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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

911joeblow

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Utah
Look what I got today. Stanley HYD Chainsaw but with the added Cutoff Saw Conversion kit. Two tools in one!

Once I have fittings I will let you guys know how it works. I have a pole fence I need to put in shortly so I think this might come in handy along with the LOWE Auger attachment ;)

IMG_20161107_152718.jpgIMG_20161107_152707.jpg
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
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The actual midwest, NM.
Look what I got today. Stanley HYD Chainsaw but with the added Cutoff Saw Conversion kit. Two tools in one!
Nice! Although, from the looks of it, I'd be able to hurt myself with one of those.

FINALLY made some noticeable progress today. Not on the hydraulics for the snowblower, but on the roof extension. Got got to practice using the crane, and put the spreader bar to use, so a good day indeed.DSCN1428[1].jpg
 

The FLU farm

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...removing and replacing a 170 lb tire and wheel out of and back into the carrier which is at eye level by yourself deserves consideration. I am thinking about 2 options, a simple crane assembly that pivots at the base, using a hand crank winch to lift/lower and raise the wheel.
Mark, even I can remove the spare by myself - getting it back up there is an entirely different story. I think the simple pivoting crane would be your best option, unless you want to try use the backhoe for lifting it. Having it turned to the left side instead of to the right for normal travel position just might do the trick.
Of course, if the feces are hitting the fan, I wouldn't worry about reclaiming a wheel with a flat tire. And I also wouldn't even try to use the spare unless the tire's injury was so bad that I couldn't fix it with a Safety Seal kit.
 

FOD

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NW Ohio
Since I purport to be a prepper of sorts, I was considering the possibility of changing tires on a SEE. Obviously raising a small army so I always have 2-3 people available is one option, but just for argument's sake, removing and replacing a 170 lb tire and wheel out of and back into the carrier which is at eye level by yourself deserves consideration. I am thinking about 2 options, a simple crane assembly that pivots at the base, using a hand crank winch to lift/lower and raise the wheel. A second solution might be some sort of par-bucking sling to roll the wheel in and out. Ideas from the room?
I just changed one of my tires tonight and was discussing the same situation with a buddy. I'm thinking of making a removable davit arm that connects up to the side handrail. Like any good prepper you will of course have some rope and probably a come along if you can't manage the weight with just the rope. I think the bigger issue will be getting the tire off and replaced solo. I haven't figured that part out yet. Also if you have not taken the time to break loose all your lug nuts now is the time, it took over an hour with a torch to get just 6 off.
 
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The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I just changed one of my tires tonight and was discussing the same situation with a buddy. I'm thinking of making a removable davit arm that connects up to the side handrail. Like any good prepper you will of course have some rope and probably a come along if you can't manage the weight with just the rope. I think the bigger issue will be getting the tire off and replaced solo. I haven't figured that part out yet.
FOD, are you referring to replacing the tire, or the tire and wheel? There are no safety beads on the stock rims, so removing the tire from the wheel isn't too hard.
If you meant removing the wheel from the SEE, again, even I can do that. Sure, I had to use use a hydraulic jack since the flat tire wasn't in the rear, and I had a hydraulic impact to help me out, but still. I'm sure the factory jack and a cheater bar on the factory wrench would do the job, too.
 

FOD

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FOD, are you referring to replacing the tire, or the tire and wheel? There are no safety beads on the stock rims, so removing the tire from the wheel isn't too hard.
If you meant removing the wheel from the SEE, again, even I can do that. Sure, I had to use use a hydraulic jack since the flat tire wasn't in the rear, and I had a hydraulic impact to help me out, but still. I'm sure the factory jack and a cheater bar on the factory wrench would do the job, too.
I was referring to getting it down and up (more to get a spare back up assuming you were going to try and salvage it). I used the jack to lift the truck but it is a pain in the ass to try and get the lugs lined up while lifting the tire (alone). I need to pick up an impact wrench..maybe Santa will bring me one.
 

Mark1954

Member
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Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
I just changed one of my tires tonight and was discussing the same situation with a buddy. I'm thinking of making a removable davit arm that connects up to the side handrail. Like any good prepper you will of course have some rope and probably a come along if you can't manage the weight with just the rope. I think the bigger issue will be getting the tire off and replaced solo. I haven't figured that part out yet. Also if you have not taken the time to break loose all your lug nuts now is the time, it took over an hour with a torch to get just 6 off.
FOD, that is similar to what I was envisioning. The crane I have was designed to go into a 2" receiver, has a pivot on a
1-1/2" rod and has a hand winch already attached. Designed to lift game into a pickup truck, I may find a place near the side rail to mount a receiver. Using another idea, I may put a 2nd receiver on the roll bar for misc. uses. Thanks to everyone for the ideas.
 

The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I was referring to getting it down and up (more to get a spare back up assuming you were going to try and salvage it). I used the jack to lift the truck but it is a pain in the ass to try and get the lugs lined up while lifting the tire (alone). I need to pick up an impact wrench..maybe Santa will bring me one.
FOD, there are a couple of ways to make getting the wheel onto the wheel studs a little easier. For one, don't lift the axle too high. Then get the patterns reasonably lined up first. That usually means rolling the tire around a bit until the wheel's holes matches the hub (since you probably can't rotate the hub).
Then use a pry bar or something similar to lift/turn the tire and wheel until it lines up with the studs. Using a lever of some sort isn't necessary, but it sure does make it easier.
Others may well have better ideas, but that's how I've done it with hundreds of tires and wheels - some of which were quite a bit larger and heavier than the SEE's.
 

