FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Mark1954]

On non SEE related note; I was guardian for a WW2 vet (my 96 year old dad) to Washington DC on an "Honor Flight" http://www.honorflight.org/ this weekend from Maine this past weekend. We had 42 men and 4 women WW2 vets on the flight. We toured all the service memorials in DC on Saturday in a marathon session, pretty good for a crew of vets that were between 88 and 99 years old. We had the founder of the program along with us as he retired in Maine.

There are various regional groups that run these trips under the national organization and are putting the word out to try to get any remaining living WW2 vets to DC before they pass so it you know of WW2 vet let them know about Honor Flight. They also try to get Korean and Vietnam vets on the flights as space and funds allow. The group we went with being from the rural state of Maine is currently limited to only WW2 vets and terminally ill vets from the later wars. We had a merchant marine who served active duty in all three conflicts. Its non profit and the vets don't pay a dime.

I had never seen the WW2, Korean and Vietnam Memorials in person, pictures don't do them justice.

And now back to the normally scheduled SEE forum

Very cool! Glad you got to take him.

 

[Mark1954]

And the answer is?

The Rocket Chemical Company created WD40,(Water Displacement Formula perfected on the 40th try) that most prized fluid of our workshop, was developed to protect the paper thin stainless steel skin of the Atlas Missiles. The Atlas Rockets were made in CA and the salt in the air caused issues. The skin was so thin that they had to maintain 5 psi inside the missile or it would collapse under its own weight. That is one of the reasons you seldom see one on display. The dry weight was 16k, the launch weight with fuel and LOX was 259k. Fun fact - guess what launched the Mercury Astronauts into space? Right Stuff - No Kidding!

 

[Another Ahab]

On non SEE related note; I was guardian for a WW2 vet (my 96 year old dad) to Washington DC on an "Honor Flight" http://www.honorflight.org/ this weekend from Maine this past weekend. We had 42 men and 4 women WW2 vets on the flight. We toured all the service memorials in DC on Saturday in a marathon session, pretty good for a crew of vets that were between 88 and 99 years old. We had the founder of the program along with us as he retired in Maine.

I had never seen the WW2, Korean and Vietnam Memorials in person, pictures don't do them justice.

And now back to the normally scheduled SEE forum

That's a great program, and glad you all had that opportunity. That's a lot to cover in one weekend.

I don't suppose you got to Arlington (National Cemetery), did you? They got a monument there to the USS Maine ("Remember the Maine"; not sure you knew that).

 

[peakbagger]

Yes we made it to Arlington to watch the hourly change over of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier. The tour guide pointed out the tower from the Maine. She also mentioned that they are going to expand Arlington right down to the Air Force Memorial. There is a women's veterans memorial down at the base of the hill. While the lady veterans were touring there, we had one lone WW2 SEEBEE that wanted to see his memorial. The group didn't have time to stop so I gave him high speed wheelchair ride down Memorial Drive from the Women's Memorial down so he could get his picture taken and high speed roll back up. He appreciated it.

In general with a batch of Mainers and WW2 veterans in general, they don't talk much about what they did in the war. They went, did what they needed to and came home and some of them then went back to Korea.

 

[The FLU farm]

Just got this email from General Hood;

"I'm at ICU with my granddaughter. things don't look good. Tell the guys I'd appreciate thoughts and prayers in her behalf"

This sure has turned into a somber day.

 

[Mark1954]

Just got this email from General Hood;

"I'm at ICU with my granddaughter. things don't look good. Tell the guys I'd appreciate thoughts and prayers in her behalf"

This sure has turned into a somber day.

Sorry to hear that, all our best thoughts and wishes.

 

[Another Ahab]

Just got this email from General Hood;

"I'm at ICU with my granddaughter. things don't look good. Tell the guys I'd appreciate thoughts and prayers in her behalf"

This sure has turned into a somber day.

My prayers here and now for strength to see her through this trial, and a strong recovery. Amen

 

[MSMOG]

Just got this email from General Hood;

"I'm at ICU with my granddaughter. things don't look good. Tell the guys I'd appreciate thoughts and prayers in her behalf"

This sure has turned into a somber day.

Prayers from Mississippi.

 

[MSMOG]

FYI, there are 6 FLU419's on Govliquidation.com to be sold in the next couple of days out of Pineville, LA. That's Louisiana for y'all out there in the Midwest. They are in ROUGH condition. The rats there must be huge!!!! Honestly, they give "parts trucks" a bad name. Also looks like they might not even be willing to load them for buyers Here is a link to the worst one:
http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=11578476&convertTo=USD

 

[The FLU farm]

Honestly, they give "parts trucks" a bad name. Also looks like they might not even be willing to load them for buyers

In all fairness, it does say "Mutilation not required" in the description.

