FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Another Ahab]

Or do you think I can remove them without to much problem over time? And where's the best place to buy these 24v dash bulbs? Ok that was more than one quick question.

Hey, who's counting?!

 

[The FLU farm]

And where's the best place to buy these 24v dash bulbs?

I think all my gauges are illuminated. Gotta check next time we have an eclipse.
Where to buy bulbs? If it were me, I'd find out what type (number) they are, then get them, most likely, from Amazon. Or Napa if it's urgent.

 

[alpine44]

If you can only find 12V bulbs, put every two in series on a 24v system.

 

[peakbagger]

As part of my long ago electrical diagnosis I had to tear apart the multifunction gauge. I lucked out an all my bulbs were good but they are an oddball. I would bet its a ultimately a Bosch or VDO part number as they build most of the European gauges. I would suggest Scott at EI for a start. I have seen similar clusters used on the entire 406 series with small variations so I don't think the bulbs are SEE specific. Each bulb has a colored tube on it to redirect the light to the back of the front plate. My tubes were all brittle and most broke. I had some milky white plastic tubing with the same ID and used short lengths of it to replace them. There is bit of glow behind all the gauges due to some light leakage but considering I will only rarely run it at night it works for me.

 

[lurkMcGurk]

Began working on a "Texarkana custom crimped pipe" earlier, got out the recip saw and realized the tire that made me crossfit the other day was nearby.


Per the Michelin 12.5 r 20 dissection. Had a minute today so here you go. The damage from the "Spear Rock".

the shear power of my hand tearing back the rubber!
and the sneaker pushing down on it so I can reciprocating Saw that bad boy
Didn't see a whole lot of metal in there just some strands, but did manage to cut my hand so I'm sure there is some metal. Not like a tractor trailer that looses a tire tread (Road Gator) on the highway and you see all the metal mesh inside. Would have cut further but its a PITA

Also began working on a "Texarkana custom crimped pipe" earlier and saw my oil temp and oil pressure gauge top out and stay there immediately on start up. Fluids appear normal and I only had it running a minute. quick manual consult and no ideas yet. All worked fine a few days ago. Hmmmmmmmm

 

[The FLU farm]

Per the Michelin 12.5 r 20 dissection. Had a minute today so here you go. The damage from the "Spear Rock".

Thanks for the pics. Is there any way you can post them with a higher resolution? I have a hard time seeing what is (or in this case isn't?) in there.

Bad connections can make the gauges do funny things - good luck finding out just where, though. Although, the oil pressure usually does peg the gauge until the oil gets warm.

 

[alpine44]

Could someone please get me the height of the FLU419 pintle hitch over ground; I am working on a trailer 500 miles away from my FLU419? Thanks.

 

[rtrask]

Could someone please get me the height of the FLU419 pintle hitch over ground; I am working on a trailer 500 miles away from my FLU419? Thanks.

I went out to measure mine, but it is in 3pt stance, so only about a foot off the ground.

Given that the army likes to keep everything the same as much as possible I am pretty sure it is the same as on duece and a half truck which is 31".

 

[farmertan]

Mine is at 32 to center of ring but it's got new pista's on rear and sitting on jack stands on front just high enough to get tires off (replacing wheel seals) so i'd say closer to 33 with front down on new tires.

 

[farmertan]

Ok did some research on the dash bulbs, the original bulb is a k15617 t3 2w ba9s hard to find and expensive when you do 5.00 apiece+, I ordered 3797's box of 10 for 7.58. 3797's are a t2 (2.75) instead of t3 (3.25) that means the glass bulb is shorter should only be a problem if i put the little rubbers back on looks like they would cover most of the glass part. I will let you all know if this is a complete fail when they get here.

 

[The FLU farm]

Could someone please get me the height of the FLU419 pintle hitch over ground; I am working on a trailer 500 miles away from my FLU419? Thanks.

Disregarding two at 31 inches (low tires, uneven ground) it looks like you should set up your trailer for 32 inches.
Then again, with a little tongue weight it may end up at 30 or 31, so maybe that'd be a better goal.