Mark1954

Member
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6
Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
...removing and replacing a 170 lb tire and wheel out of and back into the carrier which is at eye level by yourself deserves consideration. I am thinking about 2 options, a simple crane assembly that pivots at the base, using a hand crank winch to lift/lower and raise the wheel.
Mark, even I can remove the spare by myself - getting it back up there is an entirely different story. I think the simple pivoting crane would be your best option, unless you want to try use the backhoe for lifting it. Having it turned to the left side instead of to the right for normal travel position just might do the trick.
Of course, if the feces are hitting the fan, I wouldn't worry about reclaiming a wheel with a flat tire. And I also wouldn't even try to use the spare unless the tire's injury was so bad that I couldn't fix it with a Safety Seal kit.[/QUOTE

FLU Farm
I could probably get the tire & wheel off easy enough - gravity helps, but don't know why I would risk lfe and limb putting back alone, and I am positive DW would not be able to replace it. I would always salvage anything I cannot easily replace, circumstances permitting. (I am thinking in the present tense, side of the road, not some apocalyptic future with Mad Max baddies bearing down.👺) I suppose in a pinch, just roll it into the loader and chain it down till you get to assistance.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
FLU Farm I could probably get the tire & wheel off easy enough - gravity helps, but don't know why I would risk lfe and limb putting back alone, and I am positive DW would not be able to replace it. I would always salvage anything I cannot easily replace, circumstances permitting. (I am thinking in the present tense, side of the road, not some apocalyptic future with Mad Max baddies bearing down.👺) I suppose in a pinch, just roll it into the loader and chain it down till you get to assistance.
I'll be busy building roof stuff tomorrow, but when I get a chance to start working on the SEE again, I'll try rigging a strap or chain to the backhoe and find out if it's feasible to use it to lift a tire and wheel back up that way. Just happen to have a wheel with a busted tire sitting near it.
Oh, and as peakbagger (I believe) has pointed out in the past, make sure that you can get the spare unbolted from its resting place to start with. I had to fight with the one on the SEE for quite a while. Luckily I did that before I needed to use the spare.
 

profo

Active member
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Location
jeanerette,la
IMG_1409.jpgIMG_1361.jpgIMG_1352.jpgIMG_1376.jpg
Thanks FLUFARM! I knewIMG_1359.jpg the experts would help school this novice. Didn't I see someone add a top mount AC? That would help here in Mississippi. I think the guy had removed all the big implements and maybe the FOPS, put the spare on the roof, and added, among other things, a hydraulic welder. Marty, was that you? I thought I remembered he was somewhere in Louisiana.
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FOD

New member
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Location
NW Ohio
Finally got my historic commercial plates today after a lot of back and forth. Guess I need to find a car show to drive to this weekend.
 

Mark1954

Member
84
0
6
Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
Look what I got today. Stanley HYD Chainsaw but with the added Cutoff Saw Conversion kit. Two tools in one!

Once I have fittings I will let you guys know how it works. I have a pole fence I need to put in shortly so I think this might come in handy along with the LOWE Auger attachment ;)

View attachment 653145View attachment 653144
Very cool, I never cease to be amazed at what people come up with.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
A little more progress. Now it's only a matter of installing the cross members. And the roofing panels.DSCN1435[1].jpg

Did take a peek at the SEE and it sure looks like adding a D-ring (or something similar) on the left side plate up by the dipper cylinder's rod would allow lifting the spare up and down. Obviously the backhoe can't be tilted forward quite as far as when in the normal travel position (turned to the right), or the cooler would get creamed. When I get a chance I'll tape a string to that point and see if it would work in (a bit more like) real life. That would also tell how long the chain/rope needs to be to get the spare as close as possible to an ideal position.
 

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
I asked this question previously, in a slightly different way. But does anyone know exactly what "Overhauled at RRAD" means vs "Recapped at RRAD". I ran across this article tonight.
http://www.kmimediagroup.com/milita...-7-issue-1-february/6421-vehicle-reset-sp-535
Forgive my ignorance, but I didn't know that "recapped" was short for recapitalization. According to the article, RRAD either "recapitalizes" vehicles or "resets" them. Recapitalization sounds more extensive than resetting. Not sure where "overhauling" falls in the mix, unless Chip Foose is somehow involved. The reason I'm so interested is that I plan to sell 2 of my 3 units, and I want to be able to honestly tell a potential buyer as much about the unit as I can.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
A little more progress. Now it's only a matter of installing the cross members. And the roofing panels.View attachment 653215

Did take a peek at the SEE and it sure looks like adding a D-ring (or something similar) on the left side plate up by the dipper cylinder's rod would allow lifting the spare up and down. Obviously the backhoe can't be tilted forward quite as far as when in the normal travel position (turned to the right), or the cooler would get creamed. When I get a chance I'll tape a string to that point and see if it would work in (a bit more like) real life. That would also tell how long the chain/rope needs to be to get the spare as close as possible to an ideal position.
Think of the fun you'd have with a manbasket on the end of the crane hoist
 
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