Somewhat along the same lines, since today has been an unusually crappy day, I decided to let my brain cell do a little work as the body wasn't willing.
Thought about the earlier tilting-the-cab question in order to get to the master switch. Started looking for a decent spot for the second master switch when the coin fell down. Yeah, the switch is suspect in my case, but is it really guilty? I have no real proof of that, so started looking at the positive wiring instead.
Soon found an isolator/connector behind the fuel tank, which is what the photo shows. What caught my interest was that both sides (understandably) has protective rubber covers over the studs. And that both can act as moisture traps since the cables come down to the studs.

The nuts were tight on both sides, but I loosened them and sprayed some JB-80 on the terminals and studs. Which is why it looks a bit soggy in the photo.
Whether this will have any effect whatsoever on the erratic charging I don't know, but it couldn't hurt to have good contact in the positive wiring, too.
I'll know better tomorrow after starting the SEE up. Had to call it a day after accidentally locking the battery box key inside the battery compartment.

 

[911joeblow]

My issue is that the master does nothing. Key in or not it is passing power. I have a haunting suspicion it is miss wired. I have a replacement but i think i may have to tilt to do it.

 

[peakbagger]

FYI, you appear to have located the shunt resistor for the diagnostic harness. This harness is not shown on the electrical diagram and is not covered by the electrical diagnosis section of the manuals. I have seen occasional glimpses of some components in the parts manuals as well as the parts manual. Unless you have the box that plugs into the diagnostics connector, I would suggest removing this shunt and putting a permanent splice in the line. The alternative is to put in locking battery disconnect switch used in boats.

A shunt is a high current, low resistance fixed value resistor used to convert current to voltage drop that can be measured with a voltmeter. If someone had the specs they could add a meter on the dash to measure the amperage draw of the battery using the shunt. If the connection were crappy, it would heat up could raise havoc with charging. I expect if it gets bad enough there could be fire but more likely things would melt.

I expect this mystery harness is going to be an ongoing PITA for SEE owners.

In all fairness, it does say "Mutilation not required" in the description.

Somewhat along the same lines, since today has been an unusually crappy day, I decided to let my brain cell do a little work as the body wasn't willing.
Thought about the earlier tilting-the-cab question in order to get to the master switch. Started looking for a decent spot for the second master switch when the coin fell down. Yeah, the switch is suspect in my case, but is it really guilty? I have no real proof of that, so started looking at the positive wiring instead.
Soon found an isolator/connector behind the fuel tank, which is what the photo shows. What caught my interest was that both sides (understandably) has protective rubber covers over the studs. And that both can act as moisture traps since the cables come down to the studs.

The nuts were tight on both sides, but I loosened them and sprayed some JB-80 on the terminals and studs. Which is why it looks a bit soggy in the photo.
Whether this will have any effect whatsoever on the erratic View attachment 652233charging I don't know, but it couldn't hurt to have good contact in the positive wiring, too.
I'll know better tomorrow after starting the SEE up. Had to call it a day after accidentally locking the battery box key inside the battery compartment.

 

[Mark1954]

FYI, there are 6 FLU419's on Govliquidation.com to be sold in the next couple of days out of Pineville, LA. That's Louisiana for y'all out there in the Midwest. They are in ROUGH condition. The rats there must be huge!!!! Honestly, they give "parts trucks" a bad name. Also looks like they might not even be willing to load them for buyers Here is a link to the worst one:
http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=11578476&convertTo=USD

That is just sad...have there been a lot of IED attacks in Louisiana that I haven't heard about???

It actually looks like some idiot tried to move some of them by putting a fork inside the cab and lifting!

I'm sure everyone on the forum would like a boneyard 10-15 minutes away when you just need 1 little part
but even at $25 each the moving costs would probably outweigh the benefits unless you need some really
unique parts for a full museum restoration or something.

 

[MSMOG]

That is just sad...have there been a lot of IED attacks in Louisiana that I haven't heard about???

It actually looks like some idiot tried to move some of them by putting a fork inside the cab and lifting!

I'm sure everyone on the forum would like a boneyard 10-15 minutes away when you just need 1 little part
but even at $25 each the moving costs would probably outweigh the benefits unless you need some really
unique parts for a full museum restoration or something.

I SEE a Pull-A-Part yard! They will probably go to some local scrap guy for $25 apiece!!! I'm going to keep an eye on them. I might also call the facility and see if we can get the contact info for whoever does but them.

 

[The FLU farm]

FYI, you appear to have located the shunt resistor for the diagnostic harness. This harness is not shown on the electrical diagram and is not covered by the electrical diagnosis section of the manuals. I have seen occasional glimpses of some components in the parts manuals as well as the parts manual. Unless you have the box that plugs into the diagnostics connector, I would suggest removing this shunt and putting a permanent splice in the line. The alternative is to put in locking battery disconnect switch used in boats.