 

[alpine44]

Thanks everyone for the numbers on the hitch height.
I'll go with 33" since I plan on running taller 14.5R20 tires.

 

[farmertan]

Finished installing drivers side front wheel seal and got to thinking about the brake pad wear wires, I will never in two life times wear out the pads. It's not like the other mogs that go on 100 mile camping trips, has anyone removed there wires and if so does it cause a problem with indicator light on dash that also is for the low brake fluid and parking brake? For the little pin that slides into the pad to touch the rotor and send a signal to lamp #3 would take 10k plus miles in heavy start stop traffic. Also the wires could get ripped off by branches in the woods. I also have corrosion at the plug on the torsion tube they might not work anyways.

 

[rtrask]

I was afraid that might be the case.
By the way, did you also get to enjoy having the bolt turn when trying to move only the locking nut? That was the highlight, I think.
Ended up putting long-nose Vice Grips on the bolt's threads, on the left side, to enable turning the locking nut. That was cruel to the threads, but beats trying to get two wrenches (and two hands) in there.

I don't know what you guys are complaining about. It is probably the easiest of the three to adjust it in and out.


You don't even have to lay down or anything.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[The FLU farm]

Finished installing drivers side front wheel seal and got to thinking about the brake pad wear wires, I will never in two life times wear out the pads. It's not like the other mogs that go on 100 mile camping trips, has anyone removed there wires and if so does it cause a problem with indicator light on dash that also is for the low brake fluid and parking brake? For the little pin that slides into the pad to touch the rotor and send a signal to lamp #3 would take 10k plus miles in heavy start stop traffic. Also the wires could get ripped off by branches in the woods. I also have corrosion at the plug on the torsion tube they might not work anyways.

I haven't got around to get rid of them, and nature may beat me to it. Since I never have the indicator lights on, it wouldn't matter to me if it did trigger a fault light.
Like you, I'll never wear the pads out, and if somehow I did and didn't notice, I'd have no business driving a SEE...or anything else, for that matter.

 

[The FLU farm]

I don't know what you guys are complaining about. It is probably the easiest of the three to adjust it in and out. You don't even have to lay down or anything.

Okay Ron, next time I'll just tilt the cab instead of laying down. Not!
And I think the alternator belt is the easiest to adjust no matter what...except if you tilt the cab. Then that adjuster could be hard to reach.

 

[rtrask]

Tilting the cab is not too hard, but not for the faint of heart. I don't think I would do it just to put on the V belts. There is a lot of work that I need to do replacing hoses and electrical lines. The oil pressure sending unit, going to pull the starter and have it gone through. And a lot of electrical issues that have not been diagnosed yet.

One thing that worked well was to use a ratcheting pole that I bought at home depot.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Ca...75035&wl11=online&wl12=17043485&wl13=&veh=sem

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[alpine44]

One thing that worked well was to use a ratcheting pole that I bought at home depot.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Ca...75035&wl11=online&wl12=17043485&wl13=&veh=sem
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Were you able to tilt the cab just with the chain/strap in the front and the ratcheting pole?

 

[rtrask]

Were you able to tilt the cab just with the chain/strap in the front and the ratcheting pole?

I ran a come-along over the roll bar and winched it up to get enough room for the ratcheting pole. The strap was added afterward as an additional safety measure. I did not try and lift with the ratchet strap / chain at all. Needed a sky hook, but I keep it with my board stretcher, and haven't been able to find either one lately.

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[The FLU farm]

Needed a sky hook, but I keep it with my board stretcher, and haven't been able to find either one lately.

So I'm not the only one who has a need for a crane, then. I'm still surprised at how often the HMMH is useful, even though I have built a "sky hook" for the tractor.
Anyway, while the cab's up, have you considered replacing the factory 4WD/locker switch with three separate ones? I'd love to have individual control over the three separate functions that are now combined. Being able to lock the rear axle only, for example, without having to be in 4WD would be helpful, I think.
Likewise, having 4WD with the rear locker only would make for better turning and less tearing up of the ground and tires.
Well, at least I think it would work well on a FLU, too, having enjoyed the ability to engage/disengage what I want, in the combination I want, on other four wheels drives over the years.