General Hood
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Telehandler vs SEE vs massive tree / vegetation overgrowth = GP Texarkana prep for auctionDoes that mean they were almost as good at it as GP is?!?
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Telehandler vs SEE vs massive tree / vegetation overgrowth = GP Texarkana prep for auctionDoes that mean they were almost as good at it as GP is?!?
In all fairness, they do take several photos...and check the seat belt function.Telehandler vs SEE vs massive tree / vegetation overgrowth = GP Texarkana prep for auction
Finally, I found the Unimog related mention!! Do I get a price?My GMCMH has the "Electro-Level I" system on it (never was a II as far as I can tell). OEM, you got a Schrader valve you could fill anywhere within a PSI range at any gas-station compressor. Full air-ride suspension, but no switches left of the driver to level off at a campsite, and no on-board air (small, ancient, belt-drive DC) compressor. Electro-Level was a dealer-only option. Until about yesterday, I assumed all GMCMH's had the same switches & compressor as mine. I have all the original documentation, and I've now seen pics of others' installations.
The dealership that originally installed mine, thankfully used different-color air tubing for the different bits of the system. They also Xeroxed the diagram, and colored it in according to the color tubing they'd used. 40 years later, like, bless someone's soul for doing it this way! It would be so hard to learn how the system works, let alone replace & relocate the compressor as I'm doing, without that sort of guide. Applies to the electrical connections, too. I may buy one color of air tubing, but I'll be using different colors of heat-shrink to identify the different "circuits."
(The old typewritten manual with hand-drawn diagrams is quaint, but also quite detailed as to how the 8" of rear suspension travel changes caster & camber on all 3 pairs of wheels.)
There are six air solenoids and two, two-way height-control valves on my GMC. Four solenoids are three-way, the other two are two-way. What seems complicated at first, turns out to be fairly simple & elegant, but it sure helps to have the color-coded diagram & tubing! A concept I'll be carrying over to the FLUs as I work on their electrical and air systems. I'll be ready to tackle my SEE's air foibles after I've re-done the air suspension on my GMC.
ATM, the GMC's all gutted out inside, with the exception of the suspension "air control system," and a loop of engine-coolant cable that used to plumb into a separate heat exchanger inside the 10-gallon AC water heater. Yeah, kinda exactly like having hydraulic windshield wipers. I'll be circulating engine coolant through the entire "house" for hydronic heating, which isn't much of a stretch considering half the plumbing exists for it already.
I can't swear by the truth of this, but I recall reading where suing the related municipality for car damage from potholes is an automatic victory for anybody who pursues it (anywhere in the country if I remember it right).For the record, I've only ever filed one lawsuit, 20 years ago. I sued my County government on anti-trust grounds, and prevailed.
That is odd, considering people's apparent sue happiness. Must be that I'm not the only one who find it easier to simply steer around them thar potholes.I can't swear by the truth of this, but I recall reading where suing the related municipality for car damage from potholes is an automatic victory for anybody who pursues it (anywhere in the country if I remember it right).
You can only recover damages for the related repair, nothing more, but it's automatically yours. Still, hardly anybody does it.
I searched some of the Euro sites too, hoping to find Schmidt loader parts, but without luck. Ended up walking into the local Kubota dealer. They made up an exact copy of the one hose I really needed in less than five minutes. Didn't even get a chance to look through all of their forestry tools! That's probably a good thing, as I just would have spent more money.The other issue is that there seems to be a far more active parts market in Europe for mog parts and frequently a web search doesn't pick up those sites.
FWIW, mine has only1090mi on the odometer, but north of 10,000 hours on the engine. So I'm about 2,500 hours away from the recommended OM352 rebuild mark.No luck on today's FLU419 auction. Got outbid on two low mile ones and did not want to take the risk on the ones with thousands of miles on the clock.
For the next try it would be valuable to know what the current FLU419 owners consider acceptable as far a miles on the odometer is concerned?
Who has the one with the most miles that is still running strong and did not need major repairs?
If they are being sold off at surplus auction, its a crap shot. Lack of use or abuse is worse than normal use. The only exceptions are rebuilt versions that got rebuilt and then parked. Who knows how many shortcuts were taken during the years while the not rebuilt SEEs got parked before they were finally hauled to Texas or some other depot to be used for parts?. My observation of the limited quick fixes on my SEE is that every repair was a hack fix intended to get it running again but with no regard to long term suitability. I expect that since yours was being run, it may have gotten normal maintenance. The military was a firm believer in oil analysis and if you are paranoid you could get an oil analysis done on your engine.FWIW, mine has only1090mi on the odometer, but north of 10,000 hours on the engine. So I'm about 2,500 hours away from the recommended OM352 rebuild mark.
I think relying on the mileage is a crapshoot; you could get a good truck or a problematic one either way. Less than half of GP's published checks turned out to be accurate on mine (in my favor, fortunately).
I think you'll find that 2,500 hours is a LOT of backhoe work, and that you might be worn out before the engine is.FWIW, mine has only1090mi on the odometer, but north of 10,000 hours on the engine. So I'm about 2,500 hours away from the recommended OM352 rebuild mark.
I think relying on the mileage is a crapshoot; you could get a good truck or a problematic one either way. Less than half of GP's published checks turned out to be accurate on mine (in my favor, fortunately).
Hmmm...sounds like a good way to fund retirement.If in doubt when paying for someone who knows MOGs to work on your rig that every bill is rounded up to the nearest $1000 increment and there is no such thing as a firm estimate or schedule.
If fighting rat damage and nearly impossible to reach fasteners is a good way to fund retirement I'd hate to think what a bad way is.Hmmm...sounds like a good way to fund retirement.