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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

anthkey

Member
98
7
8
Location
Cumming ga
might be a silly question... but, not ran my 419 too much with the backhoe.. but when is the hydraulic cooling fan to kick on? at start up or after a certain temp is reached?
dont want to burn it up????
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
There is temperature switch on the hydraulic circuit. There is a black terminal block at the base of the fan box If you look at the electrical diagnostics its not that hard to move a wire around to jump out the switch to see if the fans run.

The fans are somewhat infamous for water leaking in a wire grommet rusting out the fan internals. The army fix is to goop up the grommet. If the fans are failed it will blow a fuse which supplies power to the backhoe remote throttle, the loader remote lift, the service floodlights and the hydraulic hose reel.

I expect some folks fixed the fuse blowing issue by disconnecting the fans. I haven't see a source of replacement fans but EI has the complete assembly. It might be worth taking stick and see is the fans will turn.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
might be a silly question... but, not ran my 419 too much with the backhoe.. but when is the hydraulic cooling fan to kick on? at start up or after a certain temp is reached?
dont want to burn it up????
Okay, my silly question is how much is too much, and why?
It's easy enough to feel the hard hydraulic lines on the cooler with your hand every now and then while operating the backhoe. They would be warm to the touch if everything's working correctly. If they feel hot, something is not right.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,988
4,527
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Okay, my silly question is how much is too much, and why?
It's easy enough to feel the hard hydraulic lines on the cooler with your hand every now and then while operating the backhoe. They would be warm to the touch if everything's working correctly. If they feel hot, something is not right.
And I'm guessing then that if they're fully engulfed in flame than the message is that you should have just stayed in bed.


ABC.jpg
 

anthkey

Member
98
7
8
Location
Cumming ga
There is temperature switch on the hydraulic circuit. There is a black terminal block at the base of the fan box If you look at the electrical diagnostics its not that hard to move a wire around to jump out the switch to see if the fans run.

The fans are somewhat infamous for water leaking in a wire grommet rusting out the fan internals. The army fix is to goop up the grommet. If the fans are failed it will blow a fuse which supplies power to the backhoe remote throttle, the loader remote lift, the service floodlights and the hydraulic hose reel.

I expect some folks fixed the fuse blowing issue by disconnecting the fans. I haven't see a source of replacement fans but EI has the complete assembly. It might be worth taking stick and see is the fans will turn.
the backhoe remote switch "was" working, now it's not.. where might the fuse be located?
 

anthkey

Member
98
7
8
Location
Cumming ga
Okay, my silly question is how much is too much, and why?
It's easy enough to feel the hard hydraulic lines on the cooler with your hand every now and then while operating the backhoe. They would be warm to the touch if everything's working correctly. If they feel hot, something is not right.
10..15 min running the hoe...
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
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360
63
Location
northern nh
the backhoe remote switch "was" working, now it's not.. where might the fuse be located?
Standing in front of the truck there are two fuse holders. The fuse you want is the red one all the way to the left in the fusebox on the right. The fuses are numbered left to right so this is fuse #1 of fuse box #1 (fuse box #1 is on the right side, fuse box #2 is on the left side)

Page 4-169 in volume 2 of the technical manual volume 2 has a list all the fuses and what they do, unfortunately there are other things like the backhoe remote that appears to have been added on after the manuals were written so its not on the list.

Do note that there is a service bulletin on the switches accessible from the backhoe. They fill up with water and corrode, so if its not a bad fuse you have to go through the electrical diagnosis for these systems. Another thing to look at is the wiring attached to the back of the loader hydraulic control valves, it is very exposed to damage. If you haven gone through the collection of the military service bulletins that I stored in the Misc technical Bulletin section it might be worth a look.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
10..15 min running the hoe...
I wouldn't call running the backhoe for 10 to 15 minutes "too much". If anything, it's on the short side for getting the fluid warmed up enough to do any good.
It's not uncommon for me to run the backhoe for several hours, basically until it starts getting dark, or I'm about to run out of fuel, whichever comes first.

Probably warming the hydraulics a lot more is when running the snowblower, since that is a constant load. I doubt that even a skilled operator could put that kind of strain on the system with the backhoe. The longest I've run the snowblower continuously is less than two hours, but still.

