FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[MajorMogger]

Any input on the qty of 10 FOPS bolts? I don't suppose it's a regular bolt I could get at tractor supply?

 

[glcaines]

Any input on the qty of 10 FOPS bolts? I don't suppose it's a regular bold I could get at tractor supply?

The 5-2420-224-24P-2 TM tells you what the bolts are. The size is M12, Fine thread and 40 mm long. I would use Grade 8 equivalent.

 

[The FLU farm]

I don't suppose it's a regular bold I could get at tractor supply?

Tractor Supply isn't best known for its quality hardware.

I'd get quality bolts from Master McCarr, or somewhere similar. Unless you only want the bolts to keep the FOPS from falling off.

 

[rtrask]

The guy who owned my FLU before me took the FOPS off and lost the bolts! Anyone know the bolt/nut specs (thread pitch, thread length, diameter, thread pitch, hardness etc)?

I tried to derive this from the NSN but was unsuccessful.

I think I replaced mine with just 3/4" standard pitch bolts, I used some nylon lock nuts. Not original equipment, but keeps the FOP place.

 

[rtrask]

Thank you for this input. So current conditions are icy precipitation etc. I am glad to know it's not like my brakes will lock up or something when it gets below freezing.


How do y'all confirm the system is working as expected after you put alcohol in it?

My brake lines are a mess, I don't have brakes other than the emergency brake. I don't get up enough speed that I really miss them.

 

[Knobby57]

1. Noob here .. got my first mog today and she is a peach . 300 ish miles and 55 hours on the engine meter . She need a lot of love .. melted wires from the alternator to the starter . No reverse . Rear air tank missing and various air lines disconnected . Broking windshield , drivers window , engine cover cracked , and oh yah the pass door fell off when I open see it … I’m in love . Any advice where to collect parts or info would be great . I read every post on this thread and new I was in for a treat . I did find the manuals and guide . I guess the fist thing is fiver out what happened to the wires and figure out how to get some air pressure .

 

[The FLU farm]

Congratulations!

Looks like 532 hours, though. Still, not fully broken in yet...enjoy.

 

[glcaines]

1. Noob here .. got my first mog today and she is a peach . 300 ish miles and 55 hours on the engine meter . She need a lot of love .. melted wires from the alternator to the starter . No reverse . Rear air tank missing and various air lines disconnected . Broking windshield , drivers window , engine cover cracked , and oh yah the pass door fell off when I open see it … I’m in love . Any advice where to collect parts or info would be great . I read every post on this thread and new I was in for a treat . I did find the manuals and guide . I guess the fist thing is fiver out what happened to the wires and figure out how to get some air pressure .

Did you get the FOPS and hood for it? Any of the hydraulic tools? The last digit on the engine time is not tenths it is full hours. Have fun with the new toy!

 

[Knobby57]

Did you get the FOPS and hood for it? Any of the hydraulic tools? The last digit on the engine time is not tenths it is full hours. Have fun with the new toy!

no chainsaw . Lots of bits in the box . Working on the wording now . I think I’m missing the locker air solenoid and know I’m missing the rear air tank I’m going to need to locate parts to get the air working .
Pulled the reverse shifter out the bushing is cracked but still I all the parts are there . It seams to throw all the way back to almost hit the cab when trying to engage

 

[The FLU farm]

Isn't that rear tank for trailer brakes? If so, you don't really need it.

 

[Knobby57]

no chainsaw . Lots of bits in the box . Working on the wording now . I think I’m missing the locker air solenoid and know I’m missing the rear air tank I’m going to need to locate parts to get the air working .
Pulled the reverse shifter out the bushing is cracked but still I all the parts are there . It seams to throw all the way back to almost hit the cab when trying to engage and yes got a good and a broken engine cover View attachment 858142
View attachment 858141

 

[Knobby57]

Isn't that rear tank for trailer brakes? If so, you don't really need it.

yes it does look like it for trailer brake only . I relay don’t need and never needed before so I’m ok without that , I need to get the 4 wheel drive lever hooked up and find a locker actuator . I found a open banjo fitting and have no idea where the actuator for the locker should go

 

[Speedwoble]

yes it does look like it for trailer brake only . I relay don’t need and never needed before so I’m ok without that , I need to get the 4 wheel drive lever hooked up and find a locker actuator . I found a open banjo fitting and have no idea where the actuator for the locker should go

Where are you in PA?
I am near Lancaster and have a spare engine cover and a FLU you can look at. I sent you a PM

 

[glcaines]

no chainsaw . Lots of bits in the box . Working on the wording now . I think I’m missing the locker air solenoid and know I’m missing the rear air tank I’m going to need to locate parts to get the air working .
Pulled the reverse shifter out the bushing is cracked but still I all the parts are there . It seams to throw all the way back to almost hit the cab when trying to engage

I've seen several Stanley hydraulic chainsaws for sale on Ebay in the past. You can get the bushing for the shifter from EI and they don't cost much. I would recommend going ahead and replacing the bushing for both shifters while you are in there and the bushings don't cost much. That plastic gets hard with age and cracks.

