FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

decal set??? Do tell where I can find those.

I happened across them in the "Parts for sale" section here on SS. They'd been posted for some time, and I got the last two sets at a very good price. Sorry.
But there might well be others ones out there, I'll keep an eye out.

 

[The FLU farm]

Tried Ahab's quotation procedure, and predictably failed. I'll practice later.

 

[73m819]

Well I am back working on the SEE, now have fuel gauge, amp gauge, the 5 indicator lights (pto ect), have tach but have a question in a bit, have temp gauge but reads hot, acts like no ground but as far as I can tell the ground is good, will go after wire 30 and see if that is the issue, no oil pressure, this also could be wire 30. I modded the indicator tights wiring, the power CAME from the the three lever light switch the dash lights had to be on along with brake/turn signal or head lights, if these are turned off NO indicator lights, I switched wire 49 from the light switch to the accessory post on the key switch, this way the operator will see what is going on when he/she starts the unit.

FIRST my issue
The tach reads a bit above idle speed (about right for the rpm I am at), as the rpm goes up the tack ONLY goes up a tiny bit then stops, no matter how high the rpm goes. The RAT DINNER wiring seems correct ???

Now my tack question,

This is copy and paste from the -20-1 concerning this tack issue.

Step 4. Check for +24 VDC between wire 31S (5) and ground at tachometer (6). have 24v
. If +24 VDC is present, go to step 6.
l If +24 VDC is not present, go to step 5.
Step 5. Disconnect connector D (7) and check for +24 VDC between wire 31S (5) and ground.
• If +24 VDC is not present, repair wiring 31S between connector D and alternator. have 24v, if I do not have and repair 31s does that mean now the tac is bad ????
]Step 6. Check for +24 VDC between wire 36 ( and ground at tachometer (6).
• If +24 VDC is present, replace tachometer (page 4-12. have 24v
• If +24 VDC is not present, repair wiring 36 between tachometer
and fuse box 1.[/COLOR] Now if do not and I repair wire 36 so there is power does that now mean the the tack is now bad ???

THIS is very confusing

ANY THOUGHTS

This why I love this POS so much NOT

 

[BigBison]

Anyway, please teach me how to do those helpful "multiple quotes", as you did above.

Once the post I'm responding to is pulled up in "reply with quote," I copy the opening quote with post reference, manually type [] with /quote between them where I want it to break, my response follows, then I paste the opening quote before the next bit I want to reply to. On this forum, I go back and edit my post for line breaks the editor automagically removes for some reason.

 

[BigBison]

These days, knowing that the 4WD actuation is by air, I would suspect that 4WD may have disengaged when the low air pressure warning light comes on. But my FLUs feel/sound/act differently when in 4WD. Also, I've only used 4WD a handful of times, still subscribing to my Jeeping method of saving that feature for when it's really needed.

Sometimes 4WD disengages above the air-pressure warning lamp, sometimes below. Rolling down the road at 10mph, I can't tell any difference unless the diffs are locked, then the slightest steering input feels "gravelly." Without diff-lock, I have to be turning to feel any buck from having 4WD engaged, not noticeable just altering lane position by a degree or two. Kinda like my pickup trucks -- I've lost track of how many times I come out of Oak Creek Canyon in 4WD to hit a long, straight, sunny road before I notice the 4WD light's still on and pop 'er into 2WD.

Doing snow removal here, 85% of the time I need 4WD, the other 15% of the compound doesn't really need plowing. Constantly shifting to 2WD while reversing for another pass to avoid losing air pressure on my SEE is just a pain in the butt, I'd rather leave it in 4WD with occasional diff-lock.

I used diff-lock extensively today, it was time to cut through the windrow from the County plow-grader at the end of the driveway. Snow removal usually "floats" over this, building up a big bump this time of year. I could type for hours about how happy I am with the SEE vs. a regular 4x4 backhoe w/ no suspension, for this job. Pointing the bucket teeth down to break through the ice, loader bucket in "float" etc., I made quicker work of the task in the Mog than I can recall from doing the same task with anything short of an articulated loader. It was actually kind of fun! If I had better tires, and was chained up, diff lock wouldn't have made a whole lot of difference. Today, I couldn't have done without it, but yeah it's obvious when it's in diff lock.

Then the rear-end slid sideways while I was focused on operating the bucket, glanced at the dash, sure enough the 4WD lights were out despite having enough air to keep that other light off. I hopped out and played with my dog while air pressure built, then it was no problem getting back to work. Warm enough outside today to make traction a real nightmare, while also making it possible to tackle that packed windrow at the end of the driveway, which wouldn't have budged at subzero temps, even with chains.

 

[BigBison]

Erm, was warm outside, as I typed that last post, it cooled down enough that suddenly the fog's thick enough to cut with a knife! Glad I just finished, 5' visibility just isn't enough for plowing!

 

[BigBison]

Now if do not and I repair wire 36 so there is power does that now mean the the tack is now bad ???