I'm still curious about why you think it was "too much", and what (if anything) makes you think that there's a problem. Okay, the remote switch isn't working now you say, but that could be air pressure related or for other reasons.
You could power the fans directly to verify their function, one at a time, using either a separate battery or the ones in the SEE,
Also, I wouldn't worry too much about what fuse powers what. Why not replace any or all bad fuses?
 

anthkey

Member
98
7
8
Location
Cumming ga
Standing in front of the truck there are two fuse holders. The fuse you want is the red one all the way to the left in the fusebox on the right. The fuses are numbered left to right so this is fuse #1 of fuse box #1 (fuse box #1 is on the right side, fuse box #2 is on the left side)

Page 4-169 in volume 2 of the technical manual volume 2 has a list all the fuses and what they do, unfortunately there are other things like the backhoe remote that appears to have been added on after the manuals were written so its not on the list.

Do note that there is a service bulletin on the switches accessible from the backhoe. They fill up with water and corrode, so if its not a bad fuse you have to go through the electrical diagnosis for these systems. Another thing to look at is the wiring attached to the back of the loader hydraulic control valves, it is very exposed to damage. If you haven gone through the collection of the military service bulletins that I stored in the Misc technical Bulletin section it might be worth a look.
where might I find this ?new to this site... didn't see in the technical manuals tab?
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Speaking of fuses, the fuse boxes and fuses on the SEE is definitely not one of Mercedes great ideas. The plastic covers are missing on most SEEs and folks tend to leave the hoods off. The fuses (especially generic replacements) can corrode at the spot where they meet the holder. Its good idea to go through all the fuses one by one and clean each fuse holder and fuse end. If the fuses come out real easy you may want to gently bend the holders to tighten up on the fuse. I actually pay a few extra bucks and buy genuine Bosch fuses.
 

The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
when operating the loader, or backhoe... what should I be setting the throttle RPM to while using the units?
When using the loader it all depends on what speed you're driving, and in what gear. Use the engine rpm of your choice as if driving normally. The loader will work from idle on up.
If setting the high speed idle for backhoe use, the rpm should end up around 1,800. I can't operate a backhoe anywhere near well enough to justify that high rpm, instead running around 1,200. Sometimes less. About the only time I find myself having to raise the rpm a bit is when lowering or raising the backhoe.

You may want to read all the prior posts one more time. Yeah, it's a lot of reading and much info to absorb. I'm due for my third (or is it fourth?) re-read.
Anyway, so far most everything you've brought up has been covered at least once in older posts.
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
I searched some of the Euro sites too, hoping to find Schmidt loader parts, but without luck.
Maybe because Schmidt's an American company? ;) I know a local CDOT plow driver, the v-plows retrofitted on the front of County motor graders for snow removal here are Schmidt, which they wouldn't be if they weren't at least American-made (due to County procurement rules), but it's my understanding they're based in Minnesota.
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
And that's one of the reasons I'm not too worried about parts supplies in the future. With DOD releasing 3000+ of these, there should be plenty of parted out SEEs for years to come.
Production numbers on my series Honda Prelude, and my '70 BMW coupe, are around 100,000 each. My BMW R90S is one of 17,500 made. My GMCMH is one of 13,000. My 1st-gen VW Scirocco is one of 9,600. Those vehicles are laced with hard-to-come-by parts these days, I get no comfort from the much-lower numbers of FLUs. Although it *is* a 409 Unimog with standard backhoe/loader-type parts, I imagine I'll be hoarding more FLU parts in the future than I will parts for any other vehicles I own. I also imagine it will take me the next few years to figure out which FLU parts are "uber-rare" enough to hoard. Why I'm after a "parts SEE" like FLU Farm has...

Not so sure that the DoD can release 3,000 of them, though. I've read that "only" 2,800 were built.

Even rounding up to 3,000 still doesn't make FLUs anything but uber-rare.
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
With the Michelins I preferred to stay at 30 mph or less.
Agreed, 25mph is actually my top speed in the SEE on the highway; the HMMH, otoh, convoys at 45mph no problem without all the side-to-side oscillation of the SEE at half that speed. I still just have the OEM tires on both.

What I don't know, is how much of this is to be expected on the SEE with its huge mass of loader bucket out in front of the steer wheels, or if it's more my SEE's front-end is more worn than my HMMH's, which is also to be expected from all that mass sitting all that way forward of the steer wheels even when the loader's not in use -- vs. the HMMH which only has that kind of mass out there when carrying a load.
 
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