FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[peakbagger]

Use a magnet to check the tube material. Steel will stick, stainless will not.

There are far simpler alcohol injectors out there. The biggest PITA is matching up the threads.

 

[The FLU farm]

Finally got the Pewag chains cut down and installed on the rear of the Winter SEE. It took a fair amount of time to figure out how much and where to shorten the inside.
Also, some time went to get the geometry for the tensioner somewhat right with the smaller diameter tire.

It was well worth the trouble, though, as a quick test revealed that the SEE could now back up a small ice covered slope in 2WD, barely spinning a tire. Better yet, with the wider tires on the Summer SEE there was no need to shorten the inside chain, so just removing one section made them fit fine.

 

[Migginsbros]

3 Weeks ago our SEE got a new buddy.
It´s a 1977 MAN Kat1 5ton mil glw with frame mounted winch in front of the rear axel.
More pics and informations about this MV see https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...diers-MV-of-the-month-2018-December-VOTE-HERE!

We wish you and your families a very merry christmas time.

Migginsbros

 

[rtrask]

Use a magnet to check the tube material. Steel will stick, stainless will not.

There are far simpler alcohol injectors out there. The biggest PITA is matching up the threads.

I had thought of checking with a magnet, but was unsure of the type of stainless that is used in the tubes. Some stainless is magnetic even if less so than steel. When I checked as you suggested there was a strong attraction so It is steel. In one of your earlier posts you had said you were going to use Nickel-Copper instead of Stainless. Did you? and would you recommend it? I have searched for 10 mm it is not plentiful, but our friends at BelMetric do sell a 25' roll for $100. I found another place that sells 6' for ~ 50.which should be long enough but I am undecided if twice the cost per foot is worth it.

I am going to be out of commission for working on my SEE until March because because of a unexpected commitment. I still have a lot to get done, but hope to have it together by late spring.

 

[peakbagger]

Yes I did use copper nickel. I bought a length from Fedhill.com (a great source for copper nickel). Stainless also works but its a real PITA to bend. In my experience it makes a less reliable flare type fitting.

I have a Bronco project that I just replaced all the brake lines with copper nickel.

 

[The FLU farm]

Is there any reason not to use a suitable hose instead?

 

[rtrask]

Is there any reason not to use a suitable hose instead?

Well when you are ignorant like me, better to follow someone else's lead, but I was wondering if I could use braided Stainless Steel hose of appropriate diameter and just do a good job attaching it to the frame. It would save $$. Flu farm what would you consider appropriate hose?

 

[The FLU farm]

I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think.

If/when that day comes for me, I'd likely use a hydraulic hose from Surplus Center and adapt the ends as needed.

 

[911joeblow]

I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think.

If/when that day comes for me, I'd likely use a hydraulic hose from Surplus Center and adapt the ends as needed.

Since we work with a lot of hose four our HMMWV and CUCV cooling system upgrade kits I might make these if there is enough demand?

 

[rtrask]

I'd go with a bit of safety margin on the pressure, as if the regulator would quit working. Almost any hose with the correct pressure rating would have good abrasion resistance, and as long as the ID is the same or larger than the stock tubing, it should work fine, I'd think.

If/when that day comes for me, I'd likely use a hydraulic hose from Surplus Center and adapt the ends as needed.

The fittings are one advantage of using Nickel-Copper, since I think I can reuse most if not all from 10 mm steel to 10 mm cunifer, and not have to match up disparate threads. At the worst case I would just need 10 mm compression sleeves.

I don't think the pressure requirements are that big of a deal since the manual says the compressor will output 105 PSI at 2600 RPM. I doubt that the compressor going down hill with the wind at its back it could make 150 PSI. 300 -250 PSI is pretty standard air hose rating and should provide a safe margin. All I would need to figure out is how to convert 1/2" NPT to M16x1.5.

 

[rtrask]

Unfortunately I didn't keep track of sizes, I just used a lot of them.

I have never seen metric tubing wrenches for the size fittings on some of the air system components. Maybe someone makes them that big but expect the cost would be significant. If I remember correctly the fittings are a combination of two possibly three thread systems. I don't think they were intended to have pipe dope or tape used on them. If I was to do so I would probably put a dab of neverseez.

The air pressure regulator may or may not have a screen on the air inlet that is integrated with the regulator It looks like some did and some didn't,. The valves over near the air tanks are just check valves. One of the air tanks is not needed unless you use the trailer brakes.

I assume you have seen reference to the student manual that is stored in the misc technical documents forum. That has some excellent drawings of the air system and how it works.

So far all I have used for wrenches are 27 mm for the BSPP lock / seal nuts and 19 mm on the flange nuts. Also a adjustable wrench on the elbow fittings.



The HF tube wrench set has a 19 mm / 22 mm combination, which only cost $14 for the 5 wrench set. a 3/4 wrench works well on 19 mm, especially with the stuff they call paint on the nut.

 

[Migginsbros]

Some times ago we clean the fuel tank. Now the SEE engine seems like he lost power. Therefore today we changed the fuel filters. Badly soiled.
For this engine we purchased the felt filters but we take the perforated surface type out. It works well with the new filters.
We need new internal gaskets for the hand bleeder pump and two off bleeder screws on the filter top for the future.
Someone knows which typ of filter he run?

 

[Migginsbros]

I will get a big collection of SEE TMs from another SS member. If you let me know I will share them with you. Happy new year to you're all. Migginsbros

 

[The FLU farm]

Great! TMs are knowledge, and knowledge is power.
And SEEs could use more power...or better yet, lower gearing.

Happy New Year everybody!

 

[The FLU farm]

Finally got enough snow to wake the snow blower up from its slumber.
If you think visibility can be bad in a SEE, try driving through a homemade blizzard.

 

[Migginsbros]

These SEE TMs are available. Some are large files. But perhaps I can send them separate to your email.

 

[Guyfang]

The TM's is the second picture are the most current available, with all changes.. The ones in the first picture are the old TM, or the newer TM's WITHOUT changes.

 

[rtrask]

These SEE TMs are available. Some are large files. But perhaps I can send them separate to your email. View attachment 752641View attachment 752642

Steelsoldiers has a spot where you can upload TMs, and that would be a better place for people to download them from, than you having to send multiple emails to everyone that wants a copy. I think the list you have is similar to what Guyfang posted in 2017, but that should be verified.

Probably just operator error on my part, but I have to find where they are by following a link that Peakbagger posted a long time ago. I can't seem to locate it under the TM section. It would be nice if the ss admins would create a subforum for unimog manuals under the Technical Manuals the way they have for other categories.

EDIT:

Here is the link to where the manuals can be downloaded from SS.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...cavator-flu-419-manuals-and-a-student-handout

I think They are the same as your second screen, except that you also have the wire diagram, which would be a nice addition if they could all be co located.

 

[rtrask]

I got my nice new aftermarket master cylinder from EI. My only concern is it says on the side to use dot 4 not dot 5 as the FLU is supposed to have. I assume I should ignore the warning to use dot 4 and stick with dot 5 but I thought I would ask.

 

[Guyfang]

Rtrask,

i looked all all over to try and find out if I uploaded those TM's. Could not find them, so sent them to Chris. Man, I am getting old.