Stanley Chainsaw
Model: CS06120M
The bar is an Oregon Model 160ATSA195, P/N 09588, which isn't sold anymore. I replaced it with an Oregon 160PXDK095 after talking with an Oregon rep at the factory. Although you can use a longer bar, the chainsaw won't fit in the holder on the bottom of the tool cabinet with a bar longer than 16 inches. The gauge is 0.050. You will need a chain to match the 16 inch bar and 0.050 gauge. Stanley sells all of the parts for the chainsaw and other hydraulic tools. The hydraulic chainsaw is fantastic. It is very lightweight and really cuts well. Also, no fuel to mix and no oil for the chain. You do have to take the FLU with you wherever you are cutting wood, however.

 

[Knobby57]

Pass door fell off.. snapped hinge pins. Made a couple out of stainless . I’ll have to make a couple more for the slightly sagged drivers door

 

[glcaines]

I took my FLU419 on the highway this morning for a total of a ~60 mile drive round trip. Unfortunately, my left rear tire came in contact with a jagged piece of steel laying in the road. It tore a huge hole in the tire. I was going about 35 mph at the time. I was amazed at how stable the FLU was when the tire went. One thing nice about the FLU419 is that you really don't need a jack. I simply put the outriggers down and lifted the wheel off of the ground. What I didn't plan on was the difficulty in removing the spare wheel. The handle/screw that holds the spare in place was extremely difficult to remove. I borrowed a small sledge-hammer and some PB Blaster and still had to beat it around in an area difficult to reach with the hammer. It took over 45 minutes to get that piece removed so that I could remove the heavy wheel. I would recommend anyone with a FLU419 to go ahead and remove that bolt and clean up the threads and grease it before they have to do it on the side of the road in traffic. Mine had obviously never been removed since 1987 as the spare still had the nibs on the tread. I put the damaged wheel in the loader and continued on my way after topping off the spare with air.

 

[Migginsbros]

Great Job.

 

[glcaines]

Since I have to replace one tire, I'm thinking about replacing all 4 tires with Continental MPT80 tires, 12.5R20, 12 ply. The tires currently on the FLU419 are Michelin XL 12.5X20 which have 4 plies in the tread and 1 ply in the sidewall, which in my opinion isn't very tough. Does anyone have any experience with the Continental MPT 80 tires on a FLU419?

 

[rtrask]

Pass door fell off.. snapped hinge pins. Made a couple out of stainless . I’ll have to make a couple more for the slightly sagged drivers door

It seems like it is a common mod that they did in the field to cut the pins off and hinge the doors on the stubs. I bought replacement pins, I think from E.I. It was a trick to get the remains of the old pins out, but nothing a torch , 6 lb sledge, an a lot of determination couldn't deal with. I haven't had any issues with the E.I. pins, but do try to remember to oil them regularly.

I have I think an unrelated (maybe) issue with my passenger door. It will not stay latched. Now that I think of it, this issue started right after I replaced the hinge pins. Full disclosure I have not gotten serious about fixing it, but I have tried to adjust the latch a couple of times. The little half moon latch just does not go past the tipping point to hold it shut. Right now I am holding it shut with a couple of zip ties. I also somehow lost the driver side door handle. Kind of a pain, but other issues are higher on my list.

 

[The FLU farm]

Since I have to replace one tire, I'm thinking about replacing all 4 tires with Continental MPT80 tires, 12.5R20, 12 ply. The tires currently on the FLU419 are Michelin XL 12.5X20 which have 4 plies in the tread and 1 ply in the sidewall, which in my opinion isn't very tough. Does anyone have any experience with the Continental MPT 80 tires on a FLU419?

I don't even want to think about what those would cost.

Unless you buy a set of well aged surplus ones. Okay, so they may not have aged well, but they are usually aged.