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It's a Bosch part, as I recall. And older NOS may well be better than recent production. Then again, maybe not.What I mean by searching out a part #, is where does EI or Porsche source theirs from?
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It's a Bosch part, as I recall. And older NOS may well be better than recent production. Then again, maybe not.What I mean by searching out a part #, is where does EI or Porsche source theirs from?
The FLU gods are full of humor.No, all FLUs are definitely not the same. That's why I can't get to the fuel lines on top of the tank, or get the tank out for that matter, on the parts SEE. Meanwhile there's plenty of room (up to 2.75 inches more) on the ones I don't need to access the fuel lines on.
Don't take the TMs as gospel when it comes to the preparations necessary to do a certain task. I can recall many instances where a -20 did not mention all pre-work which had to be done before replacing a certain part. Granted, I had a motor pool full of tracked vehicles, not SEEs, but the people that write the manuals are the same.TM 5-2420-224-20-2 pg 4-171 says different.
Hmmm. Now I'm curious. Does the parts SEE have a rebuild plate? How about the other two FLUs? The kind of difference you describe is pretty unusual for a military vehicle with a low production run coming off (I assume) a single assembly line.No, all FLUs are definitely not the same. That's why I can't get to the fuel lines on top of the tank, or get the tank out for that matter, on the parts SEE. Meanwhile there's plenty of room (up to 2.75 inches more) on the ones I don't need to access the fuel lines on.
No, that one does not, as I recall. From the looks of it, several parts and pieces were replaced (the backhoe's cylinders and hoses, for example) but then they must've stopped somewhere before the painting process. The hood's bare metal (well, rusted) , but the lack of new paint makes it easy to see what was worked on.Hmmm. Now I'm curious. Does the parts SEE have a rebuild plate? How about the other two FLUs? The kind of difference you describe is pretty unusual for a military vehicle with a low production run coming off (I assume) a single assembly line.
I sure wasn't when fighting that tank. And to make the issue even more irritating, after installing the 24 Volt fuel pump I'd bought to help find the air leaks in the line, it turned out to be dead. My bad, I KNEW that I should've bench tested a $14 pump before plumbing it in.The FLU gods are full of humor.![]()
One thing I learned the hard way as a kid was WD40 removes all existing lubrication. Especially on skateboard wheels. Lol better of using hydraulic fluid or gear oil to treat exposed portions of the rods.All good ideas, thanks. It looks like the dipper cylinder has already been replaced, since it's a different color. What would you recommend cleaning the rods with? Something like WD-40? I've used hydraulics before, but never had to maintain them.
EDIT: That's the bucket cylinder that's been replaced, not the dipper.
Right you are. I use hydraulic fluid, engine oil, vaseline, or whatever is handy to lube the rods. But for cleaning them first, WD-40 actually works.One thing I learned the hard way as a kid was WD40 removes all existing lubrication. Especially on skateboard wheels. Lol better of using hydraulic fluid or gear oil to treat exposed portions of the rods.
A plumbing supply house might be able to get you 4 1/4 -8 pipe cap but, then you will need to machine NPT to NPS so the cap won't seal. Or, keep the taper of the threads and drill and tap a vent in the cap. Mcmaster-Carr has threaded vents.I posted a few months back about looking for a passenger seat. Does anyone have one they are not using. I am also looking for a fuel cap for the FLU.
I thought the cap is not vented, and that's why there's a vent on the tank. Either way, I've seen fuel caps for sale, probably on Expedition Imports' web site.A plumbing supply house might be able to get you 4 1/4 -8 pipe cap but, then you will need to machine NPT to NPS so the cap won't seal. Or, keep the taper of the threads and drill and tap a vent in the cap. Mcmaster-Carr has threaded vents.
Yup, that looks like the real thing. A bit pricey with the strainer attached, though.Its not in FLU19 listings but this looks to be it
Just put a "Gasoline only" decal on the tank. A thief with a Diesel vehicle will leave it alone. And a thief with a gasoline vehicle won't get very far after they siphon Diesel into their tank.View attachment 669862Think its worth to safe the cap not only the diesel.