FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Foxyjosh]

I'm ready to show off my Mog. Pictures coming soon!

Here it is! Finally moving dirt at a local show! Unfortunately one of the hydraulic seals broke so I will need to repair one of the cylinders.

 

[AugustRising]

419 SEE
Newport VT
USA
Hey all looking to find flow rate for reel hydraulics, trying to get tow behind brush hog for my fields, need that little tidbit of info to SEE if I can make something work. Thanks in advance

 

[The FLU farm]

August, I hate to tell you, but the reel is running off the front pump as I recall, which means that your brush hog better not be larger than a one or two foot diameter unit.
But since you're going to run a rear mounted implement anyway, why not use the rear hydraulics instead?

And sorry, but I don't remember the specs for the front or rear circuits now. I think it's 26 gpm for the rear, but don't quote me on that. If you go back in this thread it's been mentioned numerous times, though.

 

[alpine44]

FluFarm remembered correctly. Rear pump is 26gpm@2450psi and the tool circuit is fed by the front pump, which delivers 8gpm@2450psi (from TM 5-2420-224-20-1 UNIT MAINTENANCE MANUAL)

 

[alpine44]

Hydraulic orifices for backhoe stowing and deployment.

I finally found these buggers. They are in the angle fittings on the hydraulic cylinder. Original size is .031". I opened them up to 1/16" (smallest drill I had). Now, the backhoe deploys and stows within seconds rather than taking painful minutes. Need to be easy on the lever though, especially approaching the end stops.

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks, Alpine! Not where I had expected them to be, that's for sure.
Easy to get to, right? I really like that.

 

[alpine44]

Thanks, Alpine! Not where I had expected them to be, that's for sure.
Easy to get to, right? I really like that.

The angle fittings with the orifices are easy to remove after pushing out the pin on the cylinder rod end and tilting the whole cylinder to vertical. That position is also good for bleeding any air out of the circuit.

 

[Foxyjosh]

I just got a bad leak on one of my hydraulic cylinders for the backhoe. I bought a new kit to rebuild it from a company called Martin Fluid Power.
My question to the group is: does anyone have to rebuild the front hydraulic cylinders? If so, I'm planning on working with them to build a seal kit to rebuild all 4 cylinders unless somebody has a source for the kits. Since they don't leak I might not touch them but, if there is a need, and since I'm redoing the entire back anyways, I can measure and get seals made at Martin Fluid Power for the front.

 

[scottmandu]

I just got a bad leak on one of my hydraulic cylinders for the backhoe. I bought a new kit to rebuild it from a company called Martin Fluid Power.
My question to the group is: does anyone have to rebuild the front hydraulic cylinders? If so, I'm planning on working with them to build a seal kit to rebuild all 4 cylinders unless somebody has a source for the kits. Since they don't leak I might not touch them but, if there is a need, and since I'm redoing the entire back anyways, I can measure and get seals made at Martin Fluid Power for the front.

I had all my cylinders rebuilt, and the parts were common off the shelf pieces.

 

[Migginsbros]

We have one outrigger leaking. And yes... there are informations for spare parts/ seals in this forum thread. But if anyone has the knowlege and the time to create a list of
Seal kits, diameters needed, factory no. of differend sellers it would be a great help for every SEE owner.


https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-2018-August-VOTE-HERE!&p=2155944#post2155944

B.T.W. have a look at MV of the month

Migginsbros

 

[Mark1954]

Ladies and Gentlemen:

If this has been covered before, please be kind and direct me toward that resolution.
After a few year, my SEE has begun to act strangely - the engine fires and runs well for a few minutes, then acts like a filter is plugged or a governor has gone crazy, will surge and nearly stop, surge again and nearly stop. This may go on for 4-5 minutes sometimes, warm engine or cold, then it will run fine for some indeterminate time under load or at idle and then the cycle may or not repeat for a while. The position of the throttle does not seem to matter, and it does it under load or not, it does not seem to matter if it is parked on flat ground or running up and down embankments.

The fuel has stabil in it, but is less than a year old, but I assume that it would consistently not run well if it was a fuel or filter issue.

HELP!

Mark1954

 

[tennmogger]

Sounds like air ingress into the fuel supply. Sometimes you can spot a tiny bit of fuel that leaks out when the truck is off (no vacuum on the lines). Following the fuel supply path and loosening/tightening all fittings might find the problem.

