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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

What I have found regarding chainsaws is that there are two brands to choose from, Fairmont-Greenlee or Stanley. As far as modern and safe, the various designs look to be relatively unchanged for years, and neither brand seems to offer a chainbrake, in the usual chainsaw sense. Since they are hydraulic, and don't need a flywheel to deliver consistent power, they are inherently safer than ICE chainsaws. When you release the trigger, the chain stops. Not instantly, like an engaged brake though.

Do your research and watch the various videos available online, and decide whether you are comfortable with what they are.
 
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The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I'm joining this group of FLU 419 owners as I had mine delivered 2 weeks ago after "winning" one at the Texas auction. Before taking the plunge I did several months research including reading threads like this.
Welcome, FLUmmoxed. If you have read threads like this and still wants to join in, you're really welcome.
Surely you've already noticed that guys like peakbagger know their stuff (except when he starts mentioning boat products) and are worth paying attention to. Me, not so much.
Anyway, sounds like you bagged a good one, all things considered. And I'm sure you'll find the SEE very useful for all sorts of tasks around the homestead.
You can get the keys and hood/battery box wrench from Expedition Imports, for example. When you get the charging working, the tach will most likely come alive.
I read, somewhere, about a frozen clutch which was successfully freed up "from the outside". Once I remember where, I'll let you know (don't hold your breath).
 

anthkey

Member
98
7
8
Location
Cumming ga
Hi all,
I'm joining this group of FLU 419 owners as I had mine delivered 2 weeks ago after "winning" one at the Texas auction. Before taking the plunge I did several months research including reading threads like this. I was looking for a tractor device to help out on our 40 acre farm operation. It has pasture and forest, a couple of ponds, an old gothic arched barn. We plan to manage sheep, cows, poultry as well as do some crops on terraces. It has rolling hills. We also plan on building several residences to house our offspring's families. That means making roads, digging trenches and foundations, hoisting beams, etc. The FLU seemed like a good alternative to the standard farm tractor and at half the price, twice the weight and thrice the power. And I'm a hobbyist Mercedes car mechanic x 45 years.
So I got a non-running example. The auction pictures looked good to me, not too much damage or too many missing parts. I was willing to take the risk. One thing I noticed from the pictures was that the engine was painted black and the exhaust manifold still had black paint on it-not burned off. I was thinking this could be a new "crate" engine. The inspector's report was pretty useless as nothing could be tested, but it did say the engine turned when they attempted their jump start. It had four inflated tires and spare, so it could at least roll. I had it shipped on a trailer 2500 miles.
Since arrival I have had about 2 full days available for inspection and repairs. I got it running after charging up the batteries and replacing the rubber portion of the 2 cracked fuels lines at the tank. When nothing happened when I pressed the starter button, I followed the trouble shooting guide and cleaned up the K1 and K2 relays from their corrosion. After cranking for a minute to get the oil pressure up I released the throttle and it fired up with minimum smoke or rattles. Nice.
But there is still more to do. The pictures nor the inspector's report indicated the writing on the driver's door: "no clutch". The clutch does not disengage. The pedal goes down about half way before meeting firm resistance. It must be a rusted clutch disk. I can still drive it around by starting it in gear. And I've made a few attempts of running it against an immovable object, a large pile of sand. But the rear wheel just starts spinning in the somewhat wet ground. I have been unable to activate the 4 wheel drive or lock the differentials. The selector switch rotates and various hissings and spurts can be heard.
So the good, the bad and some questions for you all.
Good:
Brand new engine with Injection pump, alternator, starter and airpump.
Many new parts: air regulators, hydraulic hoses, cables, rubber mounts. Clutch slave and master cylinder, the brake master cylinder and booster look new, too. The front loader has a 2001 date.
No rats!!!! Lights and most gauges work.
2 new appearing (dated 2009) huge AGM batteries that charge up to 100% after 2 days of gentle 6 amp charging.
It runs, front loader works fine, Brakes are great, including hand brake, air system comes up to pressure and does not leak.
Bad:
Frozen clutch
Unable to activate 4 wheel drive or differential locks
No keys, hood release tool or electric main switch key. No chainsaw (but all the other hydraulic tools and bits are there).
The charging light stays on (the alternator does not seem to be charging as there is no boost in the voltage with the engine running) and the tachometer does not work.
Questions:
Any advice from those with experience on the best way to free up the clutch?
How do I get the 4 wheel drive to work and know that it is engaged-the manual is not too clear from what I have gleaned so far?
Any recommendations for a modern, safe hydraulic chainsaw?
Down load or save all the manuals as favorites... thousands of pages... there out there... google is my best friend...lololo
once ya tilt the cab, you will be able to get to the needed area for the 4x4 stuff (I just went through it all) Can get the cab tilted in 45 min now.. (easier each time)..
this is your components for 4x4...shift.jpg
disconnect the switch, blow air into the bottom of the switch where 24 is.... that will pressurize the system when switched in 4x4
it moves the piston that engages the arm at the top of the transfer case... then ya can listen for leaks
air the goes to the regulator to reduce the PSI from 108 to 6 PSI....
that feeds the vent tubes to the front and rear differentials so when ya go swimming... air pres. keeps the water out...
GOOD LUCK... IT's FUN...
 
