the brakes in general aren't as effective as they could be on my FLUs.
Brakes aren't high on my priority list, however, as I don't drive fast enough to really need them.

And while I'm a huge fan of going sideways in most any vehicle (even got to enjoy it on a twisty dirt road with the Pete and trailer on one occasion) a FLU is one vehicle I would not want to try drifting with. Now, this may be partially based on the fact that I have yet to figure out how to upright a SEE that's laying on its side.
If sacrificing (or at the very least, putting much wear on) the engine, it may well be possible to use the backhoe to get it back on its wheels. If the hydraulics don't start sucking air. That would mean that the SEE should end up on its left side, and like most, I tend to prefer skidding into left turns. So the SEE would likely be on its right side.
Or, I could try using the HMMH for lifting while winching with another vehicle which might work, depending on the situation. As usual, the limiting factor wouldn't be that there isn't enough machinery for the task, but that there's only one operator.
Either way, the above is more than enough incentive to me to try my best to keep the FLUs upright.

 

[General Hood]

Just a FYI, I only have 2 of the elect charts left, PM me for bargain of the week

 

[jstark45xd]

I'm not sure if I have a different thermostat or not. I do know that I watch it a lot as I am getting to know her in the Nevada desert. Just as it hits 220 you can noticeably tell it opens and the system cools down below the 180 mark.

 

[jstark45xd]

Normal OM352 operation should have the thermostat open between 78-80c (172-176f). Not sure if you were implying you have a different thermostat on your SEE or not, but 220f for your thermostat to open doesn't seem right to me.

I just researched the crap out of this. You are right. They should have a 79c or 83c for colder climates. I must have some other one or mine is possible defective. Looks like an easy swap out though. Thanks!

 

[General Hood]

Hot-rodding around a skating rink in the SEE, I didn't encounter any understeer even in 2WD. I'd love to throw the HMMH around in the same conditions sometime, but I suspect I'd have "plowed" it right into a snowbank due to understeer, from the lack of heavy-ass loader-bucket mass several feet in front of the steer wheels. Remains to be seen!!!

I've been DD'ing the SEE for three weeks now, alls I can say, is I'd rather drive the HMMH, all potential understeer aside!

Please tell me there is a YouTube video

 

[johnjohn]

Does anyone have a SEE passenger seat they are looking to sell in and around Dallas Texas? Also a hood in decent shape would be useful.

 

[The FLU farm]

Welcome, John.
When (if?) I get my hands on a parts SEE, I'll have seats left over. A hood? Could use one myself.

 

[burquedoka]

I just researched the crap out of this. You are right. They should have a 79c or 83c for colder climates. I must have some other one or mine is possible defective. Looks like an easy swap out though. Thanks!

No problem man, it sounded a bit high to me. Should be an easy fix and effective, living in the desert!

 

[Couchoffroad]

This thread is SOOOOOO long I gave up tring to see if anyone has got into setting up the loaders hydraulic pressure up to a usable level yet.
Most of the SEE or HMMH units seem to come in at around 2200 psi or a bit higher.
In the larger series Unimog they are factory set at around 2900 psi. And we've been running the FL4 loader for decades very effectively at these numbers.

We have bumped up the presures on several of our 419 series machines to this level and have now made these Unimog an effective loader that can actually dig and lift.

If anyone is interested I can try to post up a how to? It's about a 20 minute job as long as your relief valve fittings are not too rusted.

 

[bigburb]

Sound like good info. Post it up.

 

[The FLU farm]

Yes, please do. My SEE has an unusually lame loader.

 

[tendermos]

Starving of fuel!
Works fine and then RPM drops down and then comes back up. Main gas line shakes by the filters when RPMs drop and then gets to fine once everything comes back to normal. Pumping manually with the primer helps to get RPMs back.
We did not have any problems when we got it. Since then replaced all the lines, filters, primer pump, cleaned the tank and tied all connections for the air leaks.
The only thing left is the sender inside the tank - can it clog? or it might be something else?

 

[Another Ahab]

We have bumped up the presures on several of our 419 series machines to this level and have now made these Unimog an effective loader that can actually dig and lift.

So the problem was just not enough break-out power, but otherwise everything else was good?

 

[tendermos]

This thread is SOOOOOO long I gave up tring to see if anyone has got into setting up the loaders hydraulic pressure up to a usable level yet.
Most of the SEE or HMMH units seem to come in at around 2200 psi or a bit higher.
In the larger series Unimog they are factory set at around 2900 psi. And we've been running the FL4 loader for decades very effectively at these numbers.

We have bumped up the presures on several of our 419 series machines to this level and have now made these Unimog an effective loader that can actually dig and lift.

If anyone is interested I can try to post up a how to? It's about a 20 minute job as long as your relief valve fittings are not too rusted.

Please tell us how. very interesting!

 

[The FLU farm]

The only thing left is the sender inside the tank - can it clog? or it might be something else?

Don't know if it can or not, but I disconnected the fuel line between the valve and strainer, then put compressed air through it. Lots of bubbling in the tank.
Did it help? Not sure, as I did a number of other things at the same time. But one definite result was that lots of small particles started showing up in the strainer afterwards.

 

[The FLU farm]

Should've ordered smaller tires.
Not surprisingly, now that we're finally getting decent snow I'm finding the limits of the snowblower/SEE combo.
The main problem isn't the snowblower. At 84 inches, it's about as narrow as it can be for the width of a SEE or it wouldn't clear a path for it, so that part of the equation can't be changed.
It's the gearing (or lack thereof) that is the real issue. Yesterday the SEE simply ran out of power. Keeping the revs up to power the snowblower obviously speeds the SEE up, too.
In an ideal world, hydrostatic drive would be the solution, but cost and possibly also much generated heat rules that one out.
I'd gladly give up the seldom used high range for a lower low range, if there is such an option. How about it, you gear heads (no pun intended) out there, is there a relatively simple and affordable way to get lower gearing in a SEE? If so, having it both on the SEE and the HMMH would be most helpful.
Taking two passes, the first one with the snowblower some 12 inches up, masks the problem with the SEE. With the HMMH there's no way to fake it, other than slipping the clutch, which I refuse to do.

 

[88FLU419]

I cleaned my tank. when I removed the sender there was a screen on the pickup line.

Starving of fuel!
Works fine and then RPM drops down and then comes back up. Main gas line shakes by the filters when RPMs drop and then gets to fine once everything comes back to normal. Pumping manually with the primer helps to get RPMs back.
We did not have any problems when we got it. Since then replaced all the lines, filters, primer pump, cleaned the tank and tied all connections for the air leaks.
The only thing left is the sender inside the tank - can it clog? or it might be something else?

 

[88FLU419]

I'd gladly give up the seldom used high range for a lower low range, if there is such an option. How about it, you gear heads (no pun intended) out there, is there a relatively simple and affordable way to get lower gearing in a SEE? If so, having it both on the SEE and the HMMH would be most helpful.

Look up cascade box unimog on youtube. not sure if this "cascade" box would work on a 419.

 

[peakbagger]

EI has the sending unit socks. They are real coarse. Have you replaced the fuel lines at the top of the tank. They are inaccessible unless the tank is dropped.

 

[tendermos]

EI has the sending unit socks. They are real coarse. Have you replaced the fuel lines at the top of the tank. They are inaccessible unless the tank is dropped.

I have replace all fuel lines.
Had a problem with dropping the tank, so just cleaned it with vinegar in the mounted position.
Seems like sender is the only thing left.