If no luck with that step, it's possible to drain the tank, remove the screen off the pickup tube, plug a rubber hose over the pickup tube through the drain hole, and pressurize with low pressure air. Then use soapy water to find leaks.

 

[The FLU farm]

After three months of on and off progress, the FLUs can finally enjoy covered parking.

 

[Migginsbros]

After three months of on and off progress, the FLUs can finally View attachment 739937enjoy covered parking.

Great, looks good.

 

[Mark1954]

Sounds like air ingress into the fuel supply. Sometimes you can spot a tiny bit of fuel that leaks out when the truck is off (no vacuum on the lines). Following the fuel supply path and loosening/tightening all fittings might find the problem. If no luck with that step, it's possible to drain the tank, remove the screen off the pickup tube, plug a rubber hose over the pickup tube through the drain hole, and pressurize with low pressure air. Then use soapy water to find leaks.

Thanks, I'll check for fuel leaks / air intrusion. Would that explain the seemingly random nature of this problem and the periods where it works fine for a time?
It usually starts right up and runs for a while before the surge and (almost) dying issue, then magically fixes itself for a while, maybe 10-15 minutes, the acts up again. It's been frustrating to diagnose, so I really appreciate your ideas.

(I assumed this had a pressurized fuel system and didn't consider a vacuum issue, where all should I look for vacuum leaks that might cause this problem?)

 

[rtrask]

Looks like you have room to expand your collection.

 

[The FLU farm]

Thanks, I'll check for fuel leaks / air intrusion. Would that explain the seemingly random nature of this problem and the periods where it works fine for a time?
It usually starts right up and runs for a while before the surge and (almost) dying issue, then magically fixes itself for a while, maybe 10-15 minutes, the acts up again. It's been frustrating to diagnose, so I really appreciate your ideas.

(I assumed this had a pressurized fuel system and didn't consider a vacuum issue, where all should I look for vacuum leaks that might cause this problem?)

This sad subject has been covered quite extensively in the past few years in this thread. Heck, someone (me?) started a separate thread on it.
Basically, you need to eliminate all air leaks from the tank on up, and make sure the fuel can come up from the tank in the first place.

 

[The FLU farm]

Looks like you have room to expand your collection.

Thanks, but no thanks. I already sold one SEE, and probably should sell another FLU.

 

[peakbagger]

Ladies and Gentlemen:

If this has been covered before, please be kind and direct me toward that resolution.
After a few year, my SEE has begun to act strangely - the engine fires and runs well for a few minutes, then acts like a filter is plugged or a governor has gone crazy, will surge and nearly stop, surge again and nearly stop. This may go on for 4-5 minutes sometimes, warm engine or cold, then it will run fine for some indeterminate time under load or at idle and then the cycle may or not repeat for a while. The position of the throttle does not seem to matter, and it does it under load or not, it does not seem to matter if it is parked on flat ground or running up and down embankments.

The fuel has stabil in it, but is less than a year old, but I assume that it would consistently not run well if it was a fuel or filter issue.

HELP!

Mark1954

I have covered it in the past and others have also. My final diagnostic tool was a fuel tank from an outboard motor setup complete with a squeeze bulb to pressurize the fuel. I hooked the hose to the fuel line downsteam of the strainer, filled it with a couple of gallons of diesel and sat it on the passenger seat. This turns the fuel system into gravity feed system instead of a lift system. I would then prime the fuel filters and the truck would start right up and run fine. I then hooked the system back up normal and the truck would start sputtering and running out of fuel in a minute or so. I replaced some fuel line including the hidden and hard to get to fuel lines on the top of the tank. In the places were left the mercedes plastic tubing, I cut a short length of hose, slit it lengthwise and slipped it over the plastic. I then put a gear type hose clamp over the the rubber hose and cranked it tight. I also redid the return line hose from the injectors that tends to get damaged when the engine cover is removed and put back in place. I also replaced the gasket on the fuel strainer. I can not tell you exactly what fix was the one but I havent had to use the boat tank for two years. Note the plastic fuel line issue a known issue of mercedes cars of that error. They hold pressure and dont leak but put them under vacuum and they leak.

Good luck

 

[The FLU farm]

Forgot about the strainer gasket, peakbagger. That one was what kept me busy for a while, after having fixed everything else in the system.
These days the FLUs fire up instantly, and some even have a bit of pressure in the tanks after sitting for months. It does make all the time spent chasing fuel and air leaks feel worth it now.