Sounds like a bad gauge, assuming the sender's working? The tach on my HMMH works properly. The one on my SEE requires some throttle blipping after it warms up & the idle smooths out, then functions properly. So either the tach or the sender on my SEE has issues...

You say amp gauge, the manual says ammeter, am I missing a gauge on both my FLUs? All I have are voltmeters...

 

[General Hood]

I happened across them in the "Parts for sale" section here on SS. They'd been posted for some time, and I got the last two sets at a very good price. Sorry.
But there might well be others ones out there, I'll keep an eye out.

I bought a couple sets of those decals too, to be installed when T shirt weather comes around again

 

[73m819]

IT IS WIRING, a BIG rat eat the wiring, had 60 eat ends BEFORE I stopped counting, I have NO reason to believe that all the nonworking crap on this POS is anything but wiring, today worked on the oil pressure and temp gauges, they now wake up BUT the oil pressure pegs high and the temp gauge goes to the bottom of the temp scale and stays there, drop the power they both drop to where they rest when no power, ran straight power to wire 305-302-304 30 goes from 304 on the oil pressure sender to the 30 post on the temp sender, no change, think 34p wire goes to the oil pressure sender and 34t wire goes to the temp sender, something like 3 wire numbers going though three different things to get power to something is totally stupid on top of this 305 got its power from the 3 lever, this means the the headlight switch had to be on, I did a temp mod, bypassed this another bit of stupidity, trying to take as much out of the circuits as possible, I can put that crap back in if needed. in this case it is ether wire 304/30 or 34p/t , now 30 (a DIFFERENT 30) comes from the dash gauge to the fuel sender, a ONE wire circut, and the fuel gauge WORKS.

This SORRY POS as far as the wiring is far worse then a cucv and even worse then the POS fmtv series

Another question, how do you read the crap German fuses, I will be REPLACING this crap with AMERICAN fuse holders so I can use EASY TO GET everyday auto part fuses.

I would most likely get banded if I REALLY posted what I thought of this POS, so POS will have to do.

 

[The FLU farm]

Once the post I'm responding to is pulled up in "reply with quote," I copy the opening quote with post reference, manually type [] with /quote between them where I want it to break, my response follows, then I paste the opening quote before the next bit I want to reply to. On this forum, I go back and edit my post for line breaks the editor automagically removes for some reason.

Thanks, Bison, I'll try your version, too.

Not much progress on anything since I screwed my back up, again, dismounting SEE tires and loading up the wheels.

But it did give me time to fix the old fuel filter housing. The bleeder screws are not normal bolts like on the replacement setup I installed, but look more like Barbie's banjo bolts. Hard to tell for sure after the beating it took to remove the wounded one. But since regular bolts work in the replacement housing, the 3/8" bolt I tapped the hole for should work, too.
Also noticed that there were no washers under the bolts that hold the filters, and while they may not be needed there, it sure looks as if the housing is made for sealing washers.
If that's the case, many of us could be chasing air leaks from that source.
Next visit to NAPA will include buying some copper washers - just like with the O-rings, I have every size but the correct one.

And while on the subject of air leaks, yesterday evening I found fittings that seem to work with the 22x1.5 thread at the air tank drain valves. Also ordered some 3/8" NPT mini ball valves to go in the fittings. If it works, it'll cost just over $10 per drain to get rid of those pesky leaks.

Even got a fair amount of little stuff in the garage organized. Sometimes, being a gimp pays off.

 

[The FLU farm]

Sounds like a bad gauge, assuming the sender's working? The tach on my HMMH works properly. The one on my SEE requires some throttle blipping after it warms up & the idle smooths out, then functions properly. So either the tach or the sender on my SEE has issues...

You say amp gauge, the manual says ammeter, am I missing a gauge on both my FLUs? All I have are voltmeters...

That's how my SEE is, too. The tach (and other things) won't work until the alternator starts charging, which takes a bit more rpm on that one. Which happens to be the one with erratic charging.
Volt meters only in my FLUs, too. Sounds like the originally planned to use that shunt - which I have yet to remove.

 

[The FLU farm]

I bought a couple sets of those decals too, to be installed when T shirt weather comes around again

Does that mean you don't want to duplicate my (soon to be covered) Magic Marker scribblings?!?

 

[Another Ahab]

Thanks, Bison, I'll try your version, too.

Not much progress on anything since I screwed my back up, again, dismounting SEE tires and loading up the wheels.

That stinks, and I'm sorry you threw your back out like that. For what it's worth, you're not alone. I threw my back out a couple of weeks back for no good reason; opening a can to feed the cats, and 'ping'! It's such a drag....

 

[The FLU farm]

...on top of this 305 got its power from the 3 lever, this means the the headlight switch had to be on, I did a temp mod, bypassed this another bit of stupidity, trying to take as much out of the circuits as possible,Another question, how do you read the crap German fuses, I will be REPLACING this crap with AMERICAN fuse holders so I can use EASY TO GET everyday auto part fuses.

