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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

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All michelins on Mogs #1&2 are 4410 lbs single at 50PSI. Mog #3 has Michelins at 4400lbs single at 50 psi.
Apparently the military wasn't overly concerned with overloading the tires either, then. But at least a 4,400-lb. capacity at 40 (out of 50) psi is better than my 4,200-lb. tires at 40 psi out of 80.
 

The FLU farm

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The other day I noticed a SEE at GP had an emergency fan belt. Odd, I thought, but as of today I fully understand why it was there.
Decided to replace the too-long fan belt on the SHEE today, and quickly realized that it's getting all new belts, and I'll start carrying an emergency belt in the FLUs.
Those who have had the pleasure already know what a pain it is t change them, to the rest of you I would strongly advice to make sure the belts are good. It would be nearly impossible to replace them in the field, I think, unless you carry quite a few tools.
In retrospect, removing the radiator and fan would've probably helped a lot, but I wasn't set up for a coolant change - which the SHEE could use.

Now the new belts are on, tightening them will be tomorrow's fun and games. It's the power steering pump adjustment that is the complete b***h. It took me some 20 minutes just to figure out where that adjustment is, and the actual (largely blind) wrenching was not a speedy process, either. It never is when the wrong (open) end of a wrench has to be used. And it hasn't helped that my back hurts like a mother.

One tool that was instrumental in getting the P/S belt on, and which isn't pictured, was a GearWrench indexable pry bar. The hoses prevent the pump from moving easily.
AgainDSCN0415[1].jpgDSCN0417[1].jpg, unless you carry most of the tools in the photo, and spare belts, or an emergency belt, please make sure the belts are good before heading out.
 

General Hood

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The other day I noticed a SEE at GP had an emergency fan belt. Odd, I thought, but as of today I fully understand why it was there.
Decided to replace the too-long fan belt on the SHEE today, and quickly realized that it's getting all new belts, and I'll start carrying an emergency belt in the FLUs.
Those who have had the pleasure already know what a pain it is t change them, to the rest of you I would strongly advice to make sure the belts are good. It would be nearly impossible to replace them in the field, I think, unless you carry quite a few tools.
In retrospect, removing the radiator and fan would've probably helped a lot, but I wasn't set up for a coolant change - which the SHEE could use.

Now the new belts are on, tightening them will be tomorrow's fun and games. It's the power steering pump adjustment that is the complete b***h. It took me some 20 minutes just to figure out where that adjustment is, and the actual (largely blind) wrenching was not a speedy process, either. It never is when the wrong (open) end of a wrench has to be used. And it hasn't helped that my back hurts like a mother.

One tool that was instrumental in getting the P/S belt on, and which isn't pictured, was a GearWrench indexable pry bar. The hoses prevent the pump from moving easily.
AgainView attachment 681892View attachment 681893, unless you carry most of the tools in the photo, and spare belts, or an emergency belt, please make sure the belts are good before heading out.
Ugh, I checked mine a while back and they looked good, but now you have me thinking I should double check. I see no blood stains on the pavement so assume you are good to fight another day
 

The FLU farm

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Ugh, I checked mine a while back and they looked good, but now you have me thinking I should double check. I see no blood stains on the pavement so assume you are good to fight another day
Nah, only three minor leaks (blood), which is surprisingly few for a task like this. Actually, the main bleeder was because of me falling off the loader, which was due to my back not cooperating.
But since your SEE suffers from fuel/rust issues and doesn't really run, I wouldn't worry about the V-belts quite yet.
 

General Hood

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Nah, only three minor leaks (blood), which is surprisingly few for a task like this. Actually, the main bleeder was because of me falling off the loader, which was due to my back not cooperating.
But since your SEE suffers from fuel/rust issues and doesn't really run, I wouldn't worry about the V-belts quite yet.
Belts are now listed on page 36 section C of my FLU to do list
 

Speedwoble

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Apparently the military wasn't overly concerned with overloading the tires either, then. But at least a 4,400-lb. capacity at 40 (out of 50) psi is better than my 4,200-lb. tires at 40 psi out of 80.
Further confusing me is that a certain auction site has new 12.5R20 XL's listed with a load capacity of 8820 lbs. These have a sidewall stamp in the photos of 132G, corresponding to 2000kg and 56 mph, so maybe that seller is just full of BS. A Michelin brochure posted on benzworld lists the XZL tires as 4000kg@ 50psi, but those are XZL's, not XL's.
 

