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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

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FarmMOG

Member
42
1
8
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
I replaced the two work lights in the back with LEDs, and they are at least 100 times brighter. I have replaced one of the front aux headlights with a LED unit, and it is literally night and day difference. Just waiting for the other LED to arrive so I can install it as well. Northern Tool has had some clearance sales lately with several different models of LED lights, so I bought a few packages of two LED lights to install around the SEE to help with night visibility. I am thinking about using the NVG driving lights circuit to connect these extra lights, as it is already wired up and not used. The only change I want to make is use a 24V semi-truck headlight switch to replace the military control box, and then add a few additional switches to control the extra LEDs. One thought I had was to run two wires from a switch in the cab to the rear auxiliary lights. This would allow me to turn them on from inside the cab as well as the outside switch, while using the existing power source. The only problem is I have more projects outside of the SEE and don't really have any time to do anything with it for a while.
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

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FarmMOG, you do know that those LEDs Northern sells ca be had at Amazon for less than half the price, right? Last time I bought a few they were about $8 a piece.
Just make sure you get the 24, 48, or ideally 72 Volt, versions. Also, they come in 30 and 60 degree models.

I would also like to get rid of the stock light switch, but there's no need for a 24 Volt Class 8 light switch. There's only half the amperage in a 24 Volt system so a basic 12 Volt version is more than enough.
 
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peakbagger

Well-known member
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Location
northern nh
I have one of the MRAP Eyecon kits being shipped as we speak for a lighting upgrade on my 1300L. I could not resist the remote control spotlights to replace my flashing blue ambulance lights that had to taken off to get it road legal ;) I don't need all the lights in the kit for the 1300L and expect I will end up with some of spare lights and parts. I have never messed with HIDs but have read they need a local ballast to strike the high voltage arc and then cut down the voltage once the arc is struck. The Eyecon system is set up to be modular with each lighting module operating independently so I am hoping that each light bar has a separate ballast. If so there is chance I will end up with some 24 volt bright lights for the SEE. The Eyecon system is dual mode, both HID and infrared so I expect I will end up with lot of IR parts. There is installation manual in the download section but no wiring diagram so I expect I will get to go back into "wire tracing mode"that I got to practice with during the Rat Eaten Wiring Harness summer.
 
rtrask

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
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Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Power Steering / Broken fitting

Well I think I found the issue with the power steering fluid leak. Someone over torqued the fitting and when I tried to remove it the fitting twisted off in the power steering pump.

Screenshot from 2017-12-21 10-33-49.png

The fitting that broke off is labeled 23 in the above diagram. Parts manual says it is:
23 PFOZZ 4730-01-242-2856 D9596 709 332 FITTING........................................................... 1

NSN info has an alternate part number of 004 997 22 72.

it just connects the 22MM / 7/8" hose from the power steering reservoir to the pump as you can see in the diagram, so maybe I don't need an exact match.

Any suggestions?
 
Migginsbros

Migginsbros

Well-known member
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6,703
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Location
Berlin-Germany
rtrask said:
Well I think I found the issue with the power steering fluid leak. Someone over torqued the fitting and when I tried to remove it the fitting twisted off in the power steering pump.

View attachment 713023

The fitting that broke off is labeled 23 in the above diagram. Parts manual says it is:
23 PFOZZ 4730-01-242-2856 D9596 709 332 FITTING........................................................... 1

NSN info has an alternate part number of 004 997 22 72.

it just connects the 22MM / 7/8" hose from the power steering reservoir to the pump as you can see in the diagram, so maybe I don't need an exact match.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Your no. is a Mercedes partno. A 004 997 22 72 The part named Stutzen/Fitting and is still available. Find it in EPC and called dealer. Will be delivered in two days.
Cost about 25 Euro
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I think I've seen one. Hopefully I saved it in some file, on some stick.
Was thinking about finding the restrictor in the backhoe deploy circuit again this morning, and a schematic would be helpful for that. Not that that particular circuit could be very extensive.
 
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Pinsandpitons

Active member
162
55
28
Location
Central Washington
Exactly! That was one of the many things I wanted to trace. That and figure out if there's some reason the front loader is so slow and weak, if a larger displacement gear pump or adjustment of some orifice or valve is possible. If I'm being honest with myself, it's really just procrastination until the weather warms up and I can deal with the air system more effectively.
While I'm venting, have you ever noticed a lag in oil pressure when first starting up? It seems to take five or 10 seconds for the oil pressure to build up. During which time the engine definitely doesn't sound smooth. Clogged pick up?
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
I think the restrictor is by or on the valves by the lever. Never did look for it while having the cover off to fix the switches.
Having one weak loader, I know why you'd like to fix that issue. Mine's probably better than yours, but it's not good.
Big time delay in oil pressure showing, yes. Can't say that the engine sounds like it's lacking pressure, but I always keep the rpm as low as humanly possible until the gauge shows full pressure. On the Winter SEE that means no raising the rpm to make the charging kick on.
 
F

FarmMOG

Member
42
1
8
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
The FLU farm said:
FarmMOG, you do know that those LEDs Northern sells ca be had at Amazon for less than half the price, right? Last time I bought a few they were about $8 a piece.
Just make sure you get the 24, 48, or ideally 72 Volt, versions. Also, they come in 30 and 60 degree models.

I would also like to get rid of the stock light switch, but there's no need for a 24 Volt Class 8 light switch. There's only half the amperage in a 24 Volt system so a basic 12 Volt version is more than enough.
Click to expand...
You are definitely correct about the lights being expensive at retail price, but I have always been able to get them much cheaper. I always have the $20 off $100 coupon, usually get the extra giftcard, and so far have bought everyone on a very reduced clearance price. Taking your time and watching the sales has made all the difference in getting good deals. If you are sure that I don't need a 24V switch for dimming the dash lights, I will try to find a suitable 12V with dimming feature.

I didn't have time this trip to get with the hydraulics shop, so it will have to be next year when I make it back over to work on it. Always something to do on it. Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas!
 
P

peakbagger

Well-known member
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Location
northern nh
Cool video, nice to see some background on C&C Equipment.

They were definitely at a disadvantage using a 419 chassis instead of a 406. The SEE 419 chassis has a lot of extra reinforcing to support the backhoe that reduces the articulation.

It would be interesting to see them run a similar vintage Case or Cat crawler loader through the same paces and see where they end up at the endo of the trip.
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
peakbagger said:
They were definitely at a disadvantage using a 419 chassis instead of a 406. The SEE 419 chassis has a lot of extra reinforcing to support the backhoe that reduces the articulation.
Click to expand...
I think the video is proof that buying a SEE to get an affordable low mileage Unimog is not necessarily the way to go.

When Fred asked what I thought would be a fair price for that SEE, I thought he wanted a SEE. When I realized that he'd strip it of the useful bits, I offered to buy the loader and backhoe. We never did discuss what he'd end up doing to it, or use it for.
Had I known, I would've done my best to talk him out of ruining a SEE.

Sure enough, he found out that without its implements and without any other modifications, a SEE isn't very good at anything.
 
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