FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[General Hood]

Well, I got her running again (after nearly two weeks). It was all about those copper crush washers. I ended up cleaning and lightly sanding both faces of each one, replacing a few with deep nicks.

When the engine finally caught, it was obvious that the leaks were gone. Runs like a champ now!

Well done patrol578

 

[General Hood]

Today we got the rear wheels back. Pic of the vertical tire mashine, sorry without a wheel.View attachment 679220
We changed the oil from the wheel gears as we find out (after years) it is easy without the wheel.View attachment 679221View attachment 679222
After all we are satisfied done some work in front of the next meeting. In about 10 days we go for excarvating in a gravel pit .

Very nice, will the gravel pit excavating be work or play?

 

[The FLU farm]

Well, I got her running again (after nearly two weeks). Runs like a champ now!

I can relate. Except in my case it's been months. Had a few minutes, and the desire, so today I hooked up a portable air tank to the vent.
Loosened the small plug at the filter housing inlet (there as a result of removing the diagnostic gizmo) and gave it some air. Nothing. Tried again, nothing. Tried the primer pump, and fuel came out in amounts never seen before. Hmm, something had changed.
Put the plug back in and tried bleeding. After a few pumps, there was resistance...just like it's supposed to be. JUBILATIONS!

Fired the (formerly) parts SEE up, and it also runs like a champ now. Guess it may be time to come up with a new name for it; SEE II? SEE Also? Double vision?

Went for a test drive, just to make sure, and went to shift into Second. It stopped. Not as in died, but stopped.
I thought it had felt a bit funny earlier, and sure enough, the front brakes were hot. Loosened a bleeder, problem solved. Well, for now anyway.

That was the good news. Now I have to fix the tool switch, replace the one cooling fan I stole to put on the SEE, a hub leak by the steering arm, and who knows what else. Oh, the Zerks that wouldn't take grease on the backhoe, and...

 

[General Hood]

I can relate. Except in my case it's been months. Had a few minutes, and the desire, so today I hooked up a portable air tank to the vent.
Loosened the small plug at the filter housing inlet (there as a result of removing the diagnostic gizmo) and gave it some air. Nothing. Tried again, nothing. Tried the primer pump, and fuel came out in amounts never seen before. Hmm, something had changed.
Put the plug back in and tried bleeding. After a few pumps, there was resistance...just like it's supposed to be. JUBILATIONS!

Fired the (formerly) parts SEE up, and it also runs like a champ now. Guess it may be time to come up with a new name for it; SEE II? SEE Also? Double vision?

Went for a test drive, just to make sure, and went to shift into Second. It stopped. Not as in died, but stopped.
I thought it had felt a bit funny earlier, and sure enough, the front brakes were hot. Loosened a bleeder, problem solved. Well, for now anyway.

That was the good news. Now I have to fix the tool switch, replace the one cooling fan I stole to put on the SEE, a hub leak by the steering arm, and who knows what else. Oh, the Zerks that wouldn't take grease on the backhoe, and...View attachment 679257

Congrats on the progress. The Parts SEE to Formerly Parts SEE to Parts SEE to Formerly Parts SEE is a nice read. I'm not as nice as the rest of you guys, I use colorful metaphors to describe my SEEs when they have problems

 

[General Hood]

Congrats on the progress. The Parts SEE to Formerly Parts SEE to Parts SEE to Formerly Parts SEE is a nice read. I'm not as nice as the rest of you guys, I use colorful metaphors to describe my SEEs when they have problems

It looks like I will be tearing into SEE #2 this weekend. Rear axle (or perhaps the brakes) lock up when driving the SEE in reverse, but it travels just fine in forward gears. Grrrrr to continuous problems

 

[The FLU farm]

It looks like I will be tearing into SEE #2 this weekend. Rear axle (or perhaps the brakes) lock up when driving the SEE in reverse, but it travels just fine in forward gears. Grrrrr to continuous problems

I can call and cheer you on. Repeatedly. Think it'd help?
Besides, what fun would life be without continuity?

 

[patrol578]

So the SEE was running great today, and I was doing a few hours of backhoe work. I climbed into the cab to move to another spot, and noticed that all of the gauges were dead...turns out my + battery cable slipped off while I was working (blame me for not tightening it well a few nights ago) but of course the engine kept running, and I kept blissfully working away with the hoe. I am guessing it ran that way for 30-40 minutes. Easily enough time to fry electrical components.