The FLU farm

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Further confusing me is that a certain auction site has new 12.5R20 XL's listed with a load capacity of 8820 lbs.
Worse yet, something tells me that those tires may not have ever been used, but that's a whole different story from them actually being new.
Old tires (okay, old radials) can be quite sketchy, and I've often wondered about the liability aspect when people (or in this case, a business) peddle what could be rather old tires.
 

The FLU farm

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Okay, now that the new belts are tightened correctly and I know for a fact that they fit good, it is appropriate to share what numbers I used.DSCN0418[1].jpg

Please note that the fan/alternator belt is not the recommended size. I did a fair amount of research before starting this "belt-fight" (must've suspected that it would be a bit of a battle) and came across info that suggested using this particular size instead. I'm glad I did. It puts the bolt in the center of the adjustment travel, yet allows the belt to be installed over the pulley with relative ease.
 

rtrask

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Perfect timing, I was just putting together a NAPA order, and have been trying to sort out the belts based on NSN number and compatible part numbers. 2 of these are about 7mm longer, and all are solid rather than notched. All of them are currently availabe at my local NAPA so I am going with what you say works.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

peakbagger

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I couldn't resist making the 3000th post on this thread, I think I was here for the first one! Bummer someone beat me to it!

Thanks for going to the trouble to size the belts. I going through that on my 1300L and even using official Mercedes manuals, the actual listed belts aren't the ones on the engine. You haven't seen weird belt setup until you have seen a 1300L fan belt drive. The fan is off to the side of the engine so its fed via one belt that runs a pulley on the end of an idler shaft that then drives another belt that drives the fan. Its setup so if you are deep water fording that the belt is removed to keep the fan from turning.

I used to use those powertwist belts at work, they aren't just for emergencies, I had some running for months and years. The only down side it they are more dangerous for someone getting caught by them.
 

The FLU farm

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Thanks for going to the trouble to size the belts.
That was no trouble. What troubles me is that I didn't have the correct sizes on hand, at least not new ones. And I wasn't about to spend hours installing used belts.
Also troubling me is that someone used two SAE bolts (instead of 12 mm) to fasten the skid plate. No big deal to run a tap through the captured nuts and fix that issue - except that I can't find three (one of the correct bolts was boogered) bolts of the correct length.
With all the crap I have, it really bugs me when I end up having to buy stuff.

Of course, it bugs me even more when I find a part not long after having bought one.

EDIT: So the plot thickens. Three of the four captive nuts were standard thread, one's metric.
Did Red River tap three of them out to 1/2", then use a 12mm bolt in one of the three?
Using a tap, those three nuts are now made good again, and there's one lone 12mm holding the skid plate. It won't be a problem for me as I always start fasteners by hand, and keep track of where they came from, but it is kinda redneck.
Either way, the skid plate will remain off until the belts definitely won't need any adjustments - and my back allows me to reinstall it.
 
Last edited:

Another Ahab

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With all the crap I have, it really bugs me when I end up having to buy stuff.

Of course, it bugs me even more when I find a part not long after having bought one.
The project gods are never happy until they have had their laugh.

It is always at our expense. That's the way it is.

I wasn't there, but apparently that is the way the deal was cut.


:shrugs::naner:
 

The FLU farm

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I've thought about running two 12 Volt fans instead of the harder to find 24 Volt versions, and apparently the military also thought that it wouldDSCN0422[1].jpg
be a good idea for cooling FLU hydraulics.

Of course, the downside is that if one fan goes bad, both will stop working.
 

General Hood

Member
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I've thought about running two 12 Volt fans instead of the harder to find 24 Volt versions, and apparently the military also thought that it wouldView attachment 682115
be a good idea for cooling FLU hydraulics.

Of course, the downside is that if one fan goes bad, both will stop working.
I thought both my fans were bad on SEE #2, but ran direct wires to the battery and they operated, so I'm looking at yet another re-wire :-x
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I thought both my fans were bad on SEE #2, but ran direct wires to the battery and they operated, so I'm looking at yet another re-wire :-x
It'll be an easy fix - if you have power to the temp sensor. If not, I hope you kept one of those nice wiring charts for yourself...oh, wait, those circuits aren't on there, are they?
 
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