A shunt is a high current, low resistance fixed value resistor used to convert current to voltage drop that can be measured with a voltmeter. If someone had the specs they could add a meter on the dash to measure the amperage draw of the battery using the shunt. If the connection were crappy, it would heat up could raise havoc with charging. I expect if it gets bad enough there could be fire but more likely things would melt.

I expect this mystery harness is going to be an ongoing PITA for SEE owners.

Okay, so that's what I saw a little higher up on the back of the battery box, a shunt. Makes sense, with two cables and two wires on it.
Well, if it isn't needed, it might as well be eliminated. Every connection is a potential trouble spot, and at best, a slight drop in voltage.
What's in the photo is a bulkhead fitting, which could also be eliminated, but not without running new, longer cables.

Back to that shunt: It could be a good place for 911joeblow to install a master switch in its place. It probably wouldn't work with stock batteries since it'd be hard or impossible to reach the key inside the battery box, but with smaller batteries like in mine it'd be fine.

While you're on the line, peakbagger, does this mean that I could also eliminate the large, capped connector by the shifters? It seems like its harness is rather chunky, and partly to blame for not being able to move/remove the panel at the shifters.
I got rid of something very similar in my M1009 a long time ago, but can't remember if I just cut all the wires, or if it could be unplugged somewhere.

 

[The FLU farm]

I SEE a Pull-A-Part yard! They will probably go to some local scrap guy for $25 apiece!!! I'm going to keep an eye on them. I might also call the facility and see if we can get the contact info for whoever does but them.

If only I had the time to go get them, I'd gladly pay $200 for the two least worst ones. Being able to go get some little part in the yard as the need arises can be priceless. Surely they haven't managed to destroy everything on them.

 

[Mark1954]

I SEE a Pull-A-Part yard! They will probably go to some local scrap guy for $25 apiece!!! I'm going to keep an eye on them. I might also call the facility and see if we can get the contact info for whoever does but them.

A proper salvage yard could make some good money, long term, heck they are still selling parts for Model T's.
I (read DW) wouldn't want one sitting in the back 40 just waiting for the day someone needs a part, but that is not the business we are in.
I hope someone is able to capitalize on these, pass the info about the buyer if you are successful.

 

[peakbagger]

I have been tempted to do exactly what you suggest, removing the entire connector and harness associated with it but was hoping the electrical schematic would allow me to make sure that it wouldn't impact anything. I speculate that the electrical schematic poster was what was shipped with the truck from the factory (notice the german writing on some components depicted) and that the backhoe was attached in states along with this harness added. When I run into the diagnostic harness wires they are usually not part of the stock wiring looms and are just hung on with tywraps or taped on. On my list is to go through the diagnostics section of the manual and try to reverse engineer what they are trying to do with each diagnostic function and decide if it will impact operation of the SEE. In most cases I think if there is a switch needed by the truck and the diagnostics system they put in dual switch so removing the diagnostics wire wouldn't cause any issues. If someone were to cut all the wires, I would either remove them or heat shrink the ends so they don't short on anything.

If I ever were to pick up a SEE and convert it back to a unimog pickup, I would definitely strip that system out. It would be lot easier to decide if I tilt the cab but trying to avoid it on my current SEE as I don't have a spare.

Okay, so that's what I saw a little higher up on the back of the battery box, a shunt. Makes sense, with two cables and two wires on it.
Well, if it isn't needed, it might as well be eliminated. Every connection is a potential trouble spot, and at best, a slight drop in voltage.
What's in the photo is a bulkhead fitting, which could also be eliminated, but not without running new, longer cables.

Back to that shunt: It could be a good place for 911joeblow to install a master switch in its place. It probably wouldn't work with stock batteries since it'd be hard or impossible to reach the key inside the battery box, but with smaller batteries like in mine it'd be fine.

While you're on the line, peakbagger, does this mean that I could also eliminate the large, capped connector by the shifters? It seems like its harness is rather chunky, and partly to blame for not being able to move/remove the panel at the shifters.
I got rid of something very similar in my M1009 a long time ago, but can't remember if I just cut all the wires, or if it could be unplugged somewhere.

 

[The FLU farm]

I have been tempted to do exactly what you suggest, removing the entire connector and harness associated with it but was hoping the electrical schematic would allow me to make sure that it wouldn't impact anything.

There are so few things electrical that I would like to remain functional - starter, gauges, work lights front and rear, and the high rpm switch - that I'm willing to take the chance. If something doesn't work afterwards, it'd be easy enough to run new wiring/switches for it.

 

[911joeblow]

I am not home to take a pic, but what is that errant connector lead with a dual heaf plug that is loosely draped over the fuel pump? I guessed it goes to the optional hood mounted 24V solar charger? I have seen the same cord on some of the pics of your trucks too.