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peakbagger

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northern nh
Best place to go is here https://expedition-imports.com/419Parts. for the military manuals. Scott is the owner of Expedition imports and has the largest inventory of SEE parts around.

If look on the misc technical manuals section of Steel Soldiers you can find my compilation of army service bulletins that apply to a SEE and HMMH. If you haven't seen these PS manuals its worth checking them out to see how the military educates high school graduates in the subtleties of heavy equipment maintenance;) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...om-PS-Magazine-Maintenance-and-Operating-tips

I don't think there is anyone that sells printed versions of the tech manuals. They are huge and really setup to be accessed electronically. The PDFs are hot linked and the CTRL F function of acrobat is real handy. Unless you have accessed to production grade printer don't try to print them out except maybe the operators manual as you will probably ruin a standard printer and definitely go through several toner cartridges

By the way, I have posted this before about the diff locks. Whoever wrote the manuals forgot to write up lubricating the differential lock pistons. Deep in each axle are air activated pistons that actuates the diff locks, if the pistons stick the parts are cheap but it requires a major disassembly of the axles. The air line is to engage this piston is on top of the axle tube. There is drain plug on the bottom of the axle as condensate and water can build up in the piston bore. On most SEEs the drain plug is painted shut meaning they have never been drained or lubricated. Ideally you remove the air line on top of the axle tube and squirt in light oil. My air line is painted tight so I cant unscrew it without damaging things so I opened the drain plug and flushed out the bore with marvel mystery oil.
Attached are the instructions from a civilian verson of the 419 chasis bigger brother the 1300L which has the same portal axle setup (except for overall width). View attachment Diff Locks lubication .pdf
 
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anthkey

Member
98
7
8
Location
Cumming ga
Best place to go is here https://expedition-imports.com/419Parts. for the military manuals. Scott is the owner of Expedition imports and has the largest inventory of SEE parts around.

If look on the misc technical manuals section of Steel Soldiers you can find my compilation of army service bulletins that apply to a SEE and HMMH. If you haven't seen these PS manuals its worth checking them out to see how the military educates high school graduates in the subtleties of heavy equipment maintenance;) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...om-PS-Magazine-Maintenance-and-Operating-tips

I don't think there is anyone that sells printed versions of the tech manuals. They are huge and really setup to be accessed electronically. The PDFs are hot linked and the CTRL F function of acrobat is real handy. Unless you have accessed to production grade printer don't try to print them out except maybe the operators manual as you will probably ruin a standard printer and definitely go through several toner cartridges
I started to print off just the sections that I needed and thought I might need... there is a lot of wasted pages and blank pages....
 
