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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

FarmMOG

Member
42
1
8
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
Does anyone have experience adding weather stripping to the doors? It looks like any general door weather stripping will work to fill the gap in the door jam. I thought having the weather stripping would help keep the worm air inside the cab and the diesel exhaust outside. Thanks.
I just replaced a good amount of weather stripping around the engine cover. I bought some very dense material used for metal buildings and then cut to size and attached with 3M yellow adhesive (also known as gorilla snot). This is working very well, as the old stuff was completely missing in a few areas around the exhaust. I would recommend that whatever you use it, make sure it is durable and the surface is cleaned very good before gluing.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
That one looks CLEAN! You need to drive through some wooded areas and get some patina on it.
Oh, and is it legal not to have a license plate light there? I thought that was a cop favorite for pulling people over.
 

LZahariev

Member
40
0
6
Location
Chicago, IL
You are right. The plate light is a must, I guess my road excursions will have to be during the day for now. I guess the trip to the local pub on Friday night will have to wait.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
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113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Hmm. Parking outside the pub may not put you on the most favorable list with the law.
I'll just keep driving without any plates, or even slow moving vehicle triangles. How could they prove it was me?!?
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
It might be worth giving Von Mog's a call regarding weather stripping. He does high end restorations of this Mog series and I expect he has already experimented with this. I don't know how effective it will be given the lack of a full fire wall. There is pretty much a direct shot between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment under the dash. I think in order to keep the heat in there is probably a need to install some insulation on the cab sheet metal including the door interiors.
 

monstermog

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
89
3
8
Location
Billings, MT
Evening you all. Have had a wonderful time getting this SEE up and running again. Fluids, filters, air system with new tank, complete fuel system rebuild except IP, now onto the coolant side. So sad the government didn't take good care of these machines.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I don't know how effective it will be given the lack of a full fire wall. There is pretty much a direct shot between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment under the dash. I think in order to keep the heat in there is probably a need to install some insulation on the cab sheet metal including the door interiors.
With the goal being a warm cab, or at least I think that's the goal, having a "porous firewall" should be a good thing.
I get a fair amount of warmth from the engine compartment and floor, and in the cooler months that's nice, I think. If it wasn't for the noise, having the doghouse opened up a bit should be great on those 0 or below mornings.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Evening you all. Have had a wonderful time getting this SEE up and running again. Fluids, filters, air system with new tank, complete fuel system rebuild except IP, now onto the coolant side. So sad the government didn't take good care of these machines.
Congratulations on your progress!
Although, had the government taken care of its machinery, I would've learned much less. And probably not been able to afford a SEE in the first place.
 

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
I dug into my power steering system over the weekend. The power steering fluid had almost all leaked out. I hope that a new supply line hose and clamps will solve that. I have a few questions. First are the any recommendations on what power steering fluid to use? Second does any one know what the line that runs from the banjo fitting on the lid of the power steering fluid resevoir to a port just above the hour meter is for / what purpose it serves? Finally the filter was missing from the power steering fluid reservoir. I found what I think is a replacement on EI it does not say it is for the FLU419, but I think the part numbers a match. Has any of you bought one and did it fit? I assume there is no reason to leave it off?
 
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The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I should look into what's ailing the Summer SEE's P/S (other than a loose belt), and if the fluid ends up being replaced I'll do like the military and use the same stuff as elsewhere. In my case that's AW-32 hydraulic fluid, since it's a hydraulic system.
 

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
I should look into what's ailing the Summer SEE's P/S (other than a loose belt), and if the fluid ends up being replaced I'll do like the military and use the same stuff as elsewhere. In my case that's AW-32 hydraulic fluid, since it's a hydraulic system.
I certainly have plenty of that, and the thought crossed my mind.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
It's been a bit busy and mostly SEE usageHMMH .jpg, but earlier this week the HMMH came in handy, again. Unloaded the parts for a small building off of a tractor trailer.
 

monstermog

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
89
3
8
Location
Billings, MT
Well its a happy day. I already mentioned the fuel system is rejuvenated....I capped it off with a new fuel sender....cleaned out the tank 2xs. In the end a fuel lift pump was the issue. Fast forward...4wd is working fine...instead of replacing the switch like I did...spray some LPS1 in the small hole...it should free up. But it works fine too. Also...refurbished the hi/low function of the teanny...cause was a seized piston. P.s...number/mark all your bolts. So the truck does a good clip now...have to thank EI for the parts. Matt at Belmetric for his expertise in the MM world of plastic hosing and fittings and his expert troubleshooting help over the phone. There are still some gremlins left to work out but in time. Thanks again. The headlight conversion to Hella Plus is good.

To do...

Knorr alcohol tank rebuild it leaks
L-key switch is being finicky
3 point torsional bars need straightened
Theres 1 loader cylinder and 2 cylinders seeping.
Mog looks way better without the 400lb lid. Lol
***Anyway to get all 4-lights to wor when driving...?***
Muffler pipe needs fixing...typical
Axle air lockers need draining and oil
Portals drained and refilled

And it goes on...but the list is shorter now....lol
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
3 point torsional bars need straightened
If you mean the two rods that go to the rear axle, usually bent by forklifiting, I'd make straightening them a priority.
Not that I know how much leeway there is in the torque tube system, but it probably isn't all that much, or those rods wouldn't have relatively fine toothed serrations in the transmission end. I don't think they're only there for side to side adjustment.

Somewhere, many, many pages back, are photos of when I straightened a pair with a cheap HF tubing bender. It was perfect for that job.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I will regret this. I know I will.
Today a SEE left, heading for SoCal. It was the cleanest and (in most ways) nicest one I've seen.
Oh well, at least it was a nice forum member who bought it, so hopefully we'll get to see photos of it posted here in the future.DSCN1645[1].jpg
 
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