I've spent an hour doing searches for "FLU419 battery disconnected while running" without much luck. I recall reading somewhere (here?, Benzworld?) "don't turn off your ignition and/or battery disconnect while running or you will burn out your xxxxx!" I can't find those posts now.

What is the most likely candidate for electrical item which I have destroyed. There was no obvious odor, etc. With the batteries hooked up, all electricals work as normal, reads 24v, but will not start. Tonight's bedtime reading will be the "will not start" troubleshooting chain in the TM.

Nuts, just when I had gotten a good day of work going.

 

[The FLU farm]

For sale: Slightly used SEE fuel troubleshooting setup. Possible trade for 2-inch widened wheel that doesn't leak, a functional left door latch, 50 gallons of AW 32, or something similar.

Well, that's what I intended to post, but once again I can relate, patrol578. As soon as I had removed the electric fuel pump from the system, and filled the tank, the parts SEE started to run crappy again.

Add to that a surprisingly large number of other things that went wrong (mostly all minor, thankfully), and I won't sleep as well as last night. Darn it.

Oh, and I don't remember what was supposed to take offense when the engine is running without the electrical on, either. My guess was the alternator, but as I recall, that wasn't it. I really can't think of anything else that could get honked off.

 

[patrol578]

Oh, and I don't remember what was supposed to take offense when the engine is running without the electrical on, either. My guess was the alternator, but as I recall, that wasn't it. I really can't think of anything else that could get honked off.

Results from the automotive and boat world say "you may burn out the diodes in your alternator." But I seem to remember the correct answer for an unimog/FLU was alternator relay, voltage regulator, or somesuch.

Still searching.

 

[The FLU farm]

I just don't understand how any of those things would keep it from starting. Does it act like a bad connection when you hit the start button? If not, it could be that darn switch at the clutch.

 

[patrol578]

It does absolutely nothing when I hit the start button. No starter solenoid clicking, no voltage dip. It's like I'm not even pressing the button. It certainly could be the clutch switch...but I don't think I will touch that until I get to it in the troubleshooting instructions.

 

[The FLU farm]

Okay, my usual suspects are the master switch and the clutch interlock. I'm guessing clutch in your case. And you should touch it. Literally.
There has been times when "slamming" the clutch pedal down won't do it and I had to push it in by hand.

 

[General Hood]

I can call and cheer you on. Repeatedly. Think it'd help?
Besides, what fun would life be without continuity?

Thanks for the call, never got a chance to get the back wheels off the ground to see what's going on. Will give it a try tomorrow

 

[General Hood]

It does absolutely nothing when I hit the start button. No starter solenoid clicking, no voltage dip. It's like I'm not even pressing the button. It certainly could be the clutch switch...but I don't think I will touch that until I get to it in the troubleshooting instructions.

Have you tried starting it with a screwdriver across the starter solenoid posts? I had to start SEE #2 that way until I got the rat chew wiring back in order

 

[patrol578]

Not yet General Hood. I may try that today. The last time I did that was when diagnosing a bad starter. The starter ended up being seized, so shorting it would not have helped anyway. I killed a battery in the process. Will need to be more careful this time.

 

[911joeblow]

When everything is working you will hear the solenoid click when you have the master and key on and push in the clutch switch. It is pretty hard to hear if it is noisy so sometimes pushing it with your hand might be better. No click and the starting will not work.

 

[The FLU farm]

Well, that was easy. At least I'd like to think that having the ferrule installed correctly will help prevent air leaks.

The idiot that installed it backwards yesterday will be punished accordingly.

 

[Bikers33]

Not yet General Hood. I may try that today. The last time I did that was when diagnosing a bad starter. The starter ended up being seized, so shorting it would not have helped anyway. I killed a battery in the process. Will need to be more careful this time.

Check the top two relays (K1 and K2). Check wire 213 for 24volts with start button and clutch pushed in. 213 is on the solenoid terminal closest to the block. It sounds like the solenoid could be fubar.

 

[Foxyjosh]

Looks like I'm going to be pulling out the transmission. Any tips or tricks not covered in the manual?

I see bolts not tightened or missing, gaskets missing or broken. I'm going to assume that the mechanic working for Uncle Sam had no idea what they were doing. So, I'm taking this thing out and hoping there is nothing catastrophically wrong with it.

Can anyone recommend a service shop that specializes in these transmissions just in case?

 

[patrol578]

Thanks to everyone for the help. Have not had my hands on the SEE today. I will keep you posted.

Looks like I'm going to be pulling out the transmission.

Ok, I don't feel so bad now. Good luck Foxyjosh!