When I got my injector pump rebuilt, the shop was insistent that the bolt with the check valve be installed in the correct location. I will look at mine and see which position it was.
20170501_184546.jpg20170501_184602.jpg20170501_184611.jpg
Downstream of the lift pump is correct, at least for the one I have. It would close with normal fuel flow if it were upstream. I don't like the restriction it causes, though.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
After some looking I now have a "tender" for my SEE


IMG_20170430_143338_128 Dennis New Truck.jpg



Thanks to George at the Unimog Center

I do need to remove the blue lights on the roof and have to swamp out the rear as it cames complete with 4 Nato stretchers and a bunch of sliding framework to get them in and out of the box.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
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Location
northern nh
It may become a cargo truck.

Near the end of the contract for the German Government, the factory was shifting over to 1350 production. Some of the late production ambulances got fit with some 1350 parts like load adjusting headlights and a beefier gearbox. It also has the 366A turbo which is a modern rework of the 352 in the SEEs. It also has the fast axles so 60 MPH is possible. I drove it home and the difference is night and day at speed compared to a SEE. I saw 65 MPH going downhill. The engine is detuned for military use but I can get a injection pump tune up to add about 50 HP and another 50 HP is not that hard by adding an intercooler. The odd thing about this compared to SEE is they were built at the same time. The SEE is last gasp of the 406/416 that started production in the sixties and ended when the last SEE rolled out of the factory. The 1300L is from the eighties and went out of production in 1991 (possibly 92). The limiting factor on speed are the agricultural tires and the gearing. There is an overdrive that will fit it but its not cheap.

UnimogCenter.com is private person/one man shop who has been importing Mogs for years. He sells all over the country and has contacts all over Europe. Unlike Vermont Unimog, he answers the phone. His website was down when I checked it a few minutes ago, the tech data is good but he doesn't update his for sale listings as he is too busy. When I first went to visit him he has just gotten a SEE for working on his road and when I went to pick my 1300L up he had just received a second SEE that looks like it was one of the last rebuilds (2009) it looks brand new and has all the tools. He has quite the line up of 1300L variants right now, several fire rescue vehicles in mint shape both 2 door and 4 door (DOKAs) and a couple of more ambulances that also are late production that are going to get prepped and painted and sold for bigger bucks. He is picky what he imports.
 

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
UnimogCenter.com is private person/one man shop who has been importing Mogs for years. He sells all over the country and has contacts all over Europe. Unlike Vermont Unimog, he answers the phone. His website was down when I checked it a few minutes ago, the tech data is good but he doesn't update his for sale listings as he is too busy. He is picky what he imports.
Is he located in your 'neck of the woods", then?
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
After some looking I now have a "tender" for my SEE


View attachment 678712



Thanks to George at the Unimog Center

I do need to remove the blue lights on the roof and have to swamp out the rear as it cames complete with 4 Nato stretchers and a bunch of sliding framework to get them in and out of the box.
I kinda like the look of the blue lights on that truck (SEE ambulance). We hope to see more photos
 

The FLU farm

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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The actual midwest, NM.
Okay guys, and especially those who were late to the party and missed out on General Hood's excellent wall charts. If the link below works, it's the digitized version.



It's courtesy of Speedwoble, so keep him in mind as you drool over it. Oh, wait, General Hood's charts were laminated and could be drooled upon. A keyboard may not tolerate it.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
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Location
northern nh
Unimog Center is the lakes region of NH. He ships them in through Portland Maine.

I think the limiting factor on 1300s are the tires. I don't know if anyone makes a speed rated tire for them so everyone runs high speed agricultural tires that are rated at 100 KPH at the most. There are "super fast exles" sold and some folks put on bigger diameter tires which is lot cheaper than the Class overdrive.

By the way the boots on the ball joints on the track bar and tie rod also tend to rot off same as the SEE. George has a source for new boots and I think westfield 4x4 on Ebay also sells them (but I haven't tried one).
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
What size are the 1300's tires?
Same size as a SEE12.5R20 ( 335/80 R 20). My SEE tires are rough, I expect the 1300 may donate some tires to the SEE at some point. Same rims, same portal boxes, same disk brake caliper and same diff, only difference is the tubes are longer to give it a wider wheelbase.

The German military calls them two tonners.
 
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