When time permits, my headlight switch will be gone. Three normal switches will take its place. One for headlights (okay, work lights in my case) one for parking lights, and one for the dash lights. And possibly a fourth one for the indicator lights. Maybe.

If memory serves me, the amperage is "cast" into the body of the OE fuses.

 

[The FLU farm]

That stinks, and I'm sorry you threw your back out like that. For what it's worth, you're not alone. I threw my back out a couple of weeks back for no good reason; opening a can to feed the cats, and 'ping'! It's such a drag....

Thanks, Ahab. It's getting better. I even laid down on the horses' TheraPlate a few times to get it vibrated back into shape.
As long as it doesn't stay crappy for more than a few months, I can live with it. The first time it lasted some 30 years, the second time only a few weeks. Sure doesn't help when going into it already sleep deprived, though.
Do you want to borrow my mobility scooter? I haven't thrown that one out yet, for no good reason.

 

[General Hood]

IT IS WIRING, a BIG rat eat the wiring, had 60 eat ends BEFORE I stopped counting, I have NO reason to believe that all the nonworking crap on this POS is anything but wiring, today worked on the oil pressure and temp gauges, they now wake up BUT the oil pressure pegs high and the temp gauge goes to the bottom of the temp scale and stays there, drop the power they both drop to where they rest when no power, ran straight power to wire 305-302-304 30 goes from 304 on the oil pressure sender to the 30 post on the temp sender, no change, think 34p wire goes to the oil pressure sender and 34t wire goes to the temp sender, something like 3 wire numbers going though three different things to get power to something is totally stupid on top of this 305 got its power from the 3 lever, this means the the headlight switch had to be on, I did a temp mod, bypassed this another bit of stupidity, trying to take as much out of the circuits as possible, I can put that crap back in if needed. in this case it is ether wire 304/30 or 34p/t , now 30 (a DIFFERENT 30) comes from the dash gauge to the fuel sender, a ONE wire circut, and the fuel gauge WORKS.

This SORRY POS as far as the wiring is far worse then a cucv and even worse then the POS fmtv series

Another question, how do you read the crap German fuses, I will be REPLACING this crap with AMERICAN fuse holders so I can use EASY TO GET everyday auto part fuses.

I would most likely get banded if I REALLY posted what I thought of this POS, so POS will have to do.

Since I am not an electrician, my advise is next to worthless, however......I also have a POC SEE rat chew wiring nightmare and I have managed to work through 60% of my wiring issues. It's a slow, sometimes painful process. Something to consider here, my amp gauge worked intermittent and I was inclined to think that the gauge itself was the culprit, but it was the wiring. There was a very small notch in the wire sheathing thus exposing the inner wire (barely visible to the naked eye)and when that compromised section of wire would touch metal, the gauge became inoperable. Hang in there Ron, you'll get that machine SEEworthy again. Hey, if I can kick the door, throw tools across the yard, peel bark off the tree with my bare hands and cuss the engineer who designed this thing to the top of my lungs, and still see it through, we know you can my friend. At least you are able to trace the wire #s. I had lots of wires chewed through where the wiring # would have been

 

[Another Ahab]

Thanks, Ahab. It's getting better. I even laid down on the horses' TheraPlate a few times to get it vibrated back into shape.
As long as it doesn't stay crappy for more than a few months, I can live with it. The first time it lasted some 30 years, the second time only a few weeks. Sure doesn't help when going into it already sleep deprived, though.
Do you want to borrow my mobility scooter? I haven't thrown that one out yet, for no good reason.

Yeah, please DON'T "throw that out", because someday I might just take you up on the offer!

 

[Another Ahab]

Hang in there Ron, you'll get that machine SEEworthy again. Hey, if I can kick the door, throw tools across the yard, peel bark off the tree with my bare hands and cuss the engineer who designed this thing to the top of my lungs, and still see it through, we know you can my friend. At least you are able to trace the wire #s. I had lots of wires chewed through where the wiring # would have been

And there are some who say God is a Merciful God, but She/ He/ It can also be Mischievous sometimes, too.

 

[88FLU419]

SEE air pressure now comes up to 106psi, the regulator pops and everything (like the HMMH, first I've heard that noise from the SEE), but now the bleed valve on the large air tank leaks (actually started at the gas station while I was airing up the tires, when the malamute went under the truck and hit it). Is that a serviceable part, if so how, or does it need replaced?

I got new drain valves from expedition imports I believe. They were cheap, maybe $8 each.

 

[BigBison]

Another question, how do you read the crap German fuses, I will be REPLACING this crap with AMERICAN fuse holders so I can use EASY TO GET everyday auto part fuses.

German fuses may be silly, but they are easy. The color-coding on the ceramic is similar to the color-coding on American fuses, although I'll admit a chart comes in handy. Between the general store and the feed store, out here in the middle of nowhere, I'm not hurting for German fuses enough to go to the pick-n-pull. If I drive another 45 minutes, NAPA, Ace, and CarQuest all have 'em. Of all the parts I can't score easily hereabouts, German ceramic fuses aren't one of 'em? Five stores carry 